Great writeup but there is no way I would get under a car without having it on axle stands. I realize they can be a pain sometimes due to limiting access. I trust my jack but not with my life.

 

Axle stands? Oh, you mean floor jack stands!

C'mon Rob, you know me better than that. I took these pics, but didn't post them in the original write-up.

 

Hey Bill...
I am not sure mind you. But I think it looked like I saw some dust and maybe a little rust on the underbelly of your car. Not trying to alarm but that's not like you.
Scott

 

Dirt you say Scott, not sure how that happens when the GQ never sees the light of day......................

But I think your right, Bill needs to jack it up and get under it again and get busy detailing it till it shines

Bill the King of detail

I also would like to add Bill is the King of safety and sets a good example for all of us (OK Bill send the $10 to my paypal account)

 

My apologies Bill. From the first pic's angles, it appeared there weren't any supporting devices (axle stands - jack stands). I can clearly see from those pics you had them on the subframes. It just struck me as odd since you are so meticulous about everything. I should have known you wouldn't miss any details.

 

You did see some dust! Darn garage door was open all day and the dust blew in.



No problem Phil!
(Just as soon as you PayPal me the $100 for all the technical advisement. )



No problem Rob. Just happy you pointed it out incase others think about scooting under the car with just a jack.

 

Yikes, $10 escalates to $100, next it will be $1000

There is a trend developing, hmmmmmmmmmmmmm

 

Hey Bill, do you have a better shot of where you are placing the rear jack stands?

 

I place it directly under a threaded insert in the frame, you'll see it when you look up in that general area.

 

How wobbly is it?
You have half on the tile & half no tile.

 

It's stable. If it were teetering from left to right, that's another story.

 

Very Nice write-up.....

 

Another great write up Bill! I just finished installing a dennys unit in mine last weekend looks to be nearly identical as far as the install goes. That adaptor flange mating to the pinion is the key to zero vibrations. The buttometer for me says that the car feels about a 10th faster. The best way I know to describe the difference is like the car had the AC on and felt "heavy" and after the shaft felt like I turned the AC off.

 

Bill, can you tell me what brand jack and stands you use and if your happy with them?

I would like to prepare to start working on my car and I want to make sure that I get the proper equipment because I already have great instructions!!!

 

Me Too and Mr.Tillman what sbout these shims that Bill had to use , with regards to the right up with your link saying ready to go kinda thing ? ps the UPS would that include BC, Canada ?

 

I have a Craftsmen aluminum racing jack (~$160) that I mostly use. Jack stands are also Craftsmen. The yellow ones are tall heavy duty types, the red are smaller ones. The side floor jack (blue anodized) is a 'cheapie' from Harbor Freight, it's small but does the job.

Of course, there are better lifting equipments out there, but for the price and quality, the Craftsmen series isn't too bad.



Thanks David.

Yes, the Coast guys also told me that the key to a vibration free DS is in the pinion adapter. That's why I was sure to clean that flange surface really well to avoid the adapter from sitting unevenly on it.


Completed the install today. New 0.350" shim is in place along with longer bolts and everything is fine, no riding conditions between the safety loop and MGW shifter block.

I was able to safely turn the shifter block out to 5 turns too.

Took the car out for a short test drive mainly to check for anything wierd (vibrations, etc.). Couldn't open her up on the highway because of traffic, but I went to my secret proving grounds and got up to 80 and no vibrations!

I didn't do any hard 'off the line' launches, but I can tell that it feels lighter under there. Also noticed that the car doesn't engine brake as slowly as it used to (it coasts faster in gear now).

Until I get on it, I can't say whether or not this was a good cost vs SOTP mod. At worst, it'll look good on my show poster.



The shim only applies to the BMR safety loop and the MGW shifter.

If you have or planning on getting a MGW shifter and a BMR loop, you'll need to shim it, otherwise the shifter block will bang into the loop.
Also will need longer bolts than the ones supplied with the BMR loop. Supplied length is 1" Grade 8. I got some 1 1/2" long Grade 8 bolts from Lowes; length was perfect.

New pics from today...

 

I'm assuming that you only need the longer bolts if you are shimming the loop because of the MGW shifter, right?

 

That is correct Rich.

No MGW shifter.. no shim required.

 

Bill, I always enjoy reading your How-To writeups. Some of the quirks with the products are constant reminders (to me, at least) of why I prefer to stick with OEM/stock parts. The OEMs spend countless man-hours testing and qualifying components for the vehicle. The smaller aftermarket vendors use people's cars as test mules and churn out revisions as needed. While that's fine if you have time to tinker with stuff, I prefer drop-in/certified replacement parts that are good enough for the OEMs to select. The stock 2-piece steel shaft is good for at least 145 mph so I don't see any real reason for me to swap it out at this point. The BMR brace looks very sturdy but the hardware that comes with the brace looks ready to rust at any moment. Go stainless or go home is what I say.

 

Bill, thanks for the info and what is next on the mod list?