FRPP front/rear sway bar kit....creaking noises
#1
Cobra Member
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
Thread Starter
Join Date: November 11, 2006
Posts: 1,329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
FRPP front/rear sway bar kit....creaking noises
hi all,
i just had the FRPP front/rear sway bar kit installed.
i notice weird creaking sounds in the rear of my car now.
when i do a very slow sharp turn, the creaking noises get worse.
any insight to this?
thanks!
i just had the FRPP front/rear sway bar kit installed.
i notice weird creaking sounds in the rear of my car now.
when i do a very slow sharp turn, the creaking noises get worse.
any insight to this?
thanks!
#2
Legacy TMS Member
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
Did they lube the bushings? Also all of the fastners are torque to yield, did they replace or at least use loctite? The front bar has two zerk fittings so they can be lubed easily, the rear has two fittings where the bar connects to the axle, but the links connecting the rear bar to the body has to be disassembled in order to lube them.
Get a grease gun and lube the bushings (dont worry, the are designed to flush so no worrying about bursting a gland) and if you have access to a torque wrench, check the bolts, If not get a torque wrench and check the bolts (if any are loose. best practice is to replace them (but they are special order) If you dont have them available or the situation dictates using the old fastner, apply high strength loctite (red). Also if you have to go more than 90 degrees(should only have to go 90 degrees or less) to torque the nut or bolt (after it has been snugged down) consider it useless.
Torque specs for front Suspension
(Nm = Newton Meters ft/lbs = Foot Pounds in/lbs. = Inch pounds)
Brake Caliper Bracket Bolts: 133 Nm - 98 ft/lbs.
Dust Sheild Bolts: 20 Nm - 15 ft/lbs.
Wheel Spindle Pinch Nut: 103 Nm - 76 ft/lbs.
Lower Control Arm Bolt (front): 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Lower Control Arm Bolt (Rear): 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Heat Shield Bolts: 10 Nm - 89 in/lbs.
Brake Line Bracket Bolt: 20 Nm - 15 ft/lbs.
Strut Upper Mount: 62 Nm - 46 ft/lbs.
Strut to Spindle Bolts: 200 Nm - 148 ft/lbs.
Strut to Body Nuts: 35 Nm - 26 ft/lbs.
Wheel Hub Retainer Nut: 300 Nm - 221 ft/lbs.
Stabilizer Bar Bracket Nuts: 70 Nm - 52 ft/lbs.
Anti-lock Brake Sensor Bolt: 6 Nm - 53 in/lbs.
Outer Tie-Rod Ends: 80 Nm - 59 ft/lbs.
Steering Gear Mounting Bolts: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.
Torque Specs for Rear Suspension
(Nm = Newton meters ft/lbs. = Foot Pounds in/lbs. = Inch Pounds)
Rear Shock Absorber Upper Nut: 40 Nm - 10 ft/lbs.
Rear Shock Absorber Lower Bolt: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.
Lower Arm to Body Bolt: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Lower Arm to Axle Bolt: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Panhard Rod to Body Mount Bolt: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Pahhard Rod to Axle Bolt: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Lateral Stiffener Bar to Body Nut: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.
Lateral Stiffener Bar to Body Bolts: 62 Nm - 46 ft/lbs.
Stabilzer Bar Bracket Nuts: 70 Nm - 52 ft/lbs.
Stabilizer Bar Link bolts: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.
Parking Brake Cable Bracket to Lower Arm: 27 Nm - 20 ft/lbs.
Upper Control Arm Front Bolt: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Upper Control Arm Rear Bolts: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.
Upper Control arm Bushing Nut: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Fuel Tank Strap Bolt: 51 Nm -38 ft/lbs.
Brake House Bracket Bolt: 20 Nm - 15 ft/lbs.
Get a grease gun and lube the bushings (dont worry, the are designed to flush so no worrying about bursting a gland) and if you have access to a torque wrench, check the bolts, If not get a torque wrench and check the bolts (if any are loose. best practice is to replace them (but they are special order) If you dont have them available or the situation dictates using the old fastner, apply high strength loctite (red). Also if you have to go more than 90 degrees(should only have to go 90 degrees or less) to torque the nut or bolt (after it has been snugged down) consider it useless.
