34124231user

My Steeda UCA is ariving tomorrow. Anybody have any tips on what not to do during the install?

Does this component reduce that "rubber driveshaft" feeling at all?

Thanks!

MTAS

This might help, or at least get you on the right path. Good luck!
http://www.modularfords.com/forums/2...?highlight=uca

Cali HP addict

Get the car on jack stands, relieve some pressure off of the rear end so it isn't fully drooping or fully compressed. Remove the 2 bolts (under the car) that hold the UCA bracket, remove the 1 bolt (under the rear seat) that holds the UCA bracket. Remove the bolt that holds the UCA to the bracket. NOTE: Even with the bracket totally unbolted, I never removed it from the car. Remove the bolt that holds the UCA to the axle and then remove the UCA.
Reverse procedure for installing new one.
Tricks:

1. Be sure you torque the bolt that holds the UCA to the bracket before you re install the bracket to the chassis. If you don't do this, you can't get a torque wrench in there.

2. When torqing the bolt that holds the UCA to the axle you will find that the stock bolt head has a flange on it which keeps it from turning when used with the stock UCA. This bolt head is a pain to get a wrench on because of this. Use a pair of small to med vise grips, clamp them on the new arm of the uca (not on the bolt head) so that the jaws are at 12:00 and 6:00 to the head of the stock bolt and the handle is pointing toward the drivers side tire. Then when the tab rotates around it will hit the vise grip jaw. No need for another wrench and it frees up that hand while tightening.

Good luck! It will make a huge difference!
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34124231user

Thanks, man. I'll let you know how it goes.

34124231user

I got the UCA installed today- what a PITA!!!! Your tips saved my butt- I almost gave up on it while I was under there, then I went back and read your post- there is no way to get a wrench on the front mount without unbolting the entire upper bracket. I don't know how you are supposed to torque the front bolt- there is no room for a torque wrench to move up in there!

The UCA made a noticeable difference in the way the car hooks up- much tighter on the launch.

My only gripe about the Steeda kit is that they include a new nut that is not the same as the 21mm nut that it replaces- it's a 7/8 inch nut, and I was 350 miles from home with no standard sockets or wrenches- luckily I was able to borrow what I needed. After all that work, I was sorry that I didn't order a new diff bushing, since I had it all apart...it would have been the time to get it done.

Oh well- I am digging the results. All is good.

The car feels tighter now- a good mod for the money. Now if those drive-shafts would only come down in price!

Cali HP addict

Right on man! I haven't installed the bushing either. If you don't have any wheel hop you probably don't need it.

Mongoose

I put mine up on a whole car rack( on the tires) and it was a snap.

34124231user

Hmmmm, I seemed to need the car to be up on frame blocks, so that I could manipulate the rear-end with a floor jack to get the rear bolt holes to align. Maybe I wouldn't have had that problem if I had just left the car on its wheels? Oh well, it's done now.

How did you set the torque on the front bushing bolt? I tried 3 different torque wrenches, and none of them had enough room to swing to set torque. I had to blue-torque it instead.