I have to respectfully disagree with you on that.....you haven't seen me in action yet

Good luck, these guys wouldn't steer you wrong

 

Marriage?

 

I'm betting only the first few threads are buggered up. I'm sure you've got lots of good threads still down in there. A new bolt, good tap, and cutting oil and you should be good to go.

Been there, done that. KB supplied a screw that was too short for the alternator to attach to the supplied alternator bracket. Screw was steel, bracket was aluminum, bracket lost and I stripped the first few threads. Tapped the first few buggered threads out, bought a longer screw to get into more threads, and all was well.

 

Do we know each other already Steve???

 

 

Appreciate the vote of confidence, and yea, thats it exactly. Got the threads tapped, and it's nice and smooth now. Still a problem though. Unfortunately enough of the beginning thread where messed up so I can't get the install bolt to catch. Not sure if trying a helicoil is next, or just resigning myself to the fact the the car is gonna be off the road for long time while I save up for a new, forged crankshaft.

Anyone done helicoil repairs before?

 

Hmm somthings weird about the bolt not starting, When threads are re tapped and the bolt wont start makes me wonder, usually the first 2 threads would be loose not tight after a re tap. Let me also add, a bolt only needs enough threads as 2.5x the diameter, so example,a 1/2 bolt would needs a depth of full strenght of 1 1/2 inches deep,

 

Did you read step #18 here?
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=65956
Re-read the whole thread.

 

Yes, I read that sticky many, many times. At this point no instructions will help since they all include either threading the install tool or installation bolt, neither of which will reach what is left of the threads deeper in the snout.

 

I may not have described it properly, sorry. The tap did work, and I can start the bolt, but only without the pully on. With the pully on, I am assuming the abount of lost threads up front are enough that the install tool bolt will not reach with the additional width of the pulley.

The included install bolt might possible catch, but unfortunately the difference in pich is what caused the problem in the first place, and I am not having much luck finding a 12mm X 60mm with a 1.50 pitch bolt to use....

Looks like I really did a number on the thing.

 

Maybe you can take a brass hammer or heavy mallet (not steel) and try to tap the harmonic balancer on a bit more so the bolt will find some threads or get a longer bolt. Back in the day that's how I installed balancers when the engines were out of the cars.

 

I gave that some thought as well, buy without the right pitch on the install bolt, and no luck so far finding one with the correct pitch, not sure how much that will help me...

 

That is a excellent write up. Tacobill does really nce job. I dont know about 05-08 Mustangs but for our 2003-2004 Mach1s Underdrive pullies arent recomended, due to excessive vibrations traveling thru to oil pump causing failure.

 

If you don't need the bolt to be threaded up to its head, boltdepot.com has one (#6339)
http://www.boltdepot.com/product.asp...&cm=21&cd=1309

 

Thanks for that, looks like exactly what I need.

 

Glad you got the threads fixed! I think the main problem here is that you are using a bolt to install the balancer rather than a install tool. That is a recipie for disaster every time since even under the best condtions you are catching a couple threads before the balancer starts to press on. Those threads get a bunch of stress and are prone to damage.

Even if the install tool is a longer bolt and you use washers, etc. You still are gauling the threads on the crank when installing the ballancer when you tighten the bolt.

A proper install tool gets threaded into the crank either completely or at least an inch. Then you oil the contact surfaces lightly and bring down the nut against a thick washer which presses on the ballancer. Using this method. No damage or wear ever happens to the crank threads because you are threading the tool into the crank under no load and not trying to tighten it while pressing on the balancer. The tool may wear out one day. But the crank wont. Also the threads on the tool and steel it is made out of are likely a higher quality or heat treat than the crank and designed to take a bit more punishment.

The bolt is only really there as a (just in case) sort of thing.

This is a couple pics of what your install tool should look like (or similar). You can make one with parts from mcmaster.com. But can probably find one to buy just as easily.

 

What classj said. If everything is aligned correctly, you should be able to use that tool to properly install the balancer with no issues. Using a bolt (even an "installer bolt") is never a good idea. The proper tool doesn't cost that much and you probably can rent it very cheaply from a local auto parts house.

 

I appreciate the advice, and after tapping the hole I got the tool. Unfotuneatly, too little too late. The beginning thread were completely mangled due to the incorrect pitch of the install bolt. Since the good thread are too far back, then install tool can't grab on because of the with on the other end that screws into the handle.

I've moved on and will be attempting a helicoil install as soon as the weather eases up since I don't wnat my hands shaking from the cold while drilling!

Still have the install tool on loan so once I get the new threads in I will definately be using that to install the pulley.

I blam this all on TacoBill, he had to talk about felling closer to your car by doing your own work in his stickeys. I don't think I wanted to become this intimate this soon!!!!

 

I know that feeling all too well. But you have to look at it as you would a woman....you take the good with the bad BTW, if you need an extra pair of (Unknowledgable) hands I'm only about 25 min south of you, just give me a shout.

 

If there are some good threads left. I would order a longer piece of threaded rod from Mcmaster carr along with some nuts and just make the tool longer. Easy enough. I just looked. They sell it in 300mm lengths.

A helicoil may work. But the drilling by hand is a risky proposition with the engine in the car.