Clutch, Flywheel, Shifter, and Driveshaft installed today
9/19/06, 04:49 PM
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Clutch, Flywheel, Shifter, and Driveshaft installed today
Parts list:
Powerhouse Aluminum Driveshaft
Pro 5.0 Shifter
Spec Stage 3+ Clutch/Pressure Plate
Spec Aluminum Flywheel
The old driveshaft came out really easy. no issue really at all here and this was out first step. You must save the front screws. they are a 12pt 12mm bolt head. these will be reused. You remove the rear bolts and discard them or put them to the side. They will not be removed. We then disconnected the O2 sensors and removed them and then removed the Off road H pipe.
Next up we removed all of the wiring on the tranny. the reverse lamps, Speed sensor, O2 connectors all had to be disconnected and the wires removed from the plastic clips that hold them to the tranny. was a pretty simple job here although a tige fit for big hands. We then disconnected the hydraulic line the tranny and watched all of the fluid hemmorage out of the line. we couldnt find a way to stop it so we let it all go. we also removed the tranny fluid for less weight removing it and it was time to change it anyway.
We removed the ***** and Moan, errr B&M shifter from the car next to make more room in the tranny tunnel for the car. we also removed the stock linkage arm to the tranny.
First off let me say fords service manual sucks. they claim 8 bolts to secure the tranny to the car and it is only 7. They also claim 2 for the starter and there are 3. I figured 1 of the 3 starter bolts would also hold the tranny, which would make ford correct. NOPE! spent way too much time looking for the mystery "8th bolt". We removed the starter and using wire, hung it up and out of the way. we tied it right above the header flange. We also removed all of that Knuckle shredder/heat shield stuff as well to prevent us from getting cut as we guided the tranny out.
We loosened all the bolts to the tranny and removed them. we also removed the 2 bolts to the inspection plate as well as when we tried removing the tranny the inspection plate wouldnt budge near the top of the tranny so we removed the plate from the equation by unbolting it. With the tranny loosned up we shimmied it side to side to get it to move and once it started we pulled back on it.
Another great Ford service manual blooper here. They state to pull straight back and then lower the tranny down. It does NOT work like this at all. The Tranny tunnel isnt large enough to fit the top of the tranny when you pull it back. We pulled it back as far as we could and when we saw the input shaft clear of the stock clutch/flywheel we tilted the back of the tranny down and pushed the unit back towards the engine a bit and then we were able to lower it down on an angle without causing any damage to the car.
With the tranny down, we started to loosen the bolts to the pressure plate. This was pretty easy and they broke free without too much force at all. we removed the pressure palte and the clutch disc and set aside.
The flywheel was another story. all but one bolt holding it inwere already loose. i was able to undo them all by hand except for one which we had to use a rachet on. They are all supposed to be torqued down so that was a bit alarming. nevertheless we removed the flywheel and set aside as well.
This tranny looked and felt like an auto to me based on its weight and size
This is what we were left with:
Next we installed the flywheel and clutch disc with the alignment tool provided. We torqued down all of the bolts to factory spec. We then installed the pressure palte which was easy to line up. DO NOT USE THE SHIM THAT COMES WITH THE CLUTCH I CANT MAKE THAT ANY MORE CLEAR!!!!!!!!!!
this is how it looked:
We then changed the clutch slave cylinder. mine was not showing signs of leaking or wear but with the tranny down, its better to be safe then sorry. it is the green thing in the pic below wit hthe hydraulic line and the cap around the input shaft:
With all of this out of the way, we reinstalled the transmission into the car. it went in 20x easier than coming out due to fords crappy instructions. got it in 1 shot. bolted this back up and the starter back in and this was set. dont forget the 2 inspection plate screws as well if you removed them.
With the tranny back in place, we installed the Pro 5.0 Shifter. pretty straightfoward. make sure to use locktite on the bolts. we reinstalled the factory shift linkage arm and connected it to the shifter.
Next was the Powerhouse Driveshaft. We installed the flange adapter in the rear of the car and torqued the bolts to spec. we then inserted the driveshaft from the rear of the car moving towards the front and bolted the unit to the tranny. we compressed the shaft a bit and got the back lined up and bolted that down as well.
We reconnected all of the tranny wires we disconnected before. we installed the H pipe again and reinstalled all of the O2 sensors as well. Got the rear tips lined up perfectly this time too.
We refilled the tranny fluid and changed the oil and S/C oil as well while we were at it.
We were gonig to start the EH2O pump but we were running out of time.
Anyway the car drives great, the SOTP feeling is incredible. Got my heart beating liek the first time i drove the car with the S/C, and the day i picked up the car. No vibrations in the shaft as far as i can tell. got her up to 120 on the freeway to test that. The shifter is perfect. 1-2, 2-3, and 3-4 shifts are incredibly fast and easy. it takes some effort to get it into 5th and reverse as compared to the B&M but not substantially.
