Hey gang just wondering if anybody had any pictures of there mustangs lowered aout 1'-1.5' and if so could they post them and how much did they pay for everything and what brand

 

springs 140......got them from used parts here like new eibach pro spring
Steeda bumbsteer kit 160
Tokico hd struts and shocks 300
camber bolts around 30 carquest
life time front end alignment 129 firestone
panhard ebay 95
home brew lca relocate brackets free. usally around 100
adjustable uca 100 fleebay again
upper strut mounts are around 250. I am sure you have seen the clunking struts posts. The noise doesn't get any worse or better nor is it unsafe ...so ford states.

I haven't spent that 250 yet hopeing to see some used ones.
Keep an eye on the parts section and ebay and you can save a few bucks

 

All parts ordered from StangSuspension.com
-StangSuspension Series II springs(1.75" front/1.5" rear)$190
-Steda heavy duty upper strut mounts $300
-Steeda adjustable panhard bar $180
Self install on all the parts-about 4 hours total

 

And figure about $500 to get everything realigned when you are done, unless you are a mechanic and can do all that yourself.

 

you don't have antything on your list to fix the bumpsteer you will have.


500 to realigne everything?? No way

 

This is a loaded question!.....Costs can have a wide range, As Glenn said in a previous post shop around! I have experimented quite a bit, As in 3 different sets of springs, 2 different sets of dampers and so on! I have about 1300 bucks in my currant set-up all labor done by myself except the front end aliments!

 

BMR adjustable poly/rod LCAs, BMR LCA relocation brackets, adjustable UCA, adjustable panhard rod, Tokico D-specs front and rear, BMR progressive springs (1.75" rear drop, 1.25" front), Steeda bump-steer rod ends, Steeda front lower control arm bushing inserts, BMR swaybars front and rear, partridge, pear tree, kitchen sink...

Functional too!



As for money, quite a bit. Probably around $2300. You could shave that a lot, if you're shooting for street performance, and not tracking the car.

As for the alignment, mine only ran $80 for a four-wheel job. When (if) you do your own install, you can get pretty close with a tape measure, bubble level, and your eyeballs...

 

I'm running FRPP lowering springs. They claim 1.5" all around. Springs were $220.00. I had a local shop install and align for about $400.00. Very pleased with the result.

 

I used the Prokit and have no bump steer. I didnt even need a panhard bar. Not all cars need them.

 

Nothing else either.

 

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=60937

There's all the stuff you need to know about lowering.

 

Eibach Pro, BMR LCA & adjustable panhard rod - I paid $220 for the springs (eBay), around $80 for the LCA (bought 'em at a FFW event straight from BMR), and just over $100 for the panhard rod (went to BMR's shop here locally and picked it up). Install only cost me $60 to rent the spring compressor and the labor was free courtesy of myself and a buddy of mine.

 

thats very very surprising.

 

Eibach Pro-kit $220
Eibach alignment bolts $20
Installation and alignment $300

 

FRPP FR-3 kit. $1300. They say 1.5 all around. I've never measured but it sure rides much rougher.

I sitll love it!

 

Thats more than surprising with the drop the Eibach's have! In fact its real close to being..

 

I dont have an adjustable panhard bar nor did I need the alignment bolts
my car is fine

 

LADIES AND GENTELMEN, I BRING TO YOU THE CAR WITH THE BEST STANCE OF A S197.

 

Not at all, not all cars need them, I've seen that posted many times.

Hopefully, I'll have some personal experience real soon...

 

The panhard rod issue is simple physics... If we assume that the axle is centered properly under the chassis with stock suspension, then ANY lowering (or raising, for that matter) will necessarily shift the axle location. Period. the panhard rod is a fixed link, running parallel to the long axis of the axle, with mount points at the frame at the passenger's side, and on the axle at the driver's side. As the suspension moves upward (same thing as hitting a bump, or lowering the car), the length of the rod will force the axle towards the driver's side. There's no getting around this one, kids.

I personally think the whole "some cars don't need it" paradigm stems from a combination of two different factors. Manufacturing tolerance could allow some of the cars produced to be incorrect from the factory, which are then "corrected" by the drop. The other is the human factor, where some can't tell if it's off, or simply don't care. Personally, I can spot the shifted axle position a mile away. It's not an issue that will cause drivability problems (in general), but the condition still exists.

Same situation up front with camber angles. Once the car drops, the camber will change. Perhaps it still falls within the factory spec-range, perhaps it doesn't. If, after 5000 miles, you notice accelerated wear on the inside edge of the tire tread, that would be your only sign that the angle is "off." Except in extreme cases, or with large side-to-side differentials, you won't notice camber being off when driving the car.

In the end, it's up to the individual what they are looking for out of the lowering kit. I would, at a minimum, suggest camber bolts and a panhard rod, and if you're going hard-core with it, LCA brackets, adjustable UCA, X-5 ball joints and a bump-steer kit, to get the roll centers back where they're supposed to be.