GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

***HURST SHIFTER***

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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 12:04 PM
  #41  
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Originally posted by pjdami@December 27, 2005, 12:21 AM
Glad it worked out for you! Did you use the Hurst poly bushings or the stock EPDM bushings?

I made a gasket today to go between the chrome stick and the base. I have a hunch that noise is coming from this joint. The gasket is made out of 1/32 inch rubber fiber material and I found it at the local auto parts store. For good measure, I also used medium strenght blue loctite for the two screws as these have a tendancy to loosen up a little and cause a rattle.

Didn't get to drive the car after this mod but plan on giving a report tomorrow.
Cool...cant wait to hear your mod review
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 01:06 PM
  #42  
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Originally posted by davids2toys@December 27, 2005, 2:07 PM
Cool...cant wait to hear your mod review

So far so good

I drove the car around this morning and could not detect the rattle at 3,000 rpm anymore when accelerating hard

I approached redline a few times and only heard a very faint rattle once (had to turn the radio off) in second gear above 5,000 rpms. I would say that it is a 90% reduction in noise.

I think the way it comes stock with the metal to metal grooves makes for a difficult fit. I may try a double thickness gasket next because it is possible that since the material is only 1/32 inch thick that when I tightened the bolts in the handle that the grooves cut into the gasket and there may still be some metal to metal contact.

Overall though very easy to try out for $5 of gasket material that I bought from Advanced Auto Parts. I also recommend the blue medium strength loctite as I noticed a few weeks ago when these bolts were loose the rattle was more evident.
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 01:25 PM
  #43  
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This is good info guys. Thanks allot. I've got one I need to install as well and all these little tips help.
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 02:29 PM
  #44  
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Originally posted by pjdami@December 27, 2005, 2:09 PM
So far so good

I drove the car around this morning and could not detect the rattle at 3,000 rpm anymore when accelerating hard

I approached redline a few times and only heard a very faint rattle once (had to turn the radio off) in second gear above 5,000 rpms. I would say that it is a 90% reduction in noise.

I think the way it comes stock with the metal to metal grooves makes for a difficult fit. I may try a double thickness gasket next because it is possible that since the material is only 1/32 inch thick that when I tightened the bolts in the handle that the grooves cut into the gasket and there may still be some metal to metal contact.

Overall though very easy to try out for $5 of gasket material that I bought from Advanced Auto Parts. I also recommend the blue medium strength loctite as I noticed a few weeks ago when these bolts were loose the rattle was more evident.
Sounds good, but I think you want positive engagement of the teeth to hold position.
I was thinking of using a bicycle inner tube but I was afraid of not engaging the teeth. It is hard to believe this vib is coming from there unless it was loose...maybe I need to check mine out. Do both boots need to come off, or just the top one, I dont remember, duh!
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 03:15 PM
  #45  
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Originally posted by davids2toys@December 27, 2005, 4:32 PM
Sounds good, but I think you want positive engagement of the teeth to hold position.
I was thinking of using a bicycle inner tube but I was afraid of not engaging the teeth. It is hard to believe this vib is coming from there unless it was loose...maybe I need to check mine out. Do both boots need to come off, or just the top one, I dont remember, duh!
Well, in my case, it looks like the vibration was coming from the metal to metal contact between the base and the chrome stick. Since two bolts are used, I'm not sure what the need for the "grooves" on the stick. Feels solid with the gasket in there. Not sure what you mean by the need to engage the teeth. If anything, the grooves / teeth have bit into the gasket.

You need to pull the top leather boot (I didn't even unscrew the white ****) and you can slide the inner rubber boot down past the bolt for access. No need to remove the bottom inner rubber boot. This is a 15 minute job including cutting the gasket.

Yeah, if the bolts come loose, it will rattle but you will also feel the "slop" between the chrome stick and the base. I know it is strange but this has helped out my problem a lot. I would say it is neglible now. The weird thing is that I originally didn't have a problem but developed one over time.

Like I said, so far so good, I'm about to go driving again. 75 degs down here and a pretty day.
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 06:53 PM
  #46  
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Originally posted by pjdami@December 27, 2005, 4:18 PM
Well, in my case, it looks like the vibration was coming from the metal to metal contact between the base and the chrome stick. Since two bolts are used, I'm not sure what the need for the "grooves" on the stick. Feels solid with the gasket in there. Not sure what you mean by the need to engage the teeth. If anything, the grooves / teeth have bit into the gasket.

You need to pull the top leather boot (I didn't even unscrew the white ****) and you can slide the inner rubber boot down past the bolt for access. No need to remove the bottom inner rubber boot. This is a 15 minute job including cutting the gasket.

Yeah, if the bolts come loose, it will rattle but you will also feel the "slop" between the chrome stick and the base. I know it is strange but this has helped out my problem a lot. I would say it is neglible now. The weird thing is that I originally didn't have a problem but developed one over time.

Like I said, so far so good, I'm about to go driving again. 75 degs down here and a pretty day.
Very good, keep us posted, I wont be doing this for a while ...my car is sleeping for the winter so there is no rush, but I might do it for the heck of it.
Come to think about it, my vib was not there either, it came over time, but the handle does NOT feel loose!
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Old Dec 28, 2005 | 07:43 PM
  #47  
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From: Pasadena, MD (AKA The Dena)
Originally posted by DENVER05GT@October 31, 2005, 12:37 AM
Since were all talking about the Hurst install, I have another question. How did everyone handle the rubber boot at the top?

