How do u get 400HP from an 05 GT?
quickly and least expensive-blower or nitrous. The proper way though would be to build the bottom end with forged internals and then a blower or nitrous.
NA or S/C'd?
N/A'd I'd say compression, cams, ported heads, full exhaust, UD pullies, and a compy tune. If you want to hedge your bet add some stroke to that crank.
compression - cause I think for every full point you get a 4% increase in power
Cams - duration isn't the issue, its aggressive valve opening and closing rates so you can better take advantage of what the heads can offer.
Ported heads - not so much big high lift numbers, but increase the mid-range and average flow overall more air = more power
Full exhaust - on a street car the tuning effect of the system is debatable, but anytime you can reduce back pressure and the amount of power it absorbs trying to expel the exhaust you free up HP and the stock system as good as it might be probably doesnt support more than the 300 HP it does now.
Underdrive pullies - same as exhaust, cut the parasitic power losses.
Compy tune - it goes without saying if you do this much, this is a horse of a different color.
Stoker motor - dont let the V-tech goons fool you, pound for pound, ounce for ounce and apples to apples there is no replacment for displacement.
N/A'd I'd say compression, cams, ported heads, full exhaust, UD pullies, and a compy tune. If you want to hedge your bet add some stroke to that crank.
compression - cause I think for every full point you get a 4% increase in power
Cams - duration isn't the issue, its aggressive valve opening and closing rates so you can better take advantage of what the heads can offer.
Ported heads - not so much big high lift numbers, but increase the mid-range and average flow overall more air = more power
Full exhaust - on a street car the tuning effect of the system is debatable, but anytime you can reduce back pressure and the amount of power it absorbs trying to expel the exhaust you free up HP and the stock system as good as it might be probably doesnt support more than the 300 HP it does now.
Underdrive pullies - same as exhaust, cut the parasitic power losses.
Compy tune - it goes without saying if you do this much, this is a horse of a different color.
Stoker motor - dont let the V-tech goons fool you, pound for pound, ounce for ounce and apples to apples there is no replacment for displacement.
Just trade your $49,838 for this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...sspagename=WDVW
4500$ = 525hp
(procharger)
I think Hot Rod magazine said the stock exhaust is good until 425 hp. I guess you can upgrade it and get 10-15 hp. I was thinking about buying an 06 and putting on some 4V heads. After some research, I think the 3V with a port and polish will out flow a stock 4V. Probably cheaper and easier to get the heads done. The blower is the way to go. I was thinking about N/A, but the costs are higher and some of the parts are not available yet.
Originally posted by stkdidy+May 3, 2005, 10:20 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(stkdidy @ May 3, 2005, 10:20 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-new22003@May 3, 2005, 7:20 PM
$3900 = 420 hp

$3900 = 420 hp

4500$ = 525hp
(procharger)
[/b][/quote]
Procharger $4500.00
install and tune $700
running over your crank halfway down the track because you didn't beef up that stock bottom end.....priceless
you pay through the nose for speed, and you get what you pay for. if you look at the shelby motor when it comes out i guarantee you that they will have a forged crank, and better pistons, rings, rods, etc... to keep that motor runnin after 50,000 miles
a hi-output race motor is built (and rebuilt often i might add) lean and strong, and built to last only the duration of the race. The motor in your mustang is built to go 100,000 miles or more. Nitrous, and bolt on superchargers will give you additional horsepower, absolutely they will, but consider the actual cost of the mod, not just the cost of the equipment. Install nitrous and blow the heck out of your motor in a few pushes of the button. install a supercharger, and do the same but a bit slower.
if you dont mind rebuiling that motor go ahead and bolt on a supercharger, pump up the boost, and have fun till it pops. then rebuild it strong, with a good headjob, three angle valve job, ported polished, bore and stroke it, throw a cam in there, beef up that valve train, and make sure you get the air out with some wild exhaust.
I personally will not be the fastest GT out on the track, but i will have a huge smile on my face when i drive my car to and from the track with my wallet safely in my back pocket....and i will be relaxing at the house while the supercharger and nitrous guys rebuild their motors....
I am not trying to deter anybody from buyin a supercharger or beefing up their motor, but i do want to be the voice of reason for the less experienced guys out there who may be sitting there thinking that all you need to do is bolt on a supercharger and become Don Garlits. You pay one way or another in the long run, but if you pay right the first time you will run longer.
my two cents...for what it's worth
let the flaming begin
Ahhhhhh.....that's a thing of BEAUTY
Supercharging is the easist way and gives you room to grow in the furture. (some may say nitrous but I want my power whenever I need it) However I think the heads and variable cam technology will get you over the 400 mark NA one day once people start really working on these cars. Time will tell on that one, so for now I would say supercharging.
Thanks Mike
Thanks Mike
Originally posted by 169stang@May 3, 2005, 8:48 PM
quickly and least expensive-blower or nitrous. The proper way though would be to build the bottom end with forged internals and then a blower or nitrous.
quickly and least expensive-blower or nitrous. The proper way though would be to build the bottom end with forged internals and then a blower or nitrous.
Faber, Supercharging is safe if you do it right. No you don't have to beef up the engine if you want to run moderate boost levels. Tuning is the most important part of a forced induction system. I wouldn't boost my Stang without a wideband and a system like this : http://www.jandssafeguard.com/
That system is very effective at preventing detonation, which is a main reason why boosted engines fail. I would have no qualms about running 450 rwhp, assuming I had the car professionally tuned
That system is very effective at preventing detonation, which is a main reason why boosted engines fail. I would have no qualms about running 450 rwhp, assuming I had the car professionally tuned
Originally posted by donkey@May 3, 2005, 7:20 PM
Just trade your $49,838 for this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...sspagename=WDVW
Just trade your $49,838 for this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...sspagename=WDVW
Livernois pre-assembled 4.6L shortblock, steel cobra crank, forged rods and pistons, 3295.
http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/product.phtml?p=36
They also have head porting, but you need to call about the prices for that.
So, for only 3300 plus your 4000 for the SC and then $1000 or so for the addition parts, you can get a nice reliable 400 hp for only about $8300.00 plus installation. Suddenly that saleen is not lookin so bad.
http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/product.phtml?p=36
They also have head porting, but you need to call about the prices for that.
So, for only 3300 plus your 4000 for the SC and then $1000 or so for the addition parts, you can get a nice reliable 400 hp for only about $8300.00 plus installation. Suddenly that saleen is not lookin so bad.
Originally posted by racerx@May 4, 2005, 9:56 AM
How about 380HP, 400 ft-lb TQ instead?
Sean Hyland Motorsports - 05 GT Tuning
How about 380HP, 400 ft-lb TQ instead?
Sean Hyland Motorsports - 05 GT Tuning
Kind of interesting that they use a Steeda CAI and a C&L intake tube, not the C&L CAI. Wonder what the reasoning behind that was? It also might answer a question I have asked here ( and several other places ) about whether or not the C&L intake tube would mate up to the Steeda CAI or not. On C&L's web site they sell just the intake tube, and it says it will not work with a stock air box, and will not work with all aftermarket equipment. But they do not say what it WILL work with, and they don't seem too interested in answering emails on the subject.



