Still trying to figure out some shifting issues I'm having, and I'm trying to determine if cruddy stock engine mounts could be causing the engine to torque too much on hard shifts, knocking the shifter out of alignment between gears...

I was looking in the engine bay tonight, and I grabbed the engine and pushed back-and-forth on it from the drivers side, and I was able to get a good quarter-inch of movement out of it... I'd hate to see how much it is moving when I'm doing some hard shifting at high rpm's...

Does anyone know if this is an acceptable amount of play/slop from the stock mounts? My previous car's engine didn't move nearly as much when trying to rock the engine. Heck, one could sit on the engine and it'd barely move.

 

Well its time to install some new mounts. And yes they will help. I have the Prothane ones good price and easy to install. I did mine when I did the headers. I also installed the CHE K-member brace with torque limiters and what a difference.

 

The stock mounts are hydraulic meaning they are liquid filled. They have a lot of give. I had shifting problems with a Steeda triax, installed the Prothane mounts and it only helped the problem. My shifting problems weren't over until I added the MGW shifter. Their torsion mount on the remote beam is the only shifter that addresses the twisting drivetrain. It will cure your problem. I'd do the mounts and the shifter. You won't be disappointed.

 

I was going to try the che lower K-member brace with struts to the tranny to keep it stiff but not loose the damping of the stock motor mounts at idle and normal driving. It moves a lot, watch the shifter sometime when on/off throttle just as you shift. She be wiggly.

 

Well if you think about it if you restrict the movement of the trans at the bellhousing and leave the soft stock motor mounts there you are creating a stress point at the transmission where the torque limiters are mounted. Not good.

 

I'm adding the Prothane motor mounts when the headers go on next week. The K-member brace and torque limiters helped but I think the soft motor mounts contribute to the shifting problems.

 

That when I did mine. all at the same time.

 

Good info. Thanks everyone! I've always been planning to pick up a MGW - I think I will get the prothane mounts also.

 

here's the low down
my engine would move in all directions by about 1/4" on the stock hydro mounts.
when i added the whipple.. the engine dropped by a little over 1/4" down, and gradually i noticed that i'm no longer able to shift at WOT without having to force the gear in.

i've done the following so far:
-installed Prothane motor mounts: i love the feel.. don't mind the add NVH (i really don't feel any.. my car is rather noisy as it is).. they raised the motor back up about 1/4", so i'm thinking i might have been better off with lowering mounts.
still can't shift.

-installed the CHE K member brace with torque limiters: i absolutely feel this one at work.. the front is so much tighter around bends.. the car feels more solid altogether.
still can't shift, although i felt a slight improvment there.

-the last culprit on my mind is the Steeda Tri-AX.. my shifting problems started around the time i installed it, so i'm going MGW.
i got the MGW shifter here yesterday and will be installing it soon.. i hope this will cut it

 

The MGW will do it for you.

 

are you saying this out of experience?
i've had a few people with the Prothane mounts, CHE Torque limiters and the MGW tell me they still can't shift for sh*t :|

 

My 90 T-Bird Super Coupe had Hydraulic (fluid filled) motor mounts. They were prone to failure. Mine were replaced while the car was still under warranty. I hope the S197 mounts are better than the ones used on the TBSC!! Note: aftermarket guys sold "solid" (rubber) replacement mounts.

 

Yes. I have the MGW, Prothane mounts, Centerforce DF clutch with their aluminum flywheel and I can speed shift now. I couldn't with the triax, but the only thing I've changed is the shifter. You know they could have a clutch set up that's engaging too close to the floor which will screw up the shifts at high R's every time.

 

i just installed the MGW shifter and i absolutely LOVE it
still having a bit of a problem shifting under load.

i guess i can always change my clutch and see.
how do you like your Centerforce Clutch? i heard they're noisy and was told to go Spec Stage 2 or 2+

 

I don't hear a thing. It's been a great set up with minimal pedal effort. It never slips at all and it really is quiet. It has a stock feel, no chatter, engages smoothly like stock.

How many turns do you have the MGW throw adjustment at? I would suggest motor mounts too. I'm just saying that my set up is working great.

 

i have the MGW on the longest throw ( turned all the way in ), i also have the prothane bullet mounts, and the CHE K member brace with the torque limiters preloaded 1.5 turns each

 

What about your clutch? Stock? How far from the floor does it begin to engage?

 

stock clutch.. still holding up just fine, no slip, no smell, no grinding!
i also don't have much free play.. if i'm in 1st gear, the car will start moving as i lift up the clutch by an inch or so.

i have no reason to think my clutch is to blame so far.

i'm getting used to the MGW shifter and i'm seriously blown away by it!

 

Who's got the best deal on the prothane mounts? Thanks.

 

You can get them from BMR for $119.00. That's about as cheap as I've seen.