The boot doesn't really attach to the Hurst shaft like it does on the stock shifter. The stock shaft is round and larger in diameter. The Hurst is more of square shape and not as large. I was really only able to attach the boot by placing it over the area where the two torx bolts that hold the top part of the shaft attach. Is this how everyone else did this?

Denver,

I know exactly what your talking about. I was worrying about the same thing. It was also a PITA to get the bottom of that boot to fit correctly around the hole like it was supposed to. I ended up leaving the top just exactly like you did except I got it to fit almost perfectly in between the two hex head nuts. Seems more stable like that.

Also did anyone have any problems with that one little metal clip on the rear mounting bolts trying to take off the stock shifter. I had all the nuts and bolts off in a jiffy ( Thank the heavens for a brother with power tools ) but that clip was a pain in the butt.

Anyways it took me about 1 1/2 hrs to get my shifter in today after work and it was worth every penny. I went on a test ride and everything worked great. I love the way it sounds and feels. I want to thank everybody for there tips especially Paul for the gasket tip, I picked up my gasket and locktite tonight before install and it only took a couple seconds to cut one out. I am keeping a second cut out in the glove box just incase I get that vibration then I will try and double up.

Thanks again guys..

Book
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 03:05 PM
  #48  
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I have the Hurst shifter and love it also. I do get some metallic sounding vibration above 5K RPM, but no problems otherwise. I initially experienced some tightness going into gear, but this worked itself out in literally a couple of days of shifting in traffic.

Some people have questioned why people bother with the Hurst if there are problems with notchiness or rattle. There's a couple of reasons I did it. First, I don't find the shifter to be overly notchy once broken in a bit. It's a more precise, mechanical feel that makes shifting more fun for me. Second, I have a white GT with dark charcoal interior and dash upgrade, so I like the look of the chromed handle with white shift ball. Third, I rarely powershift, and if I do, it's 1st to 2nd gear only. Power shifting into 3rd can be done with the Hurst, or any shifter I've used, but it's a great way to miss a shift and/or tear the crap out of your differential. Finally, nostalgia.
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 03:18 PM
  #49  
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Wow this thread has been reserected from the grave...

Just an update: I haven't done anything to my shifter since I had my vibration issues. It's been at least 2 months since it vibrated on me. It just went away!!!

I love my Hurst now more than I did before, especially with the 4.10s!!
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 03:31 PM
  #50  
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My steeda tri-ax broke in after a while too
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 04:04 PM
  #51  
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I wanted to give an update too. On Saturday I decided to go under the car to see how the nut on the shifter linkage was doing in case it was loosening up. Well it was still exactly like I had installed it with the Locktite. While I was down there I got my deep 10 mm socket and pulled both 10 mm nuts and the rear bracket and replaced the rear polyurethane bushing with the stock EPDM bushing. I kept the front polyurethane Hurst bushing in because replacement of that bushing would necessitate complete removal of the shifter since it was a press fit.

Results? I would approximate a 30 - 40 percent immediate less "notchy" feel to the shifter. The shifter had broken in before this but wow just changing the rear bushing back to stock really makes the shift effort perfect in my opinion. Still firmer than stock but way less firmer than with the Hurst bushing. In my opinion, it just feels perfect now to me and when you shift from 1st to 2nd the shifter doesn't "hesitate" as much at the neutral position. A very easy mod to do if you can get your car up on the ramps again.

As far as vibration issues, I still have a very slight vibration that has returned at 3,000 rpms. If I grab the shifter and hold it going through these rpms it doesn't do it. A mechanic friend of mine recommended high temp silicone instead of the gasket between the chrome stick and the shifter base. He also recommended that I use a "turkey injector" syringe type device to add petroleum jelly (vasoline) in the area below the rubber boot where the mechanical pivot point is to help dampen the ball joint there. I haven't tried this out yet.

S197GT glad to hear the vibration went away with you doing nothing at all. I don't drive my car around enough as it is only a weekend type car. Six months and my car still has < 1,800 miles on it.
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 04:39 PM
  #52  
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Let me know if you try out that mechanic's suggestions, pj. Be interested to see if they work. The only thing I have issue with is the rattle!
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 06:36 AM
  #53  
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bump
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 04:41 PM
  #54  
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No updates from me. The vibration seems to be getting less with time (weekend car only). I have read of a few members who said the vibration just went away given time so I'm seeing what happens.

The latest interesting thing though is that the updated Hurst instructions say to put the "offset" on the bottom of the shifter towards the driver's side (not the passenger's side like in Stoopy's previous thread). This is driving me nuts not knowing which way is correct.

There is a recent thread about this posted under "performance."