The clutch is pretty on or off at first but with a few miles it is getting easier to handle. im also getting used to it. hitting the gears hard at redline is no problem. i am thinknig i will install a hurts handle on the pro 5.0 shifter as its a little longer. the pro 5.0 sits a bit low for me, even on the higher setting.
to my credit i only stalled ocne wit hthe new clutch so far. it is pretty strong. i would recommend it to anyone however by my initial experience.
I would liek to thank David my buddy for lending me his time, and mroe importantly his lift to make this job doable.
I would also like to thank Lightning Performance on the great deal on the shifter and Jan at InMotion Perf for the amazing deal on the clutch and flywheel combo. LAst but not least, Josh and Kevin from PMP for the awesome Group Buy on the Powerhouse Aluminum Driveshaft.
ps heres a link to my burnout video made in Daves Driveway
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BX626nqF9LY
Powerhouse Aluminum Driveshaft
Pro 5.0 Shifter
Spec Stage 3+ Clutch/Pressure Plate
Spec Aluminum Flywheel
The old driveshaft came out really easy. no issue really at all here and this was out first step. You must save the front screws. they are a 12pt 12mm bolt head. these will be reused. You remove the rear bolts and discard them or put them to the side. They will not be removed. We then disconnected the O2 sensors and removed them and then removed the Off road H pipe.
Next up we removed all of the wiring on the tranny. the reverse lamps, Speed sensor, O2 connectors all had to be disconnected and the wires removed from the plastic clips that hold them to the tranny. was a pretty simple job here although a tige fit for big hands. We then disconnected the hydraulic line the tranny and watched all of the fluid hemmorage out of the line. we couldnt find a way to stop it so we let it all go. we also removed the tranny fluid for less weight removing it and it was time to change it anyway.
We removed the ***** and Moan, errr B&M shifter from the car next to make more room in the tranny tunnel for the car. we also removed the stock linkage arm to the tranny.
First off let me say fords service manual sucks. they claim 8 bolts to secure the tranny to the car and it is only 7. They also claim 2 for the starter and there are 3. I figured 1 of the 3 starter bolts would also hold the tranny, which would make ford correct. NOPE! spent way too much time looking for the mystery "8th bolt". We removed the starter and using wire, hung it up and out of the way. we tied it right above the header flange. We also removed all of that Knuckle shredder/heat shield stuff as well to prevent us from getting cut as we guided the tranny out.
We loosened all the bolts to the tranny and removed them. we also removed the 2 bolts to the inspection plate as well as when we tried removing the tranny the inspection plate wouldnt budge near the top of the tranny so we removed the plate from the equation by unbolting it. With the tranny loosned up we shimmied it side to side to get it to move and once it started we pulled back on it.
Another great Ford service manual blooper here. They state to pull straight back and then lower the tranny down. It does NOT work like this at all. The Tranny tunnel isnt large enough to fit the top of the tranny when you pull it back. We pulled it back as far as we could and when we saw the input shaft clear of the stock clutch/flywheel we tilted the back of the tranny down and pushed the unit back towards the engine a bit and then we were able to lower it down on an angle without causing any damage to the car.
With the tranny down, we started to loosen the bolts to the pressure plate. This was pretty easy and they broke free without too much force at all. we removed the pressure palte and the clutch disc and set aside.
The flywheel was another story. all but one bolt holding it inwere already loose. i was able to undo them all by hand except for one which we had to use a rachet on. They are all supposed to be torqued down so that was a bit alarming. nevertheless we removed the flywheel and set aside as well.
This tranny looked and felt like an auto to me based on its weight and size
This is what we were left with:
Next we installed the flywheel and clutch disc with the alignment tool provided. We torqued down all of the bolts to factory spec. We then installed the pressure palte which was easy to line up. DO NOT USE THE SHIM THAT COMES WITH THE CLUTCH I CANT MAKE THAT ANY MORE CLEAR!!!!!!!!!!
this is how it looked:
We then changed the clutch slave cylinder. mine was not showing signs of leaking or wear but with the tranny down, its better to be safe then sorry. it is the green thing in the pic below wit hthe hydraulic line and the cap around the input shaft:
With all of this out of the way, we reinstalled the transmission into the car. it went in 20x easier than coming out due to fords crappy instructions. got it in 1 shot. bolted this back up and the starter back in and this was set. dont forget the 2 inspection plate screws as well if you removed them.
With the tranny back in place, we installed the Pro 5.0 Shifter. pretty straightfoward. make sure to use locktite on the bolts. we reinstalled the factory shift linkage arm and connected it to the shifter.
Next was the Powerhouse Driveshaft. We installed the flange adapter in the rear of the car and torqued the bolts to spec. we then inserted the driveshaft from the rear of the car moving towards the front and bolted the unit to the tranny. we compressed the shaft a bit and got the back lined up and bolted that down as well.
