GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

I got a stiffer shifter for pennies!

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Old 6/7/05, 08:22 PM
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“If you fix your brand new Mustang with a couple of nails and a hose clamp…You just might be a redneck!”

This mod is pretty backwoods, but it works!

First, let me say that one of these days I do plan on replacing my manual shifter, probably with a Hurst. Until then, I have found a very inexpensive way to remove a lot of the slop that is inherent to the Mustang shifter. It was very easy to do and I was very surprised at how much this changed the feel of the shifter, for the better.

Here’s what I did:

1.Detached shifter boot from shifter handle and unscrewed and removed shifter handle.

2.Removed shifter boot. At this point in the process it looked like photo #1. There is a rubber insulator between the two parts of the shifter handle. This is where a lot of the shifter “sloppiness” exists.

3.I drove two 5/8” long ribbed nails (shown in photo #2) into the insulator at approximately 5 and 7 o’clock. (A flat punch made this job much easier.) The nails needed to fit tight to work correctly. Photo #3 shows the nails inserted into the insulator.

4.I then placed a small hose clamp on the shifter and against the nails (shown in photo #4). This is just a little insurance to help keep the nails from working themselves loose.

5.Replaced the shifter boot and shifter handle.

This is far from being a replacement shifter, but it will hold me over until I afford the Hurst. The best part is the cost and the ease of installation. It cost almost nothing and took about 15 minutes to complete.
Old 6/7/05, 08:58 PM
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Thats good thinking Phil Steeda has some replacement bushings that tighten it up but by the time you ship just them, you've got $15./20 .
Old 6/7/05, 09:17 PM
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Originally posted by LimeGT@June 7, 2005, 9:25 PM
“If you fix your brand new Mustang with a couple of nails and a hose clamp…You just might be a redneck!”

This mod is pretty backwoods, but it works!

First, let me say that one of these days I do plan on replacing my manual shifter, probably with a Hurst. Until then, I have found a very inexpensive way to remove a lot of the slop that is inherent to the Mustang shifter. It was very easy to do and I was very surprised at how much this changed the feel of the shifter, for the better.

Here’s what I did:

1.Detached shifter boot from shifter handle and unscrewed and removed shifter handle.

2.Removed shifter boot. At this point in the process it looked like photo #1. There is a rubber insulator between the two parts of the shifter handle. This is where a lot of the shifter “sloppiness” exists.

3.I drove two 5/8” long ribbed nails (shown in photo #2) into the insulator at approximately 5 and 7 o’clock. (A flat punch made this job much easier.) The nails needed to fit tight to work correctly. Photo #3 shows the nails inserted into the insulator.

4.I then placed a small hose clamp on the shifter and against the nails (shown in photo #4). This is just a little insurance to help keep the nails from working themselves loose.

5.Replaced the shifter boot and shifter handle.

This is far from being a replacement shifter, but it will hold me over until I afford the Hurst. The best part is the cost and the ease of installation. It cost almost nothing and took about 15 minutes to complete.
:scratch: I don't get it. How's that help? (it's not that I don't believe you - I just have no idea what's going on as I've never owed a stick before and don't know much about cars anyway - althought I'm learning; just curious)
Old 6/7/05, 09:40 PM
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I guess you nailed it!
Old 6/8/05, 08:01 AM
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Git-R-Done!
Old 6/8/05, 08:06 AM
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Originally posted by MaverickMLFD371@June 8, 2005, 10:04 AM
Git-R-Done!
Ditto!
Old 6/8/05, 04:40 PM
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Originally posted by ILikeBond@June 7, 2005, 11:20 PM
:scratch: I don't get it. How's that help? (it's not that I don't believe you - I just have no idea what's going on as I've never owed a stick before and don't know much about cars anyway - althought I'm learning; just curious)
I don't claim to be anything more that a weekend mechanic, but here is my explanation:

The steel rod part of the shifter that connects to the handle on top and to the shift mechanism on the bottom, is basically two pieces. Between the two pieces is the rubber insulator. It was probably designed to minimize vibration and noise and the make the shifter more comfortable. It also gives it a vague and floppy feel IMO. The little nails 'push' the two pieces together to form one, sort of. I haven't noticed any increase in vibration or noise and it is more accurate, even if just slightly. Very important for that 2-3 shift.

It's good to be curious, ask questions and you will learn.
Old 6/8/05, 07:46 PM
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Rednecks...