Hurst went through the trouble of changing the original instructions even though their customer support told forum members on the phone that the offset direction doesn't matter. Something fishy going on here.
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 05:29 PM
  #55  
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(pjdami @ February 6, 2006, 6:07 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
I wanted to give an update too. On Saturday I decided to go under the car to see how the nut on the shifter linkage was doing in case it was loosening up. Well it was still exactly like I had installed it with the Locktite. While I was down there I got my deep 10 mm socket and pulled both 10 mm nuts and the rear bracket and replaced the rear polyurethane bushing with the stock EPDM bushing. I kept the front polyurethane Hurst bushing in because replacement of that bushing would necessitate complete removal of the shifter since it was a press fit.

Results? I would approximate a 30 - 40 percent immediate less "notchy" feel to the shifter. The shifter had broken in before this but wow just changing the rear bushing back to stock really makes the shift effort perfect in my opinion. Still firmer than stock but way less firmer than with the Hurst bushing. In my opinion, it just feels perfect now to me and when you shift from 1st to 2nd the shifter doesn't "hesitate" as much at the neutral position. A very easy mod to do if you can get your car up on the ramps again.

As far as vibration issues, I still have a very slight vibration that has returned at 3,000 rpms. If I grab the shifter and hold it going through these rpms it doesn't do it. A mechanic friend of mine recommended high temp silicone instead of the gasket between the chrome stick and the shifter base. He also recommended that I use a "turkey injector" syringe type device to add petroleum jelly (vasoline) in the area below the rubber boot where the mechanical pivot point is to help dampen the ball joint there. I haven't tried this out yet.

S197GT glad to hear the vibration went away with you doing nothing at all. I don't drive my car around enough as it is only a weekend type car. Six months and my car still has < 1,800 miles on it.
[/b][/quote]

I may have to try this with the rear bushing [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img]
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 10:56 AM
  #56  
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Did the double gasket trick and I still have the vibration around 3000 rpm under accerleration, I will be going back to the stock rear bushing and give that a try. My offset is as I installed with the original instructions...has anybody swithed the offset to the drivers side, how about a review?
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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 10:54 AM
  #57  
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OMG, all the threads posted here after March 13 are gone...Oh Well, here is the latest update, and I am sorry for thjose who have not been following, who are not going to understand!

UPDATE:Hi Jim,
My last mail to you:
"Hi Jim, I got the shifter and installed it last night, I wont be able to
test drive it until the weather clears, hopefully tomorrow.
The only mistake in the directions is on the size of the jam nut for the
ball...it is not 9/16, it is 15mm.
What king of grease are you coating the bushings with from the factory, they
have something on them. I used Valvoline synthetic car grease, is this OK?
I put it in exactly as instructed except for the front bushing, I did what
we had talked about, I put the shoulder of the sleeve against the tranny,
and for the other side I used a washer exactly the same O.D.and thickness as
the shoulder of the sleeve from the factory, tightened it down real good,
this should simulate the 2 shoulder flanges that you originally designed
this shifter for.There was a tiny bit of play in the new shifter you sent
me( spherical ball), maybe a 64th, my shifter that I took out had at least
triple of that. That difference maybe what happens as the shifter breaks
in.My vibration problems were not there initially, it came on as time went
by...many others have reported the same thing.
I will let you know my progress, just wanted to let you know where I am at."

So this is how it went:
1st install/ no isolator/ Hurst bushings...still had vibration at 3000 rpm
and at 5000 rpm, but the intensity was cut in 1/2 vs. the old shifter, the
shifting was also improved.
2nd install/ installed the isolator/ Hurst bushings/...much improved,
vibration at 3000 rpm is GONE, and the vibration at 5000-5500 is much less
intense for sure, much more livable for sure, also seems to lesson with
increased heat.
3rd install/ isolator still installed/ Hurst front bushing, stock rear
bushing/... same livable vibration at approx 5000 rpm, shifting is easier
and smoother.

I will leave it in the 3rd configuration for now, but I would say that the
2nd configuration would be just fine also.I would assume that the 2 pieces
of rubber will wear as time goes on and if the stick is removed for any
reason they should be replaced, they deform a lot when tightening down on
them and I am sure the serrations will rip them up considerably and the vibe
will return.I actually think they should be a little denser for durability
sake, also may have taken the vibration away completely, don't know.How can
I get replacements for these when the time comes? I would definitely like
to try out that other mod you were telling me about that you are in the
process of producing.This isolator is a Band-Aid fix at best!
There are a few people watching and waiting to see what happens with this
experiment that we did, they have the same problem as me, what do you want
to do about these people? I told them I would ask you when I was done, I did
not think you wanted to get barraged with calls so I never did post your #
on the forum, people asked me and I told them we would look at the whole
thing after we see my results... so it is your call as to how you want to
handle it.Let me know and I will post it.
It is amazing that some people had no vibration at all.
As for my recommendations, I would include either a special washer or a
replacement 2 piece bushing set with your kit for the front mount, also
change the instructions to read flipping the bushing around if you were to
stay with the 1 metal bushing configuration and supply a special washer for
underneath the bolt head to simulate the flange that is missing.I would also
put torque values on every fastener in the install. Lots of people were
confused on how tight to tighten everything, Put a warning to only put
locktight on sparingly near the plastic sleeves in the offset swivel and to
also put loctight or supply new nuts for the rear 2 nuts since the locking
feature is no good after the first install from the factory. Last but not
least, on the offset swivel nut in the middle, I did not use the factory nut
because it chews up the plastic sleeves, I used a nyloc and a washer( same
dia as the plastic sleeve) and only tightened it up to SNUG!
Jim, I want to thank you for the great customer service by YOU only, I think
the procedure Hurst uses for customer service stinks and it is to bad I had
to write a nasty letter to get the great job you did for me, but you said
you are working at resolving that so I am happy there to, I hope it happens,
there is nothing worse for the customer who is having problems with a
product to have further frustration by not being able to get anywhere with
the retailer, very, very aggravating, and not good for word of mouth
advertising all.
Jim, again thank you for the help, I do appreciate it, if I can be of any
other assistance do not hesitate to contact me. I would also be willing to
test out any new products you may have in development, especially a new
shifter.
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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 11:07 AM
  #58  
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Here is the email trail with Lmperformance about this. Start reading from the bottom up:

