Coast Driveline Aluminum Driveshafts - UPDATED
2/7/07, 10:08 AM
#41
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Hey CR,
Any word on when you’ll post the pictures of the spots on the drive shaft tunnel that may need to be “massaged” on lowered Mustangs? I'm teetering on the fence regarding this mod, and want to get an idea of what potential clearance issues I may encounter after installing my Eibach springs. How much test driving did you do on the Mustang you installed the shaft on in the pictures? I’m not sure what springs are on the car but it looks like it’s been lowered. Did you drive on rough roads and give it some heavy acceleration and deceleration? Were there any rub marks on the drive shaft after the test drives? I’m usually not an early adopter but I've spent a bazillion bucks on mods for the spring, what’s a few more right…?
Any word on when you’ll post the pictures of the spots on the drive shaft tunnel that may need to be “massaged” on lowered Mustangs? I'm teetering on the fence regarding this mod, and want to get an idea of what potential clearance issues I may encounter after installing my Eibach springs. How much test driving did you do on the Mustang you installed the shaft on in the pictures? I’m not sure what springs are on the car but it looks like it’s been lowered. Did you drive on rough roads and give it some heavy acceleration and deceleration? Were there any rub marks on the drive shaft after the test drives? I’m usually not an early adopter but I've spent a bazillion bucks on mods for the spring, what’s a few more right…?
That is actually pictures from coast drivelines car they tested it on with a coilover 3" drop. They used it on a road racing course, and there was PLENTY of heavy accelerating and decelerating!! There was absolutely no problems with rubbing. There were no rub marks on the driveshaft.
We installed one that we sold only a day or two before we posted this.
99% of the people with lowered vehicles will have no issues, but for precaution there is a small fix that everyone could do. As the driveshaft exits the back tunnel, there is a bolt holding the emergency brake cable. Ford engineers just bolted it there to make it easy. Unbolt that cable, move it over about 1 1/2" and bolt it back in. That's all! Will not have any affect on the cable (readjustment, etc.)
People with EXTREMELY lowered vehicles may have to do the following... Again, though, everyone could just as precautionary measures to make sure they don't have problems.
In the middle of the floor tunnel, there is a stamping approximately 3/4" x 4" wide. Bump this down flat using a rubber mallot, or whatever you prefer. And one last spot...
Back where that emergency cable bolt was you'll find a 2" by 3/8" wide lip. Bump that up flat and you're done!
Now everyone can do these modifications if they want. This way you could pile 4 fat people into the back seat and still have no issues with rubbing or clearance. Most people will not have to get into this.
We did all three of the above in LITERALLY 5 minutes. That's why I kept saying it's a 5 minute fix!
CR
Tillman Speed
2/7/07, 10:13 AM
#42
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i agree with you on never using a junkyard driveshaft. why when you could buy the newest version from ford. it will cost more than $165 though. i've done a bunch of those for members here and it's about $475-500 when using new stuff and done correctly( tig welded on a fixture and computer rebalanced).
2/7/07, 10:34 AM
#43
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I have some Sphon adjustable LCAs in the basement so I should be set. Just need some warm weather (my 14 year old is dirving me nuts wanting to work on the car in the cold).
2/7/07, 10:36 AM
#44
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CR
Tillman Speed
2/7/07, 12:21 PM
#47
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The weight of this driveshaft is roughly 17 pounds. They use all dana spicer hardware, and are capable of easily handling numbers like 700hp+. They help with acceleration and getting up to RPMs quicker. This piece makes the car feel like a 30hp difference! It's really a nice unit. Has been tested on road race cars up to 128mph with no vibration, and excellent acceleration and deceleration with the lightened rotational mass.
These were made by Coast Driveline out of California who has been doing business since 1975-76 and has been supplying shafts to major companies such as Spicer, Richmond, etc. The guys there are truly genious' when it comes to driveline modifications. You should jump on this modification, as it will be a huge improvement over stock!
CR
Tillman Speed
These were made by Coast Driveline out of California who has been doing business since 1975-76 and has been supplying shafts to major companies such as Spicer, Richmond, etc. The guys there are truly genious' when it comes to driveline modifications. You should jump on this modification, as it will be a huge improvement over stock!
CR
Tillman Speed
2/7/07, 02:34 PM
#48
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The driveshaft was installed today on the magazine car for the photo shoot! They are going to go like crazy when the article comes out. Great way to be ahead of the rush and the pricing!!!
CR
Tillman Speed
CR
Tillman Speed
2/7/07, 03:27 PM
#49
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Anyone who buys Coast Driveline Driveshaft gets 10% off the MSD DashHawk! That's $270 for the DashHawk or a total of $859.99 SHIPPED TO THE DOOR!!!
