First oil change (what's everyone using?)
#46
I use the Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30. I doubt Amsoil would recommend this oil to thousands of customers if it was going to void your warranty.
Manufacturers’ warranties are based upon the use of oils meeting specific API Service Classifications, for example, SJ/CF. AMSOIL lubricants meet the current API Service requirements and, thus, are perfectly suited for use in any new vehicle without affecting the validity of the new vehicle warranty.
This is a good read:
http://www.synthetic-oil-tech.com/d....s/ford5w20.htm
But if you want the cliff notes version:
Using 0W-30 won't void your warranty.
However, I'm not surprised that many dealers will tell people it does. Because a dealer would never lie to you.
Manufacturers’ warranties are based upon the use of oils meeting specific API Service Classifications, for example, SJ/CF. AMSOIL lubricants meet the current API Service requirements and, thus, are perfectly suited for use in any new vehicle without affecting the validity of the new vehicle warranty.
This is a good read:
http://www.synthetic-oil-tech.com/d....s/ford5w20.htm
But if you want the cliff notes version:
Using 0W-30 won't void your warranty.
However, I'm not surprised that many dealers will tell people it does. Because a dealer would never lie to you.
#48
Originally Posted by RPM
This equates to an additional savings of 125 million gallons per year when used in all applicable Ford vehicles. Since its introduction in the 2001 MY, 5W-20 oils have saved up to 640 million gallons of gasoline in the U.S. or an equivalent 5.6 million metric tons of carbon dioxide emissions.
#50
Originally Posted by stangxs
So, am i fine with 5w-30? Or should I change it ASAP?
#51
Originally Posted by karman
The service tech will NEVER know what weight oil is in the car unless you TELL them. It cost too much to get it analyzed for viscosity to do it. 5W-30 ain't gonna hurt it.
#52
Originally Posted by Hatchman
It's only about 20 bucks to have a sample of oil run through a standard analysis including viscosity, insolubles, additves, flash point, levels of wear metals and silicon, and if coolant is present.
I work for an oil company (Not Chevron) and I know a bit about oil. The facts are:
1.) Non-synthetic 5W-20 is fine for 5,000 miles (a.k.a. Ford factory fill)
2.) The base stock in synthetics will hold up better under extreme conditions (heat, high shear, extended drain intervals).
3.) Ford wants us to change the oil every 5,000 miles.
4.) Oil is cheap, motors are a bit more.
5.) 5W-20 is light enough that switching to synthetic will not give you appreciable (more than 1.8%) power gains.
6.) I will keep posting my analysis results on my site.
7.) I'm going cross country in July and I am switching to synthetic (Mobil1)
8.) "Synthetic" is a loose term used for any % synthetic base stock.
9.) I do not work for Mobil, yet their products have done well for me.
10.) If you don't beat your car, stick with Ford factory fill - CYA/warranty.
#54
Originally Posted by pitpup
Nice work, Shaun. You might want to edit the link and take out the extra 'i' so folks will not get the big 'Page Cannot Be Found' message...
Interesting results. Thank you.
Interesting results. Thank you.
Thanks,
Shaun
#55
Originally Posted by Hatchman
What is your source of this information?
#56
Originally Posted by FireFighterHill
Like said in previous statements if it doesnt meet the manufactors requirements it will void the warranty. And if you ruin the engine on a new car and they suspect oil is the reason i bet they would test the oil.
I don't see how Amsoil can get away with making statements like this all over the internet if they weren't true. People with blown motors would be sueing left and right, as well as Ford itself.
Question: My owners manual species 5W-20 oil. Do I really need to use 5W-20 oil and why did my 2000 model year vehicle require a 5W-30 oil, while the exact same engine in my 2001, 2002 and newer engines "requires" a 5W-20 oil?
Answer: You do not need to use a 5W-20 oil. Do not let your dealer scare you by telling you that you have to use it for your warranty. That is a tactic that some dealerships use to scare customers. Once you know the facts and the Federal Magnusson Moss Act law you will be much better informed to protect your rights and use the type of oil you want to use.
Question: Could using a 5W-30, 10W-30, 0W-30 or even a 10W-40 or 20W-50, oil in my vehicle which specifies a 5W-20 oil void my new car warranty?