Leon, I will try to keep this as short as possible, it is nice to see there
is a human being that gets hurt feelings under your rough non caring
exterior, this is what you portray, and that is the way I took you...you
never explained anything to me about any of your two word answers or our
very very short conversation on the phone. I honestly did not mean to insult
you at all, you really gave me no choice, especially after I tell you that
these two word communications are getting very annoying, and what do you do,
send me another 1 sentence email, and I did not even know what you were
talking about..that is why you got the comment about listening to you
customer, and the other thing you got insulted about, and I don't know why,
it is perfect true

" Your attitude on the phone was also not good. I have been perfectly nice
and professional with you, and have not been treated the same in return. Hey
, it is your reputation and your customer service"

...Ok, so where is the insult, I don't see it. Now the fact that you have
excellent customer service is you opinion, When I got this shifter it had a
damaged ball right out of the package, I called immediately, it took about
21/2 months to get a replacement, I was told it was on its way at least 4
times, I had to keep calling back over and over to tell them that it had not
arrived, for that matter, half the time I got either no answer or your
answering service during your normal business hours, to me this is not great
customer service.
As far as to why it is so late after the sale, I and many others are not
quitters or whiners and have been trying all kinds of tricks to get the bugs
out of this shifter, plus you had winter lapse of not driving the car for 3
months. Myself, and others were emailing Hurst about the problem, so
everybody was networking the problem, a few short weeks ago somebody
mentioned going to the retailer, he did and Brentspeed immediately sent him
a replacement shifter and also told him that Hurst has been having some
defects and problems, another guy called RPM, and I decided to get in
contact with you. I do agree with you though, it should be more on them to
make the problem right, but it should go thru the retailer , and the
retailer should be made aware of the problem so you don't get blind sided.
Now you also mentioned the links you read, that one you are referring to, I
did say you came off as clueless,(hardly an insult, you were!).. the other
comment "yeah that Leon is a real nincompoop if you ask me. I don't like
having to communicate with him." , I did not say this, reread the thread,
that was a reply to my comment about you being clueless!
As far as returning it, can you explain what an RMA# is, would I have to pay
the shipping? I asked you this before.You are saying that you would need the
shifter back before a new one could be sent..that sounds like at least a 2
week turnaround at best , if that shifter ball is any example of what I can
expect, that does not sound good at all to me...So this could mean having NO
car for weeks maybe months, do you think this is very good customer service,
not me.
Now Leon, I am sorry you got your feelings hurt, it really was not my
intention at all and I don't think you needed to take it that way, maybe if
you took a little accountability for the way things went down here, it would
sit a little better with you. My first email exchange with Hurst was
ridiculous, the guy answered it and addressed nothing. I wrote a not so nice
email back and got an absolute excellent reply and a great follow up phone
conversation with a Hurst manager, and now we have a great relationship,
because he has chosen to do the right thing and provide great customer
service. It could have gone the same way with you, but you have chosen this
path, so be it! I will copy and paste the series of emails we had. Read them
carefully and then tell me what you think.

