dustindu4

I really don't have a lot of money to spend, but I'm not going to wait to buy mods for my car as it gets older. Better to buy it now, enjoy it now to maximize the life of the mods, and pay for it later (credit card).

Track season opens in a few months and I'm going to break into 12s if it kills me. I only want bolt ons, no NOS, blower, turbo, etc. Just basic stuff.

I'm thinking:

4.10 gears
BMR LCAs w/ poly bushings
2 spare 17" rims with Mickey Thompson 3743 biasply baloney skins
line locks
low speed fan toggle switch
Flowmasters (have these already)


I was thinking about getting pullies, to free up some horses, but I'm afraid of messing up my engine two ways. Not mounting them correctly ruining my crank, and draining electrical power for my accessories (I like my stereo and A/C). I think I can get the same benefit of pullies by getting a Meziere electric water pump instead. If I got both mods together, the pullies woundn't give me enough power to run my water pump and low speed fan. Blazing Saddles is always killing his battery with this combo. Besides I think the water pump will help me more at the track to take care of heat soak.

If I get the water pump, I'm going to need a water temp gauge to monitor it and make sure it's working correctly. A power on light for the pump would be a good idea too. I'm a big fan of the Speed of Sound gauge pod. The Autometer pod looks like cheap junk IMO. Since I need to fill the other pod, I will get an oil pressure meter to watch the engine start button problem. I like the Autometer Cobalt gauges a lot.



You think it would be possible to mount a single line lock solenoid by the master cylinder to lock both front wheels? Most other cars are done that way I think.

George and Mike what do you think?

slammer223

I like your do-it-now philosophy, but please don't really let it kill ya! How about including long tube headers in your list of future mods?

dustindu4

I'd love to work on my exhaust but I live in a condo community with whose association is run by *****. Money isn't that big of a deal, but no more than $2500

don_w

If you get the 4.10s, IMO you'll need the drag tires. I would add both of those first. Then the eH2O pump. And then I'd say add LT headers. After those, see if: (1) you get into the 12s, and/or (2) you have any trouble hooking up. If (1) then mission accomplished. If (2) then go for the LCAs. Line locks won't help you into the 12s, but will save wear and tear on the rear brakes/rotors. And be careful how you hook it up with the ABS.

dustindu4

yes the 4.10s and tires go hand in hand

I'm not coordinated enough with my size 15 shoes to do burnouts using the brake/clutch fancy footwork. I always end up stalling and embarassing myself. Hence the need for line locks

I may not have to pay for my 4.10s since my stock gears are howling between 65 and 75 in 5th gear. I'm making an appointment next week to bring it in. They'll probably put a dampener on it to quiet it down. If they don't work they'll have to replace the ring and pinion. I'll convince them to put in the 4.10s under warranty.

dustindu4

George do you think your UD pulley is the cause of the power issues? Wouldn't you have less problems with the stock pulley?

How exactly does the line lock mess with the ABS brakes? Are the ports on the solenoid too small?

scrming

Just to chip in here... I replace my alternator pulley with this monster of a pulley:



The Alternator still pumps out plenty of power even at idle...

hmmmm... but I do have 2 bottle heaters... might have to budget a new battery myself! LOL!

dustindu4

that big pulley probably helps! George would benefit from that

dustindu4

You had those problems before the bottle heaters though didn't you?

Which pulley did you buy? The steeda one comes as a set, the water pump pulley is useless with the electric water pump right?

RadBOSS

Maybe I missed it in the thread, but how about a cold air kit? Looks like you only have a K&N filter?

If you can afford the dyno time and install adjustable trailing links (BMR) there is some RWHP to be found in getting the pinion angle right.

You might also consider the BMR rear axle lower trailing arm support bracket (sorry it requires welding) to raise the instant center a little (anti squat). This gives you some adjustability you can play with and dial the car in for better launches.

Install much stiffer rear sway bar to stabilize the chassis when you launch (might remove for street driving though)

Get some properly valved drag shocks.

You could also get rid of those restrictor plates in the intake runners.

dustindu4

I have the K&N Air Charger intake

George, did you buy both pullies or can you just buy the lower one?

RadBOSS

Well when you are racing, you don't need the A/C and Shaker 1000 on ... why not install a alternator lock out switch. If your battery can't handle that in a qtr mile you have other problems.

thump_rrr

Hi dustindu4,

I notice that you're in NH so I'm guessing you're running at Epping.

It doesn't take that much to break into the 12's.

I ran a 13.22 at Epping during the Fun Ford Weekend last August.
It was within 2/100ths of my time at my track near Montreal.

The only mods to my car at the time was a C&L intake, a Diablosport Predator with a 93 Octane C&L tune, and a Steeda 3rd Link on factory tires.

Just by going to a set of 275/40 17 BFG Drag Radials I broke into the 12's with a 12.95. I only got the BFG's because a friend had them brand new on a set of 05 upgrade rims like mine for $500.00 canadian. My next set will be a set of M/T ET Streets (so I can still run Street class at the FFW).

I improved to 12.82 by installing a set of Steeda Underdrive Pulleys

I further improved to 12.69 with a set of JBA Longtube headers and catted H-Pipe on the last day of the season with a slipping clutch.

The BMR Lower Control Arms are a good idea along with the instant center brackets. CHE Performance makes a set of bolt in brackets which will save the welding cost over the BMR's.

Don't spend more than you need to if cracking into the 12's is your only goal.

Don't forget that you'll need a set of driveshaft safety loops if you're running 12.99 or faster. BMR has a 2pc. bolt in set for $199.00.

Don't spend your money on linelocks unless you're serious about drag racing. Start your burnout and once you're spinning move your clutch foot over to the brake. Just be gentle with it and it won't bother your rear brakes.

I have over 550 runs on mine last season and the brakes are perfect.

Good luck and stay within your budget.

FFW Pic

scrming

3RWHP gain at peak! LOL!