Anyone able to help me out with(1) The Ranger driveshaft mod...or (2) What specs and hardware i need to have a 3" one piece steel driveshaft made. There is a company here where i live that makes driveshafts(steel only) for many applications including race. They said if i gave them the measurements and what i wanted they would make me one very reasonable. If they can do it...they said they would build more for those of you interested...i don't know about price...but they said it wouldn't be near 400plus dollars. I know they need to see what needs to be done to give me a more accurate price...but Maybe...this would work out for a low dollar driveshaft mod for everyone...i live in a small town...so they aren't used to charging real big dollars for stuff...lol Any Help out there? Thanks in advance

 

Why steel? Just a question... being that it will weigh more and be noisier/more prone to vibration than an aluminum unit. 4" Aluminum is probably in the area of 100 dollars more, for a stronger, sturdier at critical speed, quieter, and lighter driveshaft that only has fitment issues with Saleen adapter?

Just my opinion... I'd do it the right way and be done with it!

CR
Tillman Speed
610-497-3711

 

Remember what happend to the other guy who got a deal on a local made drive shaft, it broke and severely damaged his car (trans, floor pan, etc.)? Spend the bucks and go to a nationally known manufacturer of drive shafts.

 

Best advice I've heard in a while.

That car had what... 20k in damages? Rear, trans, floor pan, etc.

 

I use a shaft from Inland Truck Centers driveline shop. (Omaha Ne)

It was balanced to 7500 rpm and takes 758 hp / 545 ft lbs.

I launch the car at 8500 rpm and put the power down into 31/15.50
d1 compound Goodyear slicks.


125 passes and counting.

My point is that if the shop has their stuff together and can build it cheep
go for it.

Jay

 

The problem is keeping it cheap after doing it right

 

I paid less than $300 for mine and it came with oversized u joints and a new trans yolk.

I could get you the phone # if you want it.

Jay

 

Don't go with steel. It would be completly pointless.

 

While I agree with certain aspects of this as long as you are going with a quality proven piece, i.e. Spyder's aluminum driveshaft you can rest assured knowing it's another viable option. As for others out there or the DIY guys I'm not sure it's worth the trouble and possible problems down the road if not built properly.

 

We might as well open a "I bought this custom cheap driveshaft and all I got was this lousy totalled car" thread now.....

 

Hahaha ^

 

Yeah, "IF" ... how does the average guy evaluate if the shop has their act together?

where do they get thier material?
do they have an AWS qualified weld procedure?
do they have a welder qualified to that procedure?
do they maintain and have calibration records for the instruments on their welding equipment?
do they properly store thier welding materials?
do they have the capability and knowhow to do proper weld NDT?
do they have and know how to use their balancing equipmet?
is thier balancing equipment regularly calibrated for accuracy?
is the shop clean, organized and kept tidy?

 

To everyone and the opinions stated...thanks. I think i was thinking price and not possible dissaster! LOl Thanks again..i'll save my pennies for the good stuff!

 

Go for Powerhouse, BMR, Coast, or Driveshaft shop.

 

http://www.inlandtruck.com/driveline.html

They can gather info from people who have had either good or bad luck

For example the guy who had 15 k worth of damage( ya right)! I wouldnt buy from that shop.

But I know drag/ mud/ road/ rock crawlers /ect ect useing the shafts of the shop here it town or I wouldnt have brought it up. I use one myself in an 8 sec car that won the best engineered car of the show at Americruise in 03 ( out of 3500 cars).

We come here and other forums to spread info from our expieriances good or bad. The reason I even brought it up was because someone just said dont use the local guys they all suck, when i know for a fact that they all dont.


Jay

 

Certainly a good shop can do the job. I saw that thread about the guy with the failed driveshaft but I think that's a rare exception. Also he was aware of a vibration problem before it let go. They tried to correct it but it still had a vibration. Regardless of where the driveshaft came from I would never have continued driving it even with a small vibration. I have had custom driveshafts made for hot rods I have built and put them behind some very high hp big blocks and had no problems. On the other hand I ordered a Coast 4" aluminum unit from Tillman because of the quality and convenience. I think in a case where there is a high quality ready made assembly that is backed up by a warranty it's a good way to go but this wasn't the case with some of my project cars of the past. It really depends on your situation.
Just my 2 cents.

 

it all depends on where you live as to what is a "local shop". even i'm local if you live in the Balt./DC area.
i use a local shop to do my work and have never had any issues and they have built many shafts including my super gas/comp cars. they have state of the art balancing equipment and certified welders with the proper jigs and stuff.
the problem with our shafts is that it requires a slip joint since the trans has a companion flange similar to the differential. this is where it gets tricky. these cars are prone to vibrations and harmonics if that piece isn't engineered properly(thats why i leave that part to fomoco) so yeah your local shop could do it but do you want to be their test mule....and pay for it?
i'll be working on some type of an oem quality budget steel shaft soon.

 

Good to hear that you are working on a quality, budget steel ds for us budget-minded racers, Spyder!!! Oh, and FTW, a Chinese company is considering buy the Visteon ds plant in Monroe, MI, which, I think, is where the Mustangs' ds is built.