My original email to Hurst:
> > "Dear Hurst,
> > I and many others on the themustangsource.com are having issues with
your
> > comp
> > plus shifter for the 05 Mustang GT. I got this shifter back in August,
and
> > at that time there were discrepancy's with the instructions, also there
is
> > an ongoing problem with vibration under acceleration between 3-4
thousand
> > rpms ands very notchy shifting requiring a lot of effort.
> > The discrepancy in the directions concerns the offset piece at the stick
> > bottom, that hooks up to the trans shifting rod, in your directions it
> says
> > to put the long side of the offset to the passenger side...that is
exactly
> > opposite that the original is hooked up, this also makes the trans rod
> > crooked. You have revised your directions on 12 05, these directions say
> to
> > do just the opposite, long side offset of the stick bottom now is being
> told
> > to put it towards the drivers side. when I try this in my car the new
way,
> > the serrations in nub are going toward the driver, if you were to put
the
> > stick there, it would rub up against the boot housing and, the curve
would
> > be going the wrong way. if you put the stick on the pass side, you would
> > have the serrations of the shifter stick, against the smooth side of the
> > nub. Did you modify your shifter to coincide with the new instructions?
> > Now as far as this vibration problem, it is in the stick, if you grab
the
> > stick, it will stop. I have tried everything, put the stock bushing in
the
> > back, then the stock bushing in the front, offset going both ways, yada,
> > yada, yada!
> > I have notice there is a little play up and down in the spherical ball
in
> > the middle, I have been hearing from people who bought from Brentspeed
> that
> > their was a defect and Hurst is replacing them, one guy got a
replacement
> > and it is still Vibrating.
> > I have tried calling recently and was on hold forever, I finally hung up
> > because I was killing my minutes on the cell phone . I had my brother
> (free
> > long distance)call so he could have someone call me, he waited a 1/2
hour,
> > finally got someone, they said would call me right back...I waited all
> > afternoon, NO CALL, that was 4 days ago. You should at least have a
voice
> > mail option so you could at least leave a message and call back #.
> > Anyway, I am reaching my wits end with this, I am totally frustrated and
> am
> > begging you for some answers and a resolution to these problems. Any
> > information will be greatly appreciated. I would find it much easier to
> talk
> > to a person about this, rather than email, is there a direct line or can
> you
> > call me? Thanks in advance Eagerly waiting your response....."
> >
> >
> > Hurst's response
> > "Solution:
> > The high performance short throw shifters have a lot shorter throw so it
> > will be harder to shift. You can make the throw easier by adding a
longer
> > stick but this will increase the throw. A thin piece of rubber will help
> > eliminate the noise. This should be installed bewtween the stick and the
> > shifter mechanism. Also any internal rail shifter will have some
vibration
> > as it rides inside the transmission. Also if the gear set in the rear
> > differential was changed harmonics will also increase regardless of what
> or
> > which shifter you run. Thank you "

My Response

Dear Hurst Tech,
> > This email is about ticket number 137202. I copied and pasted my
original
> > email and your response below, to say that I am extremely unsatisfied
> would
> > be gross understatement. You never addressed the offset or the serration
> > issues..Hurst has been in the shifter game for a long time now..and I
> would
> > think I would get some better tech service or help from you. You
mentioned
> > about all internal rail shifters are going to have vibration, well, last
I
> > checked, the stock shifter is an internal rail shifter and I had NO
> > vibration at all, nothing! Also if you notice, the stock stick is
sitting
> in
> > sort of a barrel, I think this may be to absorb vibration, check it out.
> > You also mention about changing rear gears. I have not changed my rear
> gears
> > at all, in fact, I put down NO mods in your form letter with the
original
> > email to you. I do understand about the shifts requiring more
effort.Your
> > directions also say there should be 2 metal sleeves thru the poly
bushing
> in
> > the front of the shifter, I believe Ford made this 1 sleeve instead of 2
> > around June 2005, your new directions are still saying 2 metal sleeves,
so
> > which way do we put the shoulder on this one sleeve, towards the
> > transmission, or toward the head of the bolt.
> > The guys who are following your new directions( offset to the drivers
> side)
> > are ending up with the serrations on WRONG side of the nub. I did it
this
> > way now because I like how it located the transmission arm nice and
> > straight, so now I have the serrations of the stick against the smooth
> side
> > of the nub, in this configuration you get the smoothest shifts(
> transmission
> > arm is straight in line/ also, this is the configuration of the stock
> > shifter, not cocked), but the worst VIBRATION!
> > As far as the Vibration, I already made the rubber gasket, I have even
> > resorted to stuffing socks down into the rubber dust boot!!! This
actually
> > helped out in 1rst, 2nd and 3rd gear...but 4th still make lots of noise
> > I will paste just a few of the active links on this subject below. Can
you
> > please try to respond to my original email and try to address the real
> > issues this time, myself and many others would like some answers so we
can
> > be satisfied customers, if there is a problem with the earlier shifters
> such
> > as mine, can you send me a new one with pping label and I will
return
> > the old one.
> > If you would like to talk with me, I would gladly email you my phone
> number,
> > I want to clear this thing up.
> > If I cant get some sort of resolution this time, you will force me to
> > contact your corporate headquarters, and start some very active not
> > satisfied customer topics on all the mustang forums I belong to, Of
course
> I
> > really don't want to do this at all, so can you please be a great
customer
> > service company like CDC or Bamachips and other great companies out
> > there...Thanks
> >
> > http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index....pic=46945&st=0
> >
> > http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?sh...=32344&hl=hurst
> >
> > http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?sh...&hl=hurst&st=60
> >
> > http://www.mustangforums.com/m_1098137/mpa.../tm.htm#1179193
> >
> >Their response


David,
> > I'm sorry to hear about the problems you are having with the Hurst
> Comp/Plus
> > Shifter for your 2005 Mustang GT and I apologize for any inconvenience
> this
> > has caused you. Please forward me your telephone number and a convenient
> > time to call you so we can go over the problems you are having and get
> them
> > resolved.
> >
> > Regards,

MY Response

Today and tomorrow, day or evening 203-267-7605 Hm or 203-592-1296 cell,
> after weds the better time would be evenings. Thanks Jim, looking fwd to
> talking to you....................Dave

