Earl's or Russel's Speed Bleeders
I have found russel's at Jegs and at Summit but I have been unable to find Earl's speed bleeders for the 05+ mustangs.
1) Does anyone know where to find the Earl's or will Russel's be fine?
2) Do you have P/N's?
I dont need them for race applications just thought it would make life easier so I can flush the system once a year or so.
1) Does anyone know where to find the Earl's or will Russel's be fine?
2) Do you have P/N's?
I dont need them for race applications just thought it would make life easier so I can flush the system once a year or so.
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Joined: January 9, 2005
Posts: 6,982
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From: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
I bought Earl's speed bleeders from here. Here is the part #. The picture is not correct. I don't know who's is better but my Earl's are just fine.
Scott
http://www.sportcompactonly.com/Ford...32_vy-2005.htm
Scott
http://www.sportcompactonly.com/Ford...32_vy-2005.htm
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Joined: January 9, 2005
Posts: 6,982
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From: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
Have the steeda hoses on the shelf awaiting install(since last fall
), bleeders, I want to do my brake setup all at the same time, I have D/S rotors from R1 concepts and pads as well. We'll flush the system with ATE Super Blue DOT4.
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Joined: January 9, 2005
Posts: 6,982
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From: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
I used Vavoline Dot 5 synthetic fluid. Pretty nice stuff. Compatible with all fluids.
Get the Earls--they are a nicer design. The Russells and Speedbleeders rely on thread sealant to keep air out of the system when you are bleeding. This means that you have to reapply thread sealant every so often to keep them working properly.
The Earls use a spring loaded plunger that seals the system against the hard line the instant there is no pedal pressure. Even if your threads are not sealed, it prevents any of the bubbles that sneak past the threads while bleeding from going into your lines--you'll see the bubbles, but they won't affect your bleed.
The Earls use a spring loaded plunger that seals the system against the hard line the instant there is no pedal pressure. Even if your threads are not sealed, it prevents any of the bubbles that sneak past the threads while bleeding from going into your lines--you'll see the bubbles, but they won't affect your bleed.
Get the Earls--they are a nicer design. The Russells and Speedbleeders rely on thread sealant to keep air out of the system when you are bleeding. This means that you have to reapply thread sealant every so often to keep them working properly.
The Earls use a spring loaded plunger that seals the system against the hard line the instant there is no pedal pressure. Even if your threads are not sealed, it prevents any of the bubbles that sneak past the threads while bleeding from going into your lines--you'll see the bubbles, but they won't affect your bleed.
The Earls use a spring loaded plunger that seals the system against the hard line the instant there is no pedal pressure. Even if your threads are not sealed, it prevents any of the bubbles that sneak past the threads while bleeding from going into your lines--you'll see the bubbles, but they won't affect your bleed.
Get the Earls--they are a nicer design. The Russells and Speedbleeders rely on thread sealant to keep air out of the system when you are bleeding. This means that you have to reapply thread sealant every so often to keep them working properly.
The Earls use a spring loaded plunger that seals the system against the hard line the instant there is no pedal pressure. Even if your threads are not sealed, it prevents any of the bubbles that sneak past the threads while bleeding from going into your lines--you'll see the bubbles, but they won't affect your bleed.
The Earls use a spring loaded plunger that seals the system against the hard line the instant there is no pedal pressure. Even if your threads are not sealed, it prevents any of the bubbles that sneak past the threads while bleeding from going into your lines--you'll see the bubbles, but they won't affect your bleed.
The bottle will last a lifetime.
Both bleeders have and rely on the same thread sealant. You can bleed your brakes six times before needing to reapply thread sealant. You can purchase thread sealant from Speed Bleeder® for about $10.00 +shipping.
The bottle will last a lifetime.
The bottle will last a lifetime.
