Feedback about Tokico D-Specs - FYI
Bullitt Member
Joined: October 3, 2004
Posts: 271
Likes: 0
From: Montreal, Quebec
Guys
I am little confused about this, I have an FRPP handling kit and it's like driving a go kart and was thinking of going with D specs. I have heard that even on the softest setting they are still as bumpy as the FRPP shocks.
I ideally would like a shock set up that gives a reasonable ride for every day and go cart for track and weekend driving. Please help Idont want to drop another 500 for no improvment
I am little confused about this, I have an FRPP handling kit and it's like driving a go kart and was thinking of going with D specs. I have heard that even on the softest setting they are still as bumpy as the FRPP shocks.
I ideally would like a shock set up that gives a reasonable ride for every day and go cart for track and weekend driving. Please help Idont want to drop another 500 for no improvment
Remember, it is not the shocks that are really creating the harshness but the springs and there is so much the shocks can compensate.
Shelby GT500 Member
Joined: September 2, 2004
Posts: 2,594
Likes: 0
From: Chicago
I have not tried the FRPP kit but I can tell you this. With the Eibach Pro-kit springs, it is possible to tune the D-Specs to a soft setting resembling stock to a hard setting for the track. If you want to be sure, try to find out if the FRPP springs are similar to the Pro-kit. If they are similar to the Sportline than it is possible that even with the D-Spec, it will be bumpy.
Remember, it is not the shocks that are really creating the harshness but the springs and there is so much the shocks can compensate.
Remember, it is not the shocks that are really creating the harshness but the springs and there is so much the shocks can compensate.
Bullitt Member
Joined: October 3, 2004
Posts: 271
Likes: 0
From: Montreal, Quebec
I usually have them set 4 turns front and rear for the street except for the winter when I set them to about 6 turns to compensate for the cold temperature.
To give you an idea of the type of tracks I run. Here are 2 videos:
Le Circuit Mont-Tremblant: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sdpkiHoUUnc
Calabogie Motosports: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xW_QDoSEAI
Cobra Member
Joined: August 16, 2005
Posts: 1,079
Likes: 0
From: Central Coast, CA
If that is the case, what is your logic for such a stiff setting? It does not make any sense.
Even a smooth track is not as flat as a billiard table. I think you would find the car settles a lot better with softer settings, especially in a turn. If you were running extremely heavy spring rates, then full hard might be justified to control the rebound of a stiffer spring. As it is, you are over dampening your springs and the suspension, particularly the front and is generally not able to return to normal ride height all the time because you have it on full rebound damping.
Also with near full hard on the front struts you are inducing turn in understeer, which you have probably tried to mitigate with bigger rear sway bars?.
Softer to compensate for the rear axle? The rear axle on this car constitutes more unsprung weight (compare with a car with IRS). If anything it probably needs a little more damping to keep it under control when encountering even small bumps.
Even a smooth track is not as flat as a billiard table. I think you would find the car settles a lot better with softer settings, especially in a turn. If you were running extremely heavy spring rates, then full hard might be justified to control the rebound of a stiffer spring. As it is, you are over dampening your springs and the suspension, particularly the front and is generally not able to return to normal ride height all the time because you have it on full rebound damping.
Also with near full hard on the front struts you are inducing turn in understeer, which you have probably tried to mitigate with bigger rear sway bars?.
Softer to compensate for the rear axle? The rear axle on this car constitutes more unsprung weight (compare with a car with IRS). If anything it probably needs a little more damping to keep it under control when encountering even small bumps.
Bullitt Member
Joined: October 3, 2004
Posts: 271
Likes: 0
From: Montreal, Quebec
If that is the case, what is your logic for such a stiff setting? It does not make any sense.
Even a smooth track is not as flat as a billiard table. I think you would find the car settles a lot better with softer settings, especially in a turn. If you were running extremely heavy spring rates, then full hard might be justified to control the rebound of a stiffer spring. As it is, you are over dampening your springs and the suspension, particularly the front and is generally not able to return to normal ride height all the time because you have it on full rebound damping.
