Professor

I have an 06 GT that is fundamentally stock except a JLT CAI and a tune. It's a street car and I never intend to spend my Saturday nights at the dragstrip (other than an occasional run to benchmark the car). Short term, I don't expect to do anything significant in terms of modifications. Long term, I would like to put an Edelbrock e-Force blower on her.

She's my first SN197. I've owned both a Fox Coupe and an 01 Bullitt. If I launch the car hard it has more wheelhop than the Fox and Bullitt combined ever did. It could just be the cold tires weather, but the car just refuses to hook up and the wheel hop is at least a partial culprit.

So ... I'm thinking lower control arms. I don't want the spherical steel bushings because I don't want to add NVH (unless in the form of exhaust noise). My questions (yes I know ... I'm a wordy academic ... sorry):

1) Steel or billet, or does it really matter? I like the claims about eliminating wheel hop and NVH that Steeda makes about their chrome moly tubular LCA's ( https://themustangsource.com/f669/st...w-pics-461715/), but they are double the price of the UMI's (http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=252) and don't have grease fittings, which brings me to my next question.

2) Are grease fittings needed for these? Poly bushings are often put on parts of a suspension without the need for grease (other than the initial grease) fittings. However, it may be that the amount of movement (force) on these bushings warrants grease fittings. Who wants extra things that need lubing if not necessary? Opinions?

By the way, in terms of price and looks, the Motoblue LCA's (http://www.rpmoutlet.com/05gt_r.htm) are inexpensive and billet and have grease fittings. I'm just not familiar with the brand. Thoughts?

3) Finally, does this really resolve (or even substantially reduce) wheel hop? I can't imagine that wheel hop is good for her. I don't mind tire spin ... I can fix that with tires ... but wheel hop is only cool when Steve McQueen did it in reverse.

frdtch05gt

I have J and M rear control arms, they are excellent, completely removed all wheel hop. These are steel and seem to be very strong, I've been driving on them for a couple years and they're holding up well. These don't have fittings and require a silicone type grease, included with them, and there's plenty of grease for adding more to them later if needed. They're also not expensive, a very good deal overall. I also got the adjustable upper arm later on, also a great part, very strong and well built. You can't go wrong with J and M.

Doogie

J&M also has a reasonably priced billet LCA if want a little extra bling, but the steel one that Frdtch05gt mentions will provide the exact same result. I am running Steeda billet LCA only because I found a killer deal on ebay, otherwise I would have went with J&M.

J&M LCAs

sam strano

If you want a hand with the choices, give me a ring. I sell all kinds of different LCA's among a few brands. Billet, tubular, adjustable, non-adjustable, poly bushed, rod-ended, spherical bearings, roto-joints....

Every type has advantages and disadvantages. Billets are better looking, lighter, and don't act as a sound tube which makes them a little more quiet. But they cost more. Tubular are cheaper, and come in a few varieties. The various ends offer differing amounts of articulation and noise. FWIW, the poly 3-piece bushings... nice idea but in function not as hot as you think. Urethane on urethane isn't free to rotate. slightly better than a normal poly bushing, but not at all like a roto-joint or a rod-end.

Professor

I've asked this question to a number of Mustang folks on various Mustang boards and personal friends. The answers are as numerous as the choices. I like the look of the billet and I don't see the car ever having more than 450 rwhp (and that's only if I decide to put an eForce blower on it). It won't see signficant track duty (drag strip or autocross) ... just the occasional blast through the gears and some curvy Ozark Mountain roads. I might change the stock ride height down the road, but it's a low-priority mod (long after wheels/tires, exhausts and some cosmetic mods). So, I'm leaning towards non-adjustable billet with non-sperical ends. That should be quiet (I once chased a clunking in my Fox rear end for a year before I finally found it ... it drove me nuts) and should significantly reduce the wheelhop (especially when I dump the current tires and put the Nitto 555's on there).

gmantheman

I have the steeda chrome molly LCA and BMR non adjustable UCA. I have zero NVH and zero wheel hop with this set-up.

redruder

I've always heard to stay away from billet LCAs. Go with tubular LCAs. I have J&M LCAs and love them.

2kanchoo

Sounds like you're on the right track. If you lower the car you can always get an adjustable UCA to adjust the pinion angle with. When you do decide to lower the car Sam Strano above is the guy to talk to. 14 scca championships don't lie. The man knows his s197 suspension better than most could ever hope to.

Blacksmoke

If you're gonna post you've heard to stay away from them you should REALLY post WHY you have heard to stay away from them.
Otherwise your post is kinda pointless.

It provides no reason.

Cavero

I never had any increase in NVH with my BMR tubular LCAs and they eliminated 95% of the wheel hop. Once I added my Steeda adjustable UCA, the wheel hop was completely gone and the thing hooked up a lot better. I did get a small increase in NVH though, but it was worth it.