I wouldn't be surprised if the Russell bleeders are the same as the Speed Bleeders. A lot of it depends on your needs. If you are bleeding once a year, then it won't matter which type you go with. For me, when time allows I may be at the track 2-4 days a month. That means a minimum of 2-4 brake bleeds a month. Reapplying the sealant starts to defeat the purpose--saving time. 
Are you using 5.1? Can we even use 5.1?
I chose to go with the ATE Super Blue(DOT 4) on recommendation on another forum, the RBF600 has also been a consideration. I always thought DOT5 was incompatable, but would thier be any other reason for a brake fluid such as ATE to be incompatable?
DOT5 is indeed incompatible, but DOT5.1 is fine.
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Joined: January 9, 2005
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From: New Carlisle, Ohio (20 miles north of Dayton)
ATE is great stuff and will be fine. If you flush your brakes frequently, you can alternate between the blue and the gold (ATE type 200) as they are the same fluid. The color change lets you know when you have replaced all the old fluid.
DOT5 is indeed incompatible, but DOT5.1 is fine.
DOT5 is indeed incompatible, but DOT5.1 is fine.
Wow...I hope the Valvoline Dot 5 fluid I used is okay. Maybe it was Dot 5.1 but I am not sure. It said it was compatible with all fluids and ABS brake systems.
I don't have the bottle anymore.
Last edited by 70MACH1OWNER; Jun 22, 2008 at 03:02 PM.
DOT 5 fluids are actually quite hard to find... And they are usually prominently labeled "Silicone Base". 5.1 is an ethylene glycol based fluid, like DOT 3, DOT 3/4 and DOT 4, but has boiling points more in line with the DOT 5 silicone based fluids, hence the moniker DOT 5.1.
Just to add to the bleeder fitting tech, the Earl's SoloBleed fittings are of a COMPLETELY different design than the Russel's/SpeedBleeder fittings. With the Russel, the spring loaded check ball is inside the bleeder, and fluid is sealed from the check valve by the machined base mating with the seat inside the caliper. With the Earl's, the entire base is spring loaded. When the Russel bleeder is "cracked open" for bleeding, and the pedal is released, the base is not wedged against the seat, and air can be sucked in past the threads on the fitting. With the Earl's design, when the bleeder is "cracked open," the base is still forced against the base in the caliper by spring pressure, and upon pedal release, there is no mechanism for air leakage into the system. Personally, I would call that a superior design. I've bled my brakes about a dozen times (and flushed twice) since I installed them, and there has been no incident of residual trapped air whatsoever.
On the brake fluid end of things, I run Motul RBF600, but I understand that the Castrol SRF is also excellent, and although it has a lower "wet" boiling point than the RBF, absorbs water more slowly, so the effective boiling point may be higher for a given amount of exposure time. Personally, I track my car often enough, and flush every six months anyway, so it has never been an issue for me.
Just to add to the bleeder fitting tech, the Earl's SoloBleed fittings are of a COMPLETELY different design than the Russel's/SpeedBleeder fittings. With the Russel, the spring loaded check ball is inside the bleeder, and fluid is sealed from the check valve by the machined base mating with the seat inside the caliper. With the Earl's, the entire base is spring loaded. When the Russel bleeder is "cracked open" for bleeding, and the pedal is released, the base is not wedged against the seat, and air can be sucked in past the threads on the fitting. With the Earl's design, when the bleeder is "cracked open," the base is still forced against the base in the caliper by spring pressure, and upon pedal release, there is no mechanism for air leakage into the system. Personally, I would call that a superior design. I've bled my brakes about a dozen times (and flushed twice) since I installed them, and there has been no incident of residual trapped air whatsoever.
On the brake fluid end of things, I run Motul RBF600, but I understand that the Castrol SRF is also excellent, and although it has a lower "wet" boiling point than the RBF, absorbs water more slowly, so the effective boiling point may be higher for a given amount of exposure time. Personally, I track my car often enough, and flush every six months anyway, so it has never been an issue for me.
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