Answer: Absolutely not. Vehicle manufacturers only recommend using motor oils meeting certain viscosity grades and American Petroleum Institute service requirements. Whether a motor oil is a 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30, 0W-30, 10W-40 or 20W-50 (for racing and high performance applications in, for example, a Cobra R Mustang) or even a synthetic vs. a petroleum based oil will not affect warranty coverage. The manufacturer is required by Federal Law to cover all equipment failures it would normally cover as long as the oil meets API service requirements and specifications and was not the cause of failure. In addition, the Federally mandated Magnuson - Moss Act states that a manufacturer may not require a specific brand or type of aftermarket product unless it is provided free of charge. If your dealership continues to tell you that you must use 5W-20 motor oil and or/ a specific brand of 5W-20 motor oil, then ask them to put it in writing. Their position is inaccurate, and, in fact violates existing law.*
Additionally, if there is ever a question of whether or not a particular motor oil was the cause of an engine failure make sure to get a sample of the used oil in a clean bottle, typically 6 oz. minimum. The oil can then be sent to two independent testing labs for analysis. This is standard procedure for most commercial vehicles, trucking, construction/excavation and fleet companies and there are numerous certified test labs all over the country. Remember, a knowledgeable and informed consumer is your best defense against being taken advantage of by a car dealership service center.
#57
I had my 5k oil change today.
1.) Motorcraft 5W-20 from FORD is "Semi-Synthetic".
2.) Due to increased tolerances on today's engines, you can run lighter viscosities and have adequate protection.
3.) Non-Synthetic fluids use friction modifiers to achieve a 30W value.
4.) Friction modifiers break down under hard use, therefore Synthetics are employed to resist break down under hard use and extend drain intervals.
5.) Your drain interval should be 5,000 miles per your owner's manual.
6.) Ford factory fill is fine for the 5,000 miles.
7.) My oil change cost me $19 today, usually it is $23.60 (without coupon).
8.) Synthetic goes for $5 a quart or more and the filter isn't free.
So, if you run your oil 5,000 miles and the Motorcraft is fine per FORD, then why pay more to run "synthetic" if you have to do the labor yourself and have to argue with everyone on the internet? I say put the money toward the extended warranty. That way you don't have to think/guess if your oil selection is doing justice for the money.
If you sell Amsoil, Redline, or Royal Purple, please do not argue with me, just ignore this message!
1.) Motorcraft 5W-20 from FORD is "Semi-Synthetic".
2.) Due to increased tolerances on today's engines, you can run lighter viscosities and have adequate protection.
3.) Non-Synthetic fluids use friction modifiers to achieve a 30W value.
4.) Friction modifiers break down under hard use, therefore Synthetics are employed to resist break down under hard use and extend drain intervals.
5.) Your drain interval should be 5,000 miles per your owner's manual.
6.) Ford factory fill is fine for the 5,000 miles.
7.) My oil change cost me $19 today, usually it is $23.60 (without coupon).
8.) Synthetic goes for $5 a quart or more and the filter isn't free.
So, if you run your oil 5,000 miles and the Motorcraft is fine per FORD, then why pay more to run "synthetic" if you have to do the labor yourself and have to argue with everyone on the internet? I say put the money toward the extended warranty. That way you don't have to think/guess if your oil selection is doing justice for the money.
If you sell Amsoil, Redline, or Royal Purple, please do not argue with me, just ignore this message!
#58
Originally Posted by shaun_beauchamp
then why pay more to run "synthetic" if you have to do the labor yourself and have to argue with everyone on the internet?
2)I don't like other people working on my car. They always get it dirty or scratch it. They just don't take care of it. The last time my car was at a Ford dealership, there were two techs SMOKING while hooking it up to the OBDII. They thought it was OK since they were holding the cigarette out the window.
3) I guess that's one of the things forums are for. Finding out what's good and bad, what works or doesn't, where to get the best deals, etc.
Maybe we're just buying 'piece of mind'.
I for one, like wasting money on my car anyway.
#59
Amsoil has that synthetic oil that is good for 35,000 miles - at least that's the claim.
Would you trust an oil for 35,000 miles in your precious 05/06 GT ???
I'm not comfortable with that claim and would not want to test it in my 05 GT.
Would you trust an oil for 35,000 miles in your precious 05/06 GT ???
I'm not comfortable with that claim and would not want to test it in my 05 GT.
#60
Originally Posted by LordBritish
Amsoil has that synthetic oil that is good for 35,000 miles - at least that's the claim.
Would you trust an oil for 35,000 miles in your precious 05/06 GT ???
I'm not comfortable with that claim and would not want to test it in my 05 GT.
Would you trust an oil for 35,000 miles in your precious 05/06 GT ???
I'm not comfortable with that claim and would not want to test it in my 05 GT.
That 35K is only for normal use, and the way I drive, I fall into the fleet or hard useage, which would be only 17,500 miles.
Waste of money, maybe, but I can live with that know my precious GT has some good honey in it.