Sean
Old 6/10/05, 09:32 PM
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I don't think I have ever see a rednecks fix over the heads of a city boy but I see its true. Rednecks ROLL ON.
Old 6/10/05, 09:35 PM
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so the clamp doesnt hold the nails in place, in just prevents them form comming UP and out? or does it actually strap them to the shift rod?
Old 6/11/05, 02:27 AM
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Is it just me or is it almost impossible to miss the 2-3 shift anyway?


Its like 6" at the most!

I'm not the greatest driver in the world, but I'd have to say you would almost have to go out of your way to miss a shift with the stock 5 speed shifter.

Call me crazy but I like it just the way it is
Old 6/11/05, 05:31 AM
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Originally posted by idobson@June 11, 2005, 3:30 AM
I'm not the greatest driver in the world, but I'd have to say you would almost have to go out of your way to miss a shift with the stock 5 speed shifter.
I have missed 2-3 once, but it was a big one, right up around redline. I blame the two drinks in the cup holder, or maybe I'm just not good.
Old 6/11/05, 01:54 PM
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Originally posted by Mongoose@June 10, 2005, 8:35 PM
I don't think I have ever see a rednecks fix over the heads of a city boy but I see its true. Rednecks ROLL ON.
I Rednecked my shifter too! I bought a Hurst T handle that fits late model Mustangs. The threads are just right for my Steeda Tri Ax. Then I used a combination of washers, jam nuts, and a piece of copper house plumbing to adapt the boot to the shift handle! Works fine, looks ok. Im in the process of buying a shift handle off FleaBay now. Will do a fancier job of fabricating and will get it rechromed. Then Ill have a nice chrome T handle and a chrome stick as well.
Old 6/11/05, 07:09 PM
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Originally posted by Redfire1@June 11, 2005, 1:57 PM
I Rednecked my shifter too! I bought a Hurst T handle that fits late model Mustangs. The threads are just right for my Steeda Tri Ax. Then I used a combination of washers, jam nuts, and a piece of copper house plumbing to adapt the boot to the shift handle! Works fine, looks ok. Im in the process of buying a shift handle off FleaBay now. Will do a fancier job of fabricating and will get it rechromed. Then Ill have a nice chrome T handle and a chrome stick as well.
That looks awsume..................aaaaaaaaaaah the ole knuckle busters .
Old 6/11/05, 08:11 PM
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Originally posted by emperorjordan@June 10, 2005, 11:38 PM
so the clamp doesnt hold the nails in place, in just prevents them form comming UP and out? or does it actually strap them to the shift rod?
You are correct! The clamp is only there to insure that the nails do not move. I don't know for sure if they would, but a little insurance is always a good idea.
Old 6/27/05, 12:11 PM
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Originally posted by LimeGT@June 7, 2005, 8:25 PM
“If you fix your brand new Mustang with a couple of nails and a hose clamp…You just might be a redneck!”

This mod is pretty backwoods, but it works!

First, let me say that one of these days I do plan on replacing my manual shifter, probably with a Hurst. Until then, I have found a very inexpensive way to remove a lot of the slop that is inherent to the Mustang shifter. It was very easy to do and I was very surprised at how much this changed the feel of the shifter, for the better.

Here’s what I did:

1.Detached shifter boot from shifter handle and unscrewed and removed shifter handle.

2.Removed shifter boot. At this point in the process it looked like photo #1. There is a rubber insulator between the two parts of the shifter handle. This is where a lot of the shifter “sloppiness” exists.

3.I drove two 5/8” long ribbed nails (shown in photo #2) into the insulator at approximately 5 and 7 o’clock. (A flat punch made this job much easier.) The nails needed to fit tight to work correctly. Photo #3 shows the nails inserted into the insulator.

4.I then placed a small hose clamp on the shifter and against the nails (shown in photo #4). This is just a little insurance to help keep the nails from working themselves loose.

5.Replaced the shifter boot and shifter handle.

This is far from being a replacement shifter, but it will hold me over until I afford the Hurst. The best part is the cost and the ease of installation. It cost almost nothing and took about 15 minutes to complete.
Are there any tricks or problems in detaching/removing and replacing the boot? Thanks, Dave
Old 6/27/05, 03:55 PM
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Originally posted by davids2toys@June 27, 2005, 2:14 PM
Are there any tricks or problems in detaching/removing and replacing the boot? Thanks, Dave
Not really. The boot connects to the console with little tabs that snap on. Push the edge of the boot gently towards the shifter handle and you will feel that edge come loose. Once the first edge is loose, the others come off easily. The top of the boot connects to the shifter handle itself. The handle has a rim or indentation that keeps the boot in place. Gently pull the boot away from the handle before removing the handle itself. No tools are needed to remove the handle and boot. Hope this helps and Good luck!
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