Guide to Properly Lowering your S197
#41
So...anyone know what and why the V notch and the arrow on the top of the struts are for? I just changed the front springs and stuffed the struts up in without knowing why those are there. Anyone????
thanks,
07 Hoss Mustang
thanks,
07 Hoss Mustang
#42
Cobra Member
The strut mounts are indexed and you need to make sure they go back in the same place they were. If i am not mistaken the Arrow goes out but i cannot recall from when i did mine.
Richard
Richard
#43
Shelby GT500 Member
Join Date: September 2, 2004
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#45
thanks Max200GP and 06gt4rad.
I noticed a little shimmy around 50-60 and guessed it may have been related since the wheel balance was fine before I changed those springs.I figured it may be something related to the arrows on the stuts.
I guess you know what I will be doing tomorrow morning for an hour or so. I appreciate your help in answering my question.......
later,
07 Hoss
I noticed a little shimmy around 50-60 and guessed it may have been related since the wheel balance was fine before I changed those springs.I figured it may be something related to the arrows on the stuts.
I guess you know what I will be doing tomorrow morning for an hour or so. I appreciate your help in answering my question.......
later,
07 Hoss
#46
Mach 1 Member
I referenced this write-up several times while considering and purchasing my lowering gear. I went with the low dollar set-up that a few buddies of mine also did, Eibach Pro Kit. The write-up mentioned I would need a new camber bolt and I was told by a friend that NAPA part #NCP 264-3642 would do it. Next was the question, where does this bolt go? Top or bottom.
I called Eibach and they were very helpful. Not only telling me that the camber bolt goes on top, but that it needs to be placed with tab outward to go positive, to take out the negative camber of lowering. The person I talked to (Dan) walked me through the whole lowering process.
We'll see today how this all works out.
Thanks for the write-up Steve.
I called Eibach and they were very helpful. Not only telling me that the camber bolt goes on top, but that it needs to be placed with tab outward to go positive, to take out the negative camber of lowering. The person I talked to (Dan) walked me through the whole lowering process.
We'll see today how this all works out.
Thanks for the write-up Steve.
#47
Making a trip soon to Steeda...
Probably going with the Steeda Ultra-Lites and a few other goodies
Front Street Endlinks
Strut Mounts
etc....
Hopefully Gus will give me a good deal...
Front Street Endlinks
Strut Mounts
etc....
Hopefully Gus will give me a good deal...
#48
And thanks for the education!
#49
I was curious about just doing this as well. Any advice??
#50
Cobra Member
Just upgrading the stock sway bars will help although from what i understand the front sway bar is pretty good some say upgrading is a waste of money others say it helps.
Richard
Richard
#51
OK,
Now that I am finally ready to bite the bullet, I've looked at several suspension threads and really like the idea of a coil-over set-up since they are only $3000-400 more than a good Spring/Strut/shock combo. They offer more adjustability and supposedly a better ride quality once dialed in.
One question though: Am I opening a new can of worms by doing this? Do I need the whole LCA relocation and ball joints to take advantage of the coil-overs? Will I be spending extra $$ with having alignment redone continuously?
I use my mustang as a daily driver and do not want added NVH. I also want a "set it and forget it" setup for daily driving. But I'd like to be able to go to the auto-x once or twice a summer.
Am I asking for my cake and want to eat it to??
Now that I am finally ready to bite the bullet, I've looked at several suspension threads and really like the idea of a coil-over set-up since they are only $3000-400 more than a good Spring/Strut/shock combo. They offer more adjustability and supposedly a better ride quality once dialed in.
One question though: Am I opening a new can of worms by doing this? Do I need the whole LCA relocation and ball joints to take advantage of the coil-overs? Will I be spending extra $$ with having alignment redone continuously?
I use my mustang as a daily driver and do not want added NVH. I also want a "set it and forget it" setup for daily driving. But I'd like to be able to go to the auto-x once or twice a summer.
Am I asking for my cake and want to eat it to??
#53
OK,
Now that I am finally ready to bite the bullet, I've looked at several suspension threads and really like the idea of a coil-over set-up since they are only $3000-400 more than a good Spring/Strut/shock combo. They offer more adjustability and supposedly a better ride quality once dialed in.
One question though: Am I opening a new can of worms by doing this? Do I need the whole LCA relocation and ball joints to take advantage of the coil-overs? Will I be spending extra $$ with having alignment redone continuously?
