After work I stopped by the auto hobby shop on base and changed my oil and put in my BMR adjustable UCA. It was going smooth untill I realized that I HAD to lower the fuel tank no matter what.

But I got it all settled out and its in now. Granted I dont feel a diff, because the LCA's got rid of the wheel hop, but this will help me get my pinion angle when I lower it and get a solid d/s.

 

I agree, that's a pretty good mod, especially for future upgrades.

 

man I didn't know you had to mess with the gas tank to put one of those on. Sounds like a drag.

 

What is the spec for the pinion angle? I'm getting the BMR LCAs and adjustable upper myself.

John

 

Factory spec is pinion down 0.55 deg , but I think that is confusing and does not tell the whole story. Generally you want less than 2 degrees between the pinion and the driveshaft, pinion down relative to the drive shaft. Same apples to trans to driveshaft. drive shaft down 1 - 2 degrees relative to the transmission.

 

I checked mine and its at .50 now with the Spyder shaft so it will be the same when I get the UAC in next week.

 

Is the angle measured with the car sitting on the ground under it's own weight? I assume it is, just trying to make sure. Anyone have a write-up on installation of LCAs? Installing BMR LCAs this December.

 

Wheels on the ground, at least a half a tank of gas, and something representing your weight in the driver seat. This will give you the best measurements and settings.

I have not checked, but check Taco Bills list of DIY's. I think the only thing he has left alone and not documented modifying is the 12V accessory outlet on the dash.

 

I checked that write-up a few times. I'm either not reading it right, or the LCA installation isn't there. I'm sure I can figure it out. Maybe I'll post a documentation?? Haha.

 

Only hint I can give you is only change one side at a time and torque to factory spec's. Preferrably new nuts and bolts. There is a write up out there, saw it not that long ago.

 

Make it easy on yourself... As was mentioned by RadBOSS, do one side at a time, and use new hardware. You'll want to set the car up on jackstands front and rear, and keep the jack handy for the rear axle. Put the axle under load, until JUST before the car floats off the jackstand, before you drop your factory LCA. Once you get one end loose, the other is simple to take apart. You'll have a little fight with the parking brake cable (which is threaded through the stock LCA), but not a real big deal. Assuming that your new LCAs are poly bushed, pre-lube them, then get one end lined up. I did the front first, and then just used the jack to move the axle around until the LCA drops into the right spot, and slip the bolt through. A little shove with a foot is all it takes to move the axle around to get things lined up. For final torquing, I would put the car on a drive-on lift like an alignment lift, or put the car up on ramps on all four corners. Tightening the bolts to spec is critical. 148 lb-ft, is the spec, IIRC. Once they are torqued, lube them up with a manual grease gun, then do a quick visual inspection, paying particular attention to the location of the rear springs in the spring wells. There have been cases of the rear springs being misaligned due to changes in the suspension geometry, particularly with lowering springs.

THEN take the car for a ginger test drive, listening for new clunks or squeeks, and re-check the torque on the mount bolts. Once all is good, drive it like you stole it!! Offset box wrenches in 18 and 22MM make life easy doing this install...

 

Here you go...

http://www.2005stang.com/gallery/alb...%20install.doc

http://www.2005stang.com/gallery/alb...tall%20UCA.doc

 

Thanks, Alex and Dave!

 

LCA's are a synch to install. UCA, well now that I know how to do it, it's not so bad.