We reconnected all of the tranny wires we disconnected before. we installed the H pipe again and reinstalled all of the O2 sensors as well. Got the rear tips lined up perfectly this time too.
We refilled the tranny fluid and changed the oil and S/C oil as well while we were at it.
We were gonig to start the EH2O pump but we were running out of time.
Anyway the car drives great, the SOTP feeling is incredible. Got my heart beating liek the first time i drove the car with the S/C, and the day i picked up the car. No vibrations in the shaft as far as i can tell. got her up to 120 on the freeway to test that. The shifter is perfect. 1-2, 2-3, and 3-4 shifts are incredibly fast and easy. it takes some effort to get it into 5th and reverse as compared to the B&M but not substantially.
The clutch is pretty on or off at first but with a few miles it is getting easier to handle. im also getting used to it. hitting the gears hard at redline is no problem. i am thinknig i will install a hurts handle on the pro 5.0 shifter as its a little longer. the pro 5.0 sits a bit low for me, even on the higher setting.
to my credit i only stalled ocne wit hthe new clutch so far. it is pretty strong. i would recommend it to anyone however by my initial experience.
I would liek to thank David my buddy for lending me his time, and mroe importantly his lift to make this job doable.
I would also like to thank Lightning Performance on the great deal on the shifter and Jan at InMotion Perf for the amazing deal on the clutch and flywheel combo. LAst but not least, Josh and Kevin from PMP for the awesome Group Buy on the Powerhouse Aluminum Driveshaft.
ps heres a link to my burnout video made in Daves Driveway
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BX626nqF9LY
9/19/06, 05:42 PM
#2
Great writeup!!!!
I am blown away by the size of the tranny. I had no idea it was that HUGE!!!
What hydraulic line to the tranny? At first I thought you were talking a tranny cooler, but you have the Tremec 3650 right?
Why not use the shim?
Great job on the write up!! I learned a lot.
I am blown away by the size of the tranny. I had no idea it was that HUGE!!!
What hydraulic line to the tranny? At first I thought you were talking a tranny cooler, but you have the Tremec 3650 right?
Why not use the shim?
Great job on the write up!! I learned a lot.
9/19/06, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by mrkabc
Great writeup!!!!
I am blown away by the size of the tranny. I had no idea it was that HUGE!!!
What hydraulic line to the tranny? At first I thought you were talking a tranny cooler, but you have the Tremec 3650 right?
Why not use the shim?
Great job on the write up!! I learned a lot.
I am blown away by the size of the tranny. I had no idea it was that HUGE!!!
What hydraulic line to the tranny? At first I thought you were talking a tranny cooler, but you have the Tremec 3650 right?
Why not use the shim?
Great job on the write up!! I learned a lot.
the shim is only to be used with the stock flywheel and the spec clutch. if you repalce both, you dont need it. the shim adjsuts the clutch pedal travel but if used with the spec clutch and spec flywheel, it causes problems shifting gears. the clutch wont engage/disengage properly.
9/19/06, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Rapture
Very nice ! MM&FF had a write up on the drive shaft they did at the track. I guess you didn 't save any weight on the trans?
MM&FF had a write up on the drive shaft they did at the track. I guess you didn 't save any weight on the trans?
9/19/06, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by tom281
Nice write up, an congrats on what sounds like a great setup.
The factory flywheel bolts being loose is very alarming though...
The factory flywheel bolts being loose is very alarming though...
9/19/06, 10:25 PM
#11
Nice vid, I'm a subscriber now! 
9/20/06, 09:53 AM
#13
Originally Posted by 94tbird
The clutch in these cars is a hydraulic clutch. the fluid comes from the master brake cylinder and into the slave cylinder in to the tranny through this line. yes i have the 5spd manual. it is that big!!!!
the shim is only to be used with the stock flywheel and the spec clutch. if you repalce both, you dont need it. the shim adjsuts the clutch pedal travel but if used with the spec clutch and spec flywheel, it causes problems shifting gears. the clutch wont engage/disengage properly.
the shim is only to be used with the stock flywheel and the spec clutch. if you repalce both, you dont need it. the shim adjsuts the clutch pedal travel but if used with the spec clutch and spec flywheel, it causes problems shifting gears. the clutch wont engage/disengage properly.
I'm so used to seeing cable clutches in my Fox 'Stang and various Pintos/Capris I have worked on that the prospect of a hydraulic clutch didn't even occur to me (although the Chilton manual SWEARS that '85 on up Fox 'Stangs have hydraulic clutches...)Once again... awesome writeup!!!
9/20/06, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Mas35NYR
Yeah try telling me again how you don't do burnouts that often! LOL
Great write up bro and sick video! Was that a chunk of rubber you threw?
Great write up bro and sick video! Was that a chunk of rubber you threw?
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