Also with near full hard on the front struts you are inducing turn in understeer, which you have probably tried to mitigate with bigger rear sway bars?.
Softer to compensate for the rear axle? The rear axle on this car constitutes more unsprung weight (compare with a car with IRS). If anything it probably needs a little more damping to keep it under control when encountering even small bumps.
Even a smooth track is not as flat as a billiard table. I think you would find the car settles a lot better with softer settings, especially in a turn. If you were running extremely heavy spring rates, then full hard might be justified to control the rebound of a stiffer spring. As it is, you are over dampening your springs and the suspension, particularly the front and is generally not able to return to normal ride height all the time because you have it on full rebound damping.
Also with near full hard on the front struts you are inducing turn in understeer, which you have probably tried to mitigate with bigger rear sway bars?.
Softer to compensate for the rear axle? The rear axle on this car constitutes more unsprung weight (compare with a car with IRS). If anything it probably needs a little more damping to keep it under control when encountering even small bumps.
As for the rear axle, since every movement from one rear wheel is transmitted to the other, you want to permit the unsprung heavy rear axle to follow the bumps and curves that's why you want a softer setting. This feeling is even more present when autocrossing.
I haven't touched the sway bars yet.
Cobra Member
Joined: July 26, 2007
Posts: 1,087
Likes: 1
From: Oregon
I believe they are equal to the pros. I have parked side by side to a shelby and mine is just a lil bit lower front and rear. infact I think I have a pic..standbye. There ya go. I have sportlines
Bullitt Member
Joined: October 3, 2004
Posts: 271
Likes: 0
From: Montreal, Quebec
Cobra Member
Joined: August 16, 2005
Posts: 1,079
Likes: 0
From: Central Coast, CA
I was thinking the Ebach Pro Kit came with front and rear bars?
The shock setting induced roll stiffness is transitional ... meaning it only slows down the roll, not eliminate it. You would be better off with stiffer bars and stiffer springs to control roll. No transitional stiffness like offered by a shock and does not create rebound lag.
My point on the rear axle is it has more unsprung mass, and when accelerated (bump) it takes more damping to control the axle (excessive bump travel). On bump, the diagonally opposite corner feels it (loads up) more than the opposite wheel.
The shock setting induced roll stiffness is transitional ... meaning it only slows down the roll, not eliminate it. You would be better off with stiffer bars and stiffer springs to control roll. No transitional stiffness like offered by a shock and does not create rebound lag.
My point on the rear axle is it has more unsprung mass, and when accelerated (bump) it takes more damping to control the axle (excessive bump travel). On bump, the diagonally opposite corner feels it (loads up) more than the opposite wheel.
The harder front settings are to reduce body roll and yes it creates more understeer but the increased camber (2 deg in my case) helps to compensate.
As for the rear axle, since every movement from one rear wheel is transmitted to the other, you want to permit the unsprung heavy rear axle to follow the bumps and curves that's why you want a softer setting. This feeling is even more present when autocrossing.
I haven't touched the sway bars yet.
As for the rear axle, since every movement from one rear wheel is transmitted to the other, you want to permit the unsprung heavy rear axle to follow the bumps and curves that's why you want a softer setting. This feeling is even more present when autocrossing.
I haven't touched the sway bars yet.
Thread Starter
V6 Member
Joined: September 9, 2006
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Monaco
I had the car aligned last week and steering immediately felt tighter, although not totally yet. So I drove it for another few days over which my new springs must have settled some more. Back to the shop, this time finer tweaks were made to camber and toe-in. Well you guessed it, what was left of that floaty steering is all GONE. Congrats, you nailed the issue right on.
Bullitt Member
Joined: August 13, 2007
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
I had the car aligned last week and steering immediately felt tighter, although not totally yet. So I drove it for another few days over which my new springs must have settled some more. Back to the shop, this time finer tweaks were made to camber and toe-in. Well you guessed it, what was left of that floaty steering is all GONE. Congrats, you nailed the issue right on.
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