Installing the Comp stage 3 cams.
#1
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Installing the Comp stage 3 cams.
I heard you need a special tool to install the valve springs for the cam swap. Other than that, you can do it yourself. I will get a fellow motor head to get it done.
Is the tool or tools you need specific to the 3V motor or will any Ford tool work???
just trying to save about 500 bucks.
Is the tool or tools you need specific to the 3V motor or will any Ford tool work???
just trying to save about 500 bucks.
#2
Join Date: February 2, 2006
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I didn't use any 3v specific tools.
#4
I'm also interested in this question, I'd like to install the package as soon as my warranty is up.
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I will get mine from Bama chips, since my tune was orginally with them and I really like the way Doug has treated me. he is good people.
It is a lot more doable if I can do the install and not pay to get it done. I would eventuallly get a dyno tune to squeeze the most out of it.
It is a lot more doable if I can do the install and not pay to get it done. I would eventuallly get a dyno tune to squeeze the most out of it.
#6
I will get mine from Bama chips, since my tune was orginally with them and I really like the way Doug has treated me. he is good people.
It is a lot more doable if I can do the install and not pay to get it done. I would eventuallly get a dyno tune to squeeze the most out of it.
It is a lot more doable if I can do the install and not pay to get it done. I would eventuallly get a dyno tune to squeeze the most out of it.
And you MUST get a tune afterwords. Your a/f will be VERY lean.
Manuals are here: http://www.dubaimustangclub.com/file...ICLE%20REPAIR/
My stage 3s are in, and I just dropped it off at my tuner's to get everything tweaked and dynoed for the before/after comparison.
John
#8
If you're asking me, yes. Like I said, I'm no stranger to motors and modding (I'm 49 ), and my 20 year old is a mechanic and built TWO foxbodies, but we decided to have him shadow one of his coworkers who has done cam/spring swaps in 4.6ls before. The guy worked a few hours a day for 5 days to get it all done.
Based on what he learned, we're going to swap out my cams in the '97 GT (but NOT the springs or retainers) so we get some experience with these motors. Like the other guy said, you don't NEED the specialized tools, but this experience proved they can help.
Yeah man, save up the $800 for labor. If that seems steep ($1600 for the cams/springs/retainers and labor), then consider alternatives to the ~20hp elsewhere.
I'll post before and after numbers Friday or Saturday on this and a few other forums.
John
Based on what he learned, we're going to swap out my cams in the '97 GT (but NOT the springs or retainers) so we get some experience with these motors. Like the other guy said, you don't NEED the specialized tools, but this experience proved they can help.
Yeah man, save up the $800 for labor. If that seems steep ($1600 for the cams/springs/retainers and labor), then consider alternatives to the ~20hp elsewhere.
I'll post before and after numbers Friday or Saturday on this and a few other forums.
John
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My friend and I did the install in three days. And we hit a few large snags along the way. Including breaking one of the VVT gears. We did another install of comp 1's in an 05 and it took 4 hours and this was with some BS and drinking going on. The job is not hard, but it is tedious. We used a spring compressor that my friend had used on 2v's and 4v's and simply used a screw driver to keep the chain in place. Without using compressed air you have to rotate the motor while doing the springs to make sure you are at top dead center so as to not drop a valve. The springs and keepers and retainers are a biotch. I would recommend going and buying some grease, a little magnet that can be used to get the keepers on and off, and I would also buy some extra keepers, chances are you might drop one. THIS IS NOT A JOB FOR SOMEONE WITHOUT ANY CAM KNOWLEDGE. I had 0 but my friend had done multiple 2v and 4v cam swaps which are more difficult due to having to degree in the cams. I definitely think that it's a two man job, due to the fact that it really helps to have one guy on one side of the car keeping the springs compressed while the other guy puts the keepers back in.
As far as a tune...I dropped mine in and went. No codes were thrown and my car ran fine. Now a tune would have definitely optimized the performance of the car, but it didn't hurt not having one. Other people may have more knowledge on that than me, but I'm just sharing my experience.
If I can be anymore help feel free to call me at 940-636-0943 as I've been involved in two cam swaps in 3v's and have one more lined up soon. I can also put you in contact with my friend that helped me do the swap as he's far more knowledgeable about mod motors than I am.
As far as a tune...I dropped mine in and went. No codes were thrown and my car ran fine. Now a tune would have definitely optimized the performance of the car, but it didn't hurt not having one. Other people may have more knowledge on that than me, but I'm just sharing my experience.
If I can be anymore help feel free to call me at 940-636-0943 as I've been involved in two cam swaps in 3v's and have one more lined up soon. I can also put you in contact with my friend that helped me do the swap as he's far more knowledgeable about mod motors than I am.
#10
Yep, not for the faint of heart!
John
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Ok, One more question..........Comp has a stage 3 pn 127300 or a pn 127350 for sale. Doug at Bama says the 127350 is designed for blower cars and has a rough idle. I would love to have a rough idle (old school style) but would it work on a Non blower car ok and still give you atleast the same performance as the non blower designed cam?
Anyone??
Anyone??
#14
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I went with the Stage 4's which I believe are not blower cams, but I'm running a blower with them. I also loved them when I was running N/A. You've got 4.10's in your car so you should get into that power band quick and enjoy them. If you get it tuned your tuner can drop the idle rpm and it will lope more.
#15
Ok, One more question..........Comp has a stage 3 pn 127300 or a pn 127350 for sale. Doug at Bama says the 127350 is designed for blower cars and has a rough idle. I would love to have a rough idle (old school style) but would it work on a Non blower car ok and still give you atleast the same performance as the non blower designed cam?
Anyone??
Anyone??
John
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John if you have them drop your idle rpm you should notice some difference.
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