dangit dan, i thought I had this down, now you are scaring me.

 

Hey, here's the step by step from my Ford employees only Shop Manual.

http://snt-systems.com/temp/camshaft_removal.pdf

-Dan

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(emperorjordan @ April 27, 2006, 4:10 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
so yeah, doug does have cams in stock and ready to ship, becuase i talked to him about getting them now or waiting.... so don, which ones were you looking at getting? i was waiting for somebody to get them in first so I can hear if they are agressive enough for my tastes..... if you get it running before doug...... dangit, i wanted to be the first one to do it. lol. [/b][/quote]

Even if I had new cams in my hand right now, I wouldn't expect to hear them run in my engine for a few more weeks.

And before I decide which one to get, I need some more info. How they sound is irrelevant to me, I want optimum performance. Sometimes less is more... right? Anyway, I still have unanswered questions about springs, retainers, the depth of the relief cuts in my pistons, yada, yada, yada. I know the custom pistons I ordered are cut deeper than the stock pistons, but I don't know how much valve lift they can handle. I also don't know the specs on the springs. And whatever grind I get, it needs to be the best one for my blower application.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Cleveland @ April 27, 2006, 6:49 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Those are answers only an experienced tuner can come up with. Dont take our words on any of it, if you $%&# up with variable cam timing, your engine is boned.

-Dan
[/b][/quote]
I don't think the varible cam timing is adjustable. I think it is oil pressure controlled. There for I don't think you can screw that up. The gears should all be marked for alignment when installed. I think you can do it with the right tools. Taking everything apart and putting it back together will be time consuming for sure. Take your time and keep all parts labeled. If you can do gears you can do this.

 

Thank you Bret, you have given me confidence again, weather false or not, I guess I will find out. My plan was to get it at top dead center, then paint pen mark the gears and chain, and just make sure everything goes back the same way.

and thanks dan for that pdf, im gonna check it out later tonite.

what else needs to be removed to get to the cams? the manifold? anything else more complicated that a part of the manual might help me with?

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Firedude @ April 27, 2006, 5:28 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
I don't think the varible cam timing is adjustable. I think it is oil pressure controlled. There for I don't think you can screw that up. The gears should all be marked for alignment when installed. I think you can do it with the right tools. Taking everything apart and putting it back together will be time consuming for sure. Take your time and keep all parts labeled. If you can do gears you can do this.
[/b][/quote]
Yeah, you can screw it up. You can damage the cam phaser for one. If you had a shop manual to read through Im sure you would see it as I do.

-Dan

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Cleveland @ April 28, 2006, 1:45 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Yeah, you can screw it up. You can damage the cam phaser for one. If you had a shop manual to read through Im sure you would see it as I do.

-Dan
[/b][/quote]
Come on Dan, help me out. I am building him up and you are tearing him back down [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/icon_mrgreen.gif[/img] . All kidding aside. I think anyone with some skills, the book, and right tool can do anything. I would think that you could do it also after seeing your Nitrous install [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img] .

 

Well from seeing the PDF you have to get the heads off the car to do the install. So if you are doing that you might as well tear down the whole engine and throw in a 5.0 stroker kit with forged rods and 11:1 pistons. then put in the nasty cams in. But yeah you have to get the heads off so you have to tear down the whole top end from what I can see. And the cams look like that have a keyway for the VCT. But I would have to pull my motor appart to really be able to tell you how easy or hard these cams would be to do yourself. I have tons of mechanical know how but I just dont have the time or money to do something like cams or even gears. But Im sure that you would be able to do cams if you are good at putting things back together the way they came appart. I know that I am and I would do them myself. The only thing that I would be concerned about is the tune. The VCT would have to be adjusted for the new cams quite a bit from looking at those cam specs. Good luck to you and Cant wait to hear those cams.

 

Just read an article in the september 2005 Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords Magazine that Shows them changing the cams in a 4v DOHC 98 Cobra. To change the valve springs without the valves falling in they pumped up the cylinder that they were working on with compressed air. Then they were able to remove the locks, retainers, and springs and install the new ones. This will enable changing of the new springs without removal of the cylinder heads.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Cleveland @ April 27, 2006, 3:47 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'> Well, to pull the heads, the front engine cover has to come off so you either have to pull the motor or fight the limited amount of room in the engine bay.

-Dan [/b][/quote]

Thanks, Dan.

 

ya know what, forget about the cams and go play with that tasty little thing in your avatar. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/icon_mrgreen.gif[/img]

-Dan

 

Here is a video of a cam install on a 2V good vid very useful if you want to do it yourself.
http://www.mustangboards.com/videos/12042-...tall-video.html

also some other useful links about cam install.

http://forums.modulardepot.com/showthread....threadid=48430&
http://www.modulardepot.com/?show=articlesdet&aid=32


http://www.modulardepot.com/?show=articlesdet&aid=39

I know that all of these are for 2V's but might be useful.

 

haha, good idea dan, I think I will go do that tonite. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/nixon.gif[/img]

but, the heads dont have to come off to install the cams. and dan, ya got any other parts of that manual that you could share that might help me out? either to increase my knowledge or freak me out enough to get it done pro?

jake, I love you.

 

Does anyone have the specs on the stock 3V cams? I'm mostly interested in the max valve lift.

 

ok I have asked many people about this and nobody can really give me a straight answer. so after I install my cams, myself or pro, I am gonna have to take it to a dyno shop. Do I trailor it, or is it safe to drive? I know its gonna run like total poo, and probably keep stalling out when I stop, but if I take it really easy, is there anything I can hurt by driving it to get tuned?

and I have gotten different stories, some places say the heads have to come off if I replace the springs, in which case its over $1000 in labor, other places like chicane dont need to take em off. Then apexmotorsports in frisco said they wont install them becuase they are absolutely worthless power wise and wont pass smog. Well, I am doing this mostly for the sound, secondly for the power gain, and as far as smog goes...... I was under the impression that any motor can be tuned to pass smog...... either way, i dont really care about the smog thing.

 

I thought you were going to get Doug's tune with the cams... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/headscratch.gif[/img]

 

Its at least 3 weeks out, that was my plan, but even if I do, I still think I should get it dynoed.... dont you?

I am thinking of getting them sooner and getting the car tuned, depending on how much it will cost. I am just throwing ideas around. I have the money set aside now, and when i get to that point, I get VERY impatient to get what I want, so I am trying to figure out what the best thing to do is.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(emperorjordan @ April 28, 2006, 12:43 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Its at least 3 weeks out, that was my plan, but even if I do, I still think I should get it dynoed.... dont you?
[/b][/quote]

Your previous question was about driving it after the install. If you had Doug's tune, you should be fine driving like that. And if you decided to wanted a custom dyno tune, you wouldn't have to worry about getting it there safely. That was my point.

 

BUT I DONT WANNA WAIT 3 or more weeks!!!!!!! doug doesnt even have his car back yet, then when he does, the guy from comp cams has to come down, do the install, then doug needs time to dyno it and get results, then develop a tune, and he said its at least 3 weeks out. I am very impatient, and lots of people said mail order tunes arent that great when you get more serious like cams, so I should get a custom tune anyway....... I really dont know what to do. How much do you usually pay to get it tuned?

 

Well... then I guess it's either time or money... which do you have more of? [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/icon_mrgreen.gif[/img]

And I never said I have paid to have my car tuned. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/cool.gif[/img]