Installed a Coast driveshaft tonight
Mach 1 Member
Joined: July 22, 2007
Posts: 704
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From: "SW" Iowa
Rich: Halloween Picture
Rich: Just have to share this one from twenty years ago! Love that great picture of Miss Elvira. We used to have a life sized cut out of her just like that, for our front picture window display on Halloween!! Then it was kind of like the Old Man's leg lamp in "The Christmas Story". My Lady thought it was not in the best of taste for the little kiddies coming up for their candies. So she asked me to "Just please retire it"! My then ten year old twin sons said "Aw Mom come on, it's too cool". So Miss Elvira went up in the attic for years. Until we moved, after our kids all grew up!! I then gave her away to the next generation.. 
Thanks for that memory!! CalStang
Thanks for that memory!! CalStang
Team Mustang Source
Joined: January 30, 2004
Posts: 2,298
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From: Tampa FL
FWIW, I concur with the above accolades for a 1-piece aluminum DS. I've had one on my machine for about the past 3 months or so and put roughly 1800 miles on it. It definitely spins up faster through the gears, especially at WOT going from 2nd to 3rd - woo hoo! It really brings the 4.10's to life 
Last edited by MTAS; Oct 22, 2008 at 09:02 AM.
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Joined: May 12, 2008
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what is the cost for one of these installed? I could do it.. I want a true one piece no adapter design... Is there one out there where you can unbolt the stock 2 piece and bolt right up the one piece? anyone know a place around Dallas that would do this? With is mod I think I can go 13.1 or so with just these 3 mods.
Getting my Coast DS installed this weekend, can't wait!
Bullitt Member
Joined: September 8, 2009
Posts: 282
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From: Santa Barbara, California
+1 on the Coast Drive shaft. I have had mine on a couple weeks now. They claim it weighs 16 LBs. Down from the stock one of 45 Lbs. Coasts uses the stock Pinion Flange with an aluminum adapter plate. No trouble with the ebrake cable anchor if the car is not lowered.
It is rotating mass here. Which means to accelerate you must also spin up the shaft. With my gears and wheels to about 5600 RPM at 120 MPH. The aluminum shaft is only 1/3rd of the mass of the stock part. So what ever torque the stock shaft required to get it spinning, the aluminum one only require 1/3 of it. The extra is freed up to accelerate the car. Coast Claims their shaft frees up 14 foot pounds of torque and 16 Hp and show a dyno run graph to back it up. But then a dyno shows acceleration. I am sure that if speed were constant and torque demands were increased as in climbing a grade, that increase would vanish.
The spinning shaft retains energy as well. So it can be reused coasting the car as in a fly wheel effect. But it will also be a liability in slowing the car down with the brakes as that rotating mass has to be stopped.
So far I have not experienced a down side to the aluminum drive shaft.
It is rotating mass here. Which means to accelerate you must also spin up the shaft. With my gears and wheels to about 5600 RPM at 120 MPH. The aluminum shaft is only 1/3rd of the mass of the stock part. So what ever torque the stock shaft required to get it spinning, the aluminum one only require 1/3 of it. The extra is freed up to accelerate the car. Coast Claims their shaft frees up 14 foot pounds of torque and 16 Hp and show a dyno run graph to back it up. But then a dyno shows acceleration. I am sure that if speed were constant and torque demands were increased as in climbing a grade, that increase would vanish.
The spinning shaft retains energy as well. So it can be reused coasting the car as in a fly wheel effect. But it will also be a liability in slowing the car down with the brakes as that rotating mass has to be stopped.
So far I have not experienced a down side to the aluminum drive shaft.
Thus if you are braking with the car in-gear, I would expect the car to slow down a little quicker with the aluminum DS.
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Joined: October 9, 2007
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I trust that you are referring to the stock DS in this statement--as the heavier shaft is similarly harder to decelerate as it is to accelerate. The heavier the shaft, the more energy is retained.
Thus if you are braking with the car in-gear, I would expect the car to slow down a little quicker with the aluminum DS.
Thus if you are braking with the car in-gear, I would expect the car to slow down a little quicker with the aluminum DS.
Last edited by 2k7gtcs; Nov 6, 2009 at 01:56 PM.
Installed DS today, feels great! Didn't beat down hump or move ebrake cable, we'll see what happens 
I did have to turn my MGW shifter back in to about 6 turns "out" to get comfortable clearance between the shifter block and the boot on the DS.
I did have to turn my MGW shifter back in to about 6 turns "out" to get comfortable clearance between the shifter block and the boot on the DS.
Thread Starter
Team Mustang Source
Joined: December 12, 2004
Posts: 5,801
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From: NorCal
I think you will be happy. 
Did you install a safety loop? I didn't but then decided that I should and then added the CHE loop. It can be put on the car with the driveshaft in place. I like the CHE loop better than the BMR loop that I had on the Spydershaft.
I hammered down the hump because it was easy to do but didn't mess with the e-brake cable. I have never had any issues with the cable since the shaft has been on the car.
Did you install a safety loop? I didn't but then decided that I should and then added the CHE loop. It can be put on the car with the driveshaft in place. I like the CHE loop better than the BMR loop that I had on the Spydershaft.
I hammered down the hump because it was easy to do but didn't mess with the e-brake cable. I have never had any issues with the cable since the shaft has been on the car.
I think you will be happy.
Did you install a safety loop? I didn't but then decided that I should and then added the CHE loop. It can be put on the car with the driveshaft in place. I like the CHE loop better than the BMR loop that I had on the Spydershaft.
I hammered down the hump because it was easy to do but didn't mess with the e-brake cable. I have never had any issues with the cable since the shaft has been on the car.
Did you install a safety loop? I didn't but then decided that I should and then added the CHE loop. It can be put on the car with the driveshaft in place. I like the CHE loop better than the BMR loop that I had on the Spydershaft.
I hammered down the hump because it was easy to do but didn't mess with the e-brake cable. I have never had any issues with the cable since the shaft has been on the car.
Glad to hear about no issues w/ clearance...my car is lowered w/ the FRPP springs. I'll check up on it in a week.
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Joined: October 9, 2007
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That's good to know. I want to do this mod and my car is lowered with FRPP springs and I've got the MGW shifter.