There response

Hello David,
> As we discussed yesterday, I'm sending you a new shifter today for your
2005
> Mustang GT. You will need to reuse your existing chrome plated stick and
> white **** which I hope isn't a problem for you. I also included an
> "isolator kit" with instructions on how to install it. As a suggestion,
> install the shifter without the isolator so you can see if you still have
a
> rattle/vibration problem. Like I told you on the phone, the isolator is
> really only a "band aid" and may or may not help the situation. The
bearing
> in this new shifter is definitely tight without any "play" in the stick,
so
> hopefully this shifter will make a difference. Let me know how everything
> goes and thanks for your understanding and patience in this matter.
>
> Regards,


My Response


Thanks Jim for all your help so far, no problem with the stick and ball, and
I understand about the band aid fix, that was my plan. The only thing I am
nor sure about is the front bushing and which way I will orientate the
shoulder on my one metal sleeve on the initial install, that is one thing
that is never addressed anywhere.
I will take notes, and note any corrections that should be made in the
instructions also.
I still think you should come up with an adapter plate for the rear mount to
be mounted to the tranny...just like the old days...lol, and as we discussed
yesterday, 2 metal sleeve for the front bushing.
Thanks again, and I will be in touch for sure, Dave


So this is my present situation Leon, I am waiting for the new shifter to
arrive, and will then give it a try, this is quite a different outcome than
dealing with you, dont you think., I dont have to ship anything back
immediately, nice conversation, etc,etc... you are also making the
assumption that I would want a different shifter, I absolutely have no
interest in a different shifter, especially since I have named my
car..."HURST GT". Also FYI, they have done some mods to the shifter from the
earlier model that I purchased from you
Leon, I am not a mind reader, I dont what you got going on your end..all i
know is how you treat me, your willingness to help your customer, your
attitude, etc, etc...If you meant well, I sure never saw it, sorry, maybe
next time you could convey that you really care to you customer, this is
called customer relations.

As far as your last paragragh:

"So here is what I will do, retract your statements and I will do the
return.
> I have done nothing but be upfront with you on this situation. I am not
> lying to you, you ARE the first person to tell me anything about these
> shifters. Did you happen to see our CHRISTIAN symbol on every page of our
> site ? We are a Christian based company and try to conduct ourselves
> accordingly. Threats are a sure way of not getting what you want. And
where
> have I insulted you or gave the impression I would do nothing, I told you
I
> was going to look into it and I DID. I ALSO DID THIS ON VACATION. I talked
> with my wholesaler to see what we could do FOR YOU on MY VACATION WITH MY
> FAMILY instead of waiting to get back from vacation. Now again how is this
> bad service ???? What I was able to do was do a swap with them for you
since
> your order is so old. So just fill out the form and I will get you an RMA#
> and you can send it in and we can swap it for another shifter, any brand
we
> carry and we can just charge you the difference if you get a different
type.
> This is what I have been working on while I was away. Sorry if I am being
a
> bit wordy but I was upset to see all the negative comments about
> LMPERFORMANCE and ME specifically..... How would you feel ????"

Thanks for the really great offer...NOT! You are not going to extort a
retraction out of me. It works like this Leon, you treat me right and I
treat you right, period.If you want a retraction earn it! You have not been
up front with me at all, you were mysterious and pretty much acted as though
i was bothering you and you were blowing me off. Whether you are a Christian
based company or not, means nothing to me, I don't even know why you are
bringing this up, all I can say to that is, maybe you should have acted more
Christian like then! Also, where did I threaten you, all I ever said was it
is your business and your reputation, and I guess you can do what you
want...hardly a threat at all, just the truth. when businesses back you into
a corner and don't act right all you can do is bad mouth them and hope that
the bad word of mouth advertising hurts them in sales and reputation. It
also helps consumers stick together and warn other consumers of bad
retailers...we on the Mustang sites try to look out for one and other and
steer people who share our hobby toward good products and good retailers
with great customer service. I will only put in the thread the truth, check
out how negative it started out with the Hurst people and how positive it is
now, look in the threads what the people are saying about Hurst now..much
much better.That is because they are doing the right thing and will reap the
rewards from their behavior...You know the old expression Leon " You reap
what you sow"
or how about this one" you catch more flies with honey than vinegar". Am I
making any sense to you at all, or am I just wasting my time here?

Thanks, Dave Whitman





----- Original Message -----
From: "LMPerformance Sales" <Sales@LMPerformance.com>
To: "'David Whitman'" <davids2toys@charter.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 8:59 AM
Subject: RE: Part Question