2/7/07, 03:47 PM
#51
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If you have any problems with them, Coast Driveline is very good with warranty issues. They use all name brand components, who actually warrant their products.
Coast Driveline has been in business since 1975, they're great guys who can answer any questions, and know their stuff!!!
CR
Tillman Speed
Coast Driveline has been in business since 1975, they're great guys who can answer any questions, and know their stuff!!!
CR
Tillman Speed
2/7/07, 03:53 PM
#52
Cobra Member
If you have any problems with them, Coast Driveline is very good with warranty issues. They use all name brand components, who actually warrant their products. There are a few other companies who are putting together 3" shafts that are junk components. They dont have a 4" shaft which is also NEEDED for stability. High horsepower vehicles at high speeds will need that 4" shaft.
Coast Driveline has been in business since 1975, they're great guys who can answer any questions, and know their stuff!!!
CR
Tillman Speed
Coast Driveline has been in business since 1975, they're great guys who can answer any questions, and know their stuff!!!
CR
Tillman Speed
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/html/ford_mustang.html
Richard
2/7/07, 04:41 PM
#56
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The reason these shafts are 4" isn't because of stability, it's because they are made of aluminum. If these shafts were 3" they wouldn't be able to withstand much force.
This is why they need to be 4" as opposed to the steel 3" shafts.
Don't give out false info again man.
Why would you say:
How can you say if someone will have problems in a few months running someone elses shaft? Do you have info on this other shaft about it going bad that we don't know of?
The only people who care about the magazine coverage are the people who are easily persuaded by the hype! Magazines ALWAYS inflate the numbers and they all have their favorites.
If someone buys this shaft based on the magazine coverage, they shouldn't be this far into mods anyways! That or they have more money than sense.
Real world experiance is what counts, not big dollar companies who throw out free products to magazines for exposure.
It's already known that B&M will have an article along side with this shaft, so why would Chris mention any issues with the shaft. You're best to brag about an unbiased opinion. Not someone who is dipping into the same pockets as Coastline...
This is why they need to be 4" as opposed to the steel 3" shafts.
Don't give out false info again man.
Why would you say:
How can you say if someone will have problems in a few months running someone elses shaft? Do you have info on this other shaft about it going bad that we don't know of?
The only people who care about the magazine coverage are the people who are easily persuaded by the hype! Magazines ALWAYS inflate the numbers and they all have their favorites.
If someone buys this shaft based on the magazine coverage, they shouldn't be this far into mods anyways! That or they have more money than sense.
Real world experiance is what counts, not big dollar companies who throw out free products to magazines for exposure.
It's already known that B&M will have an article along side with this shaft, so why would Chris mention any issues with the shaft. You're best to brag about an unbiased opinion. Not someone who is dipping into the same pockets as Coastline...
Richard
2/7/07, 04:44 PM
#57
Legacy TMS Member
Really.......... what diameter is the stock shaft?
Also in your previous thread, you implied that you've installed this shaft on a S197 with no problems but I asked if you had actually done so, and you never responded. Have you installed one or not? Curious about the results........
2/7/07, 04:58 PM
#60
Cobra Member
As far as beefy U-joints go... DANA SPICER. That's as good as it gets, period!
The "series" of a driveshaft or universal joint is determined by the actual dimensions of the u-joint. While the front and rear u-joint can be of two different sizes the shaft is only as strong as the smaller one. The 1310 series u-joint measures approximately 3 1/4 inches wide. The 1330 and 1350 both measure approximately 3 5/8 wide. The 1310 and 1330 series can have cap diameters of 1 1/16 and/or 1 1/8 inch or a combination of both sizes. The 1350 series has a cap diameter of 1 3/16 inch and the body and journals are bigger than the 1310 or 1330. Remember 1350 is almost never found in production car driveshafts.
Again i am not bashing Coast but i think it is only fair that when you come and say that they are the best period that it be correct info. I also think that when you say all the 3"hafts on the market are junk that you should also know for fact NOT opinion what you are talking about. There are many people on all forums that are new to modding in general and when they see someone such as yourself saying something they take it as the Gospel and You as a Seller owe it to them and all of us to know what your talking about. Those newbies also tend to take your word over some of us that have more real world experience just because you are a Aftermarket Product Seller which is sad. You should not make things worse. I am not trying to attack/bash you. I actually do not know you so that would be stupid of me to do. But the people need to know this type of stuff and not be taken in by all the "HYPE"
Richard