Torque specs for front Suspension
(Nm = Newton Meters ft/lbs = Foot Pounds in/lbs. = Inch pounds)
Brake Caliper Bracket Bolts: 133 Nm - 98 ft/lbs.
Dust Sheild Bolts: 20 Nm - 15 ft/lbs.
Wheel Spindle Pinch Nut: 103 Nm - 76 ft/lbs.
Lower Control Arm Bolt (front): 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Lower Control Arm Bolt (Rear): 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Heat Shield Bolts: 10 Nm - 89 in/lbs.
Brake Line Bracket Bolt: 20 Nm - 15 ft/lbs.
Strut Upper Mount: 62 Nm - 46 ft/lbs.
Strut to Spindle Bolts: 200 Nm - 148 ft/lbs.
Strut to Body Nuts: 35 Nm - 26 ft/lbs.
Wheel Hub Retainer Nut: 300 Nm - 221 ft/lbs.
Stabilizer Bar Bracket Nuts: 70 Nm - 52 ft/lbs.
Anti-lock Brake Sensor Bolt: 6 Nm - 53 in/lbs.
Outer Tie-Rod Ends: 80 Nm - 59 ft/lbs.
Steering Gear Mounting Bolts: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.
Torque Specs for Rear Suspension
(Nm = Newton meters ft/lbs. = Foot Pounds in/lbs. = Inch Pounds)
Rear Shock Absorber Upper Nut: 40 Nm - 10 ft/lbs.
Rear Shock Absorber Lower Bolt: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.
Lower Arm to Body Bolt: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Lower Arm to Axle Bolt: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Panhard Rod to Body Mount Bolt: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Pahhard Rod to Axle Bolt: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Lateral Stiffener Bar to Body Nut: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.
Lateral Stiffener Bar to Body Bolts: 62 Nm - 46 ft/lbs.
Stabilzer Bar Bracket Nuts: 70 Nm - 52 ft/lbs.
Stabilizer Bar Link bolts: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.
Parking Brake Cable Bracket to Lower Arm: 27 Nm - 20 ft/lbs.
Upper Control Arm Front Bolt: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Upper Control Arm Rear Bolts: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.
Upper Control arm Bushing Nut: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Fuel Tank Strap Bolt: 51 Nm -38 ft/lbs.
Brake House Bracket Bolt: 20 Nm - 15 ft/lbs.
#4
Bob,
I too have to grease the FRPP anti-roll bar bushings. As for the endlinks, should the rear wheels be hanging when disassembling them or can they be on Rhino ramps?
Jon
I too have to grease the FRPP anti-roll bar bushings. As for the endlinks, should the rear wheels be hanging when disassembling them or can they be on Rhino ramps?
Jon
#5
Cobra Member
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
Thread Starter
Join Date: November 11, 2006
Posts: 1,329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hi jon, without greasing your bushings, do you hear CREAKING noises over bumps?
i heard its better to tighten endlinks with the car planted on its wheels...
thanks jon
#6
Legacy TMS Member
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
Hey, sorry for the late reply
front
Stabilizer Bar Bracket Nuts: 70 Nm - 52 ft/lbs.
Stabilizer Bar Link Nuts (forgot these I think in my list) 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.
rear
Stabilzer Bar Bracket Nuts: 70 Nm - 52 ft/lbs.Stabilizer Bar Link bolts: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.
front
Stabilizer Bar Bracket Nuts: 70 Nm - 52 ft/lbs.
Stabilizer Bar Link Nuts (forgot these I think in my list) 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.
rear
Stabilzer Bar Bracket Nuts: 70 Nm - 52 ft/lbs.Stabilizer Bar Link bolts: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.
#7
Legacy TMS Member
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
As soon as I install my camber kit, I'm gonna recheck the torque on every thing, I ordered new nuts and bolts (lol, to the firgg'n tune of 180 bucks) since I'm gonna be taking it apart again.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Rando
2010-2014 Mustang
8
8/25/21 11:12 AM