> Ok, I guess I will be more specific. BTW I do not like your tone either on
> this considering you ordered this so long ago and I am trying to do what
> HURST should have done in the first place. Manufacturing defects should be
> handled buy the manufacturer not the dealer. There should be a recall or
> something where they replace the shifter. I and my wholesaler are doing
this
> as a courtesy. I just got back from vacation and was overwhelmed since
then
> so sorry if I was short to answer your email as I have over 350 emails to
> answer.
>
> You have insulted me twice now in your emails: --- "I guess listening to
> your customer is not exactly your strong point is it!" and "your attitude
on
> the phone was also not good. I have been perfectly nice and professional
> with you, and have not been treated the same in return. Hey , it is your
> reputation and your customer service" --- and yes we do have excellent
> customer service, who else would do this after such a long delay in the
> problem from the order date. I am not here to mess you over I am trying to
> work with you but you take it as some sort of lapse in service.
>
> But anyway if you want to return it for another shifter you need to tell
me
> what brand. I do not think Hurst has changed their design on this one??
> Ignore the text on the return form as this is obviously not a return but a
> swap. No restock fee(unless its not a swap). I will have to wait for the
> shifter to go back until a new one is sent out.
>
> So in the return form put: 1) reason for return(so I have something to
give
> my wholesaler, 2) the part you want to swap it for, 3)... oh yeah just
read
> some posts from your links: "...I did email Leon at LMPerformance a week
> ago, also had a phone conversation, he was pretty clueless, " .... "yeah
> that Leon is a real nincompoop if you ask me. I don't like having to
> communicate with him."
>
> So here is what I will do, retract your statements and I will do the
return.
> I have done nothing but be upfront with you on this situation. I am not
> lying to you, you ARE the first person to tell me anything about these
> shifters. Did you happen to see our CHRISTIAN symbol on every page of our
> site ? We are a Christian based company and try to conduct ourselves
> accordingly. Threats are a sure way of not getting what you want. And
where
> have I insulted you or gave the impression I would do nothing, I told you
I
> was going to look into it and I DID. I ALSO DID THIS ON VACATION. I talked
> with my wholesaler to see what we could do FOR YOU on MY VACATION WITH MY
> FAMILY instead of waiting to get back from vacation. Now again how is this
> bad service ???? What I was able to do was do a swap with them for you
since
> your order is so old. So just fill out the form and I will get you an RMA#
> and you can send it in and we can swap it for another shifter, any brand
we
> carry and we can just charge you the difference if you get a different
type.
> This is what I have been working on while I was away. Sorry if I am being
a
> bit wordy but I was upset to see all the negative comments about
> LMPERFORMANCE and ME specifically..... How would you feel ????
>
>
> Leon
> http://www.LMPerformance.com
>
> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: The information transmitted in this electronic
mail
> message is confidential and proprietary. Any disclosure, copying or
> distribution of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have
> received this communication in error, please immediately delete this
message
> and any attachments.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Whitman [mailto:davids2toys@charter.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 6:00 PM
> To: LMPerformance Sales
> Subject: Re: Part Question
>
> Well Leon,
> I see you are still a man of very few words, I guess listening to your
> customer is not exactly your strong point is it! As I said before it is
your
> business and your reputation.
> I copied this from your return form "We cannot accept returns on parts
that
> have been used or installed. No returns will be accepted after 45 days.
All
> Returns must be in original packaging. Prior authorization must be given
> before any return can be made. Up to a 20% Restocking Fee may apply.
> Shipping cost will not be refunded. Hoods may not be returned. "
> 1) I have had my part for much more than 45 days.
> 2) would I be paying a restocking fee?
> 3)Would I be the one paying to ship it back to you?
> 4) If yes, do you think that is right?
> 5) Would you send me a new shifter before the old one gets returned so I
am
> not stuck w/o a car for weeks?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "LMPerformance Sales" <Sales@LMPerformance.com>
> To: "'David Whitman'" <davids2toys@charter.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 1:24 PM
> Subject: RE: Part Question
>
>
> > Hi
> > Fill out:
> > http://www.lmperformance.com/returns/
> > So I can get it returned and credited for store credit.
> >
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Leon
> > http://www.LMPerformance.com
> >
> > CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: The information transmitted in this electronic
> mail
> > message is confidential and proprietary. Any disclosure, copying or
> > distribution of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have
> > received this communication in error, please immediately delete this
> message
> > and any attachments.
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: David Whitman [mailto:davids2toys@charter.net]
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 12:17 PM
> > To: LMPerformance Sales
> > Subject: Re: Part Question
> >
> > Leon, I don't know what you are talking about, sent what to returns???
> Last
> > I heard you from you, you were working on this matter!Then you sent me
an
> > email saying you were on vacation and it would be awhile. Look in your
> sent
> > folder to verify this. I will, also fwd them to you.
> > Leon, when I start hearing I am the only one that you have heard of with
> > this problem, I can see where this is going. I sent you those links
> showing
> > you have got all kinds of people with problems with this shifter!
> > So to summarize you have been no help at all so far, I have lost my
> patience
> > with this whole thing and now I have been in direct contact with Hurst's
> > management about this issue, and they are being very helpful finally,
but
> it
> > took a nasty letter replying to their first email response in which they
> > avoided all the issues I bought up In my opinion, this is what you
should
> be
> > doing for your customer, since I purchased it from you, so I guess I
will
> > handle it now.
> > Leon, your 2 word and 1 sentence replies are completely unsatisfactory,
> and
> > your attitude on the phone was also not good. I have been perfectly nice
> and
> > professional with you, and have not been treated the same in return.