I use my mustang as a daily driver and do not want added NVH. I also want a "set it and forget it" setup for daily driving. But I'd like to be able to go to the auto-x once or twice a summer.
Am I asking for my cake and want to eat it to??
Now that I am finally ready to bite the bullet, I've looked at several suspension threads and really like the idea of a coil-over set-up since they are only $3000-400 more than a good Spring/Strut/shock combo. They offer more adjustability and supposedly a better ride quality once dialed in.
One question though: Am I opening a new can of worms by doing this? Do I need the whole LCA relocation and ball joints to take advantage of the coil-overs? Will I be spending extra $$ with having alignment redone continuously?
I use my mustang as a daily driver and do not want added NVH. I also want a "set it and forget it" setup for daily driving. But I'd like to be able to go to the auto-x once or twice a summer.
Am I asking for my cake and want to eat it to??
I think we could decrease understeer with a stiffer rear sway bar, though.
#55
Installed Addco Rear Sway Bar
I just installed an Addco rear swaybar on my 'vert. Fairly easy swap and a much bigger bar. I took it on a short drive and my initial impression is that the car seems a bit more neutral. I took 06GT4RAD's advice and just did the rear bar. I also noticed that Steeda's G-Trac Handling Pack 2 only upgrades the rear bar and leaves the stock front bar. According to specs, the front aftermarket bars only stiffen things up 10% (which did not seem like much) and the rear bar is 50% stiffer. I chose the Addco because it was not too costly and it is developed for a Mustang with a stock suspension. The FRPP, Steeda, etc. mention they work best with their respective lowering springs and dampers.
#56
I just installed an Addco rear swaybar on my 'vert. Fairly easy swap and a much bigger bar. I took it on a short drive and my initial impression is that the car seems a bit more neutral. I took 06GT4RAD's advice and just did the rear bar. I also noticed that Steeda's G-Trac Handling Pack 2 only upgrades the rear bar and leaves the stock front bar. According to specs, the front aftermarket bars only stiffen things up 10% (which did not seem like much) and the rear bar is 50% stiffer. I chose the Addco because it was not too costly and it is developed for a Mustang with a stock suspension. The FRPP, Steeda, etc. mention they work best with their respective lowering springs and dampers.
Where did you get your swaybar?
#57
No, I have not lowered my vert and the Addco bars seemed to be designed for the stock suspension. I bought my sway bar from Mustangs Unlimited.
#58
Next years mod money
Lets say I have $8k to buy mods this winter for next summer (labor is figured in beer). I'm doing ARH LT's, Cams, Heads, and suspension. ARH LT's/O/R H we'll say are $1400, Comp Cams $1000 and heads we'll say are $3000 after core return (still need to do more research on heads). I have about $2600 left for suspension.
I'm not concerned with ride quality (can't drive the car to work anymore.... go figure 5% tint and no front plate) nor will I be doing any road courses competitively (sp?). I plan to forge the motor and throw a big blower on it winter 2008. One of my friends is trying to sell me on a TT setup but right now the plan is a big Kenne Bell SC. My main goal is low 1/4 mile times and how many "Nice car!"'s I can get from people. What suspension setup would you guys who are into drag racing go with... From what I've read about BMR, they seem like great parts but I want to hear from guys with experience and current setups. BTW... the $2600 is a minimum... I live like a pauper but make the money of a prince for where I live... another $2k isn't going to break me if a nice drag setup is going to cost me $5k in the long run.
I'm not concerned with ride quality (can't drive the car to work anymore.... go figure 5% tint and no front plate) nor will I be doing any road courses competitively (sp?). I plan to forge the motor and throw a big blower on it winter 2008. One of my friends is trying to sell me on a TT setup but right now the plan is a big Kenne Bell SC. My main goal is low 1/4 mile times and how many "Nice car!"'s I can get from people. What suspension setup would you guys who are into drag racing go with... From what I've read about BMR, they seem like great parts but I want to hear from guys with experience and current setups. BTW... the $2600 is a minimum... I live like a pauper but make the money of a prince for where I live... another $2k isn't going to break me if a nice drag setup is going to cost me $5k in the long run.
#59
Legacy TMS Member
Thanks
BB
Semper Fi
#60
Front Mustangs Unlimited Part Number: SB2260 01
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...p?T1=SB2260+01
Rear Mustangs Unlimited Part Number: SB2253 01
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...p?T1=SB2253+01