> > Hey , it is your reputation and your customer service, so I guess you
can
> do
> > whatever you want.
> > Thanks, Dave Whitman
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "LMPerformance Sales" <Sales@LMPerformance.com>
> > To: <davids2toys@charter.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 11:14 AM
> > Subject: FW: Part Question
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Hi
> > > Did you send this to returns yet ?
> > >
> > > Thanks!
> > > Leon
> > > http://www.LMPerformance.com
> > >
> > > CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: The information transmitted in this
electronic
> > mail
> > > message is confidential and proprietary. Any disclosure, copying or
> > > distribution of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have
> > > received this communication in error, please immediately delete this
> > message
> > > and any attachments.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Leon, Here is an email I sent in to Hurst 2 days ago, it says in their
> > > warranty info that you also need to be contacted and involve about the
> > > issue. Have you heard anything from the wholesaler yet?
> > > Thanks...Dave Whitman
> > >
> > > "Dear Hurst,
> > > I and many others on the mustangsource.com are having issues with your
> > comp
> > > plus shifter for the 05 Mustang gt. I got this shifter back in August,
> and
> > > at that time there were discrepancy's with the instructions, also
there
> is
> > > an ongoing problem with vibration under acceleration between 3-4
> thousand
> > > rpms ands very notchy shifting requiring a lot of effort.
> > > The discrepancy in the directions concerns the offset piece at the
stick
> > > bottom, that hooks up to the trans shifting rod, in your directions it
> > says
> > > to put the long side of the offset to the passenger side...that is
> exactly
> > > opposite that the original is hooked up, this also makes the trans rod
> > > crooked. You have revised your directions on 12 05, these directions
say
> > to
> > > do just the opposite, long side offset of the stick bottom now is
being
> > told
> > > to put it towards the drivers side. when I try this in my car the new
> way,
> > > the serrations in nub are going toward the driver, if you were to put
> the
> > > stick there, it would rub up against the boot housing and, the curve
> would
> > > be going the wrong way. if you put the stick on the pass side, you
would
> > > have the serrations of the shifter stick, against the smooth side of
the
> > > nub. Did you modify your shifter to coincide with the new
instructions?
> > > Now as far as this vibration problem, it is in the stick, if you grab
> the
> > > stick, it will stop. I have tried everything, put the stock bushing in
> the
> > > back, then the stock bushing in the front, offset going both ways,
yada,
> > > yada, yada!
> > > I have notice there is a little play up and down in the spherical ball
> in
> > > the middle, I have been hearing from people who bought from Brentspeed
> > that
> > > their was a defect and Hurst is replacing them, one guy got a
> replacement
> > > and it is still Vibrating.
> > > I have tried calling recently and was on hold forever, I finally hung
up
> > > because I was killing my minutes on the cell phone . I had my brother
> > (free
> > > long distance)call so he could have someone call me, he waited a 1/2
> hour,
> > > finally got someone, they said would call me right back...I waited all
> > > afternoon, NO CALL, that was 4 days ago. You should at least have a
> voice
> > > mail option so you could at least leave a message and call back #.
> > > Anyway, I am reaching my wits end with this, I am totally frustrated
and
> > am
> > > begging you for some answers and a resolution to these problems. Any
> > > information will be greatly appreciated. I would find it much easier
to
> > talk
> > > to a person about this, rather than email, is there a direct line or
can
> > you
> > > call me? Thanks in advance Eagerly waiting your response.....David
> > Whitman"
> > >
> > > Also Leon, hear is just two of the topics about the Hurst shifter
> > problems,
> > > There are more than just these two, also on other sites, but these are
> the
> > > two I am posting in at the moment.
> > > http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?sh...pic=32344&st=80
> > >
> > > http://www.mustangforums.com/m_1098137/tm.htm
> > >
> > > http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?sh...=46945&hl=hurst
> > >
> > > http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?sh...=37814&hl=hurst
> > > Thanks Leon, I hope you can be of some help to me and others....Dave
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "LMPerformance Info" <info@lmperformance.com>
> > > To: <davids2toys@charter.net>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2006 3:32 PM
> > > Subject: RE: Part Question
> > >
> > >
> > > > Whats the question ?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Thanks!
> > > > Leon
> > > > http://www.LMPerformance.com
> > > >
> > > > CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: The information transmitted in this
> > > > electronic
> > > mail
> > > > message is confidential and proprietary. Any disclosure, copying or
> > > > distribution of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you
have
> > > > received this communication in error, please immediately delete this
> > > message
> > > > and any attachments.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: davids2toys@charter.net [mailto:davids2toys@charter.net]
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2006 2:05 PM
> > > > Subject: Part Question
> > > >
> > > > part#3910201, Hurst shifter
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Order Number:
> > > > davids2toys@charter.net
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Reply
Old Apr 18, 2006 | 08:33 PM
  #59  
davids2toys's Avatar
Legacy TMS Member
 
Joined: December 8, 2004
Posts: 1,817
Likes: 4
So hear is the deal. He wants you to use the tech site as the pathway, also mention his name as part of your email concerning your problem...JIM PUSKAS. I am sure he will supply anybody with the isolator kits if they are having the vibration problems, also, he will supply a new shifter minus the ball and stick to anybody who has a spherical ball problem as I had( play up and down).
Wish you all good luck, it is such a pleasure to drive without that racket, I really never realized how much I hated it till it was gone.
Dave
Reply
Old Apr 19, 2006 | 05:24 AM
  #60  
outdoorstom's Avatar
Shelby GT350 Member
 
Joined: December 1, 2004
Posts: 2,098
Likes: 0
From: Waddington, NY (waaaay up north)
Dave - thanks for all the time and effort you've put into this! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img] If mine starts vibrating, I'll be contacting Jim and taking care of the problem.
Reply



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