Can the stock plates just have the flaps removed, this would save modders a lot of money?

 

Try it!!!!!!

 

Lol, Why not I've got a Hanes car fixer upper guide.

Has anyone thought about the pros and cons, and if this could be accomplished easily.

Someone that is smart on cars and understands the concept of CMPs.

 

Well if the steeda ones dont have plates in them I am sure you can remove the stock ones. But if you look at steeda's the plates holes are also bigger/ported etc. So if you are going to do that , you may want to have them ported and polished as well. Good luck

 

Sorry I'm late to this topic, but just what do these things do, anyway? where are they located, and why delete/change them in the first place? Just wondering where to spend this burning pile of cash in my pocket

 

Why not just wire them open like they did in a magazine test?
They are located between the intake and the heads. Someone else in the know will have to tell you what they are for.

 

I am about to consider this mod myself, I just noticed that Steeda has increased the price of their CMPs.

 

So what do they do?

Sean

 

Many people in these forums say Ford did it for emitions. However the purpose is to keep the velocity of the fuel/air charge up untill the engine reaches about 3000 RPM then the plates open and make use of that third valve, effectivlty doubling the amount of F/A entering the combustion chamber. deleting these will decrease low end torque and increase high RPM horsepower. A good test would be to wire them open, but this will need a tune. If someone had access to a dyno they could experiment and tell us all for sure what the truth is. There have also been a lot of threads complaining about CMP and CEL problems even after the tune that is supplied with them.
I would love to know the answer. It may be some "free" hp to just wire them open. I hope someone can answer this.

 

I have the delete plates and it's a mod I wouldn't do again. When the car is first started after sitting for a while, the engine revs, by itself up to 1800-2100 rpm, before it settles down. Also, the car was tuned for the delete with SCT involved and while it didn't decrease low end hp or torque, it also didn't increase high end hp or torque.

 

Well, I have a set waiting (tuned with an SCT 2) for my ride when she gets back from the body shop. I'll post when they get installed.

 

I like mine except for the revving part. It's only when it's cold but I'm hoping that someone will fix this one day.

Thanks Mike

 

It am looking at all options. 169stang said he got about 6 hp and 6 tq on the high with no loss on the bottom. He does have CAI and Long Tube Header which possibly make the OE plates a restriction.

 

Unfortunately every car is different . It did help my car and since I was planning on a supercharger later I wasn't really concerned about it. I noticed no ill effects except for the revving when cold. I also like the fact that I don't have to worry about a plate opening or closing to get full power besides the TB. I'd do it again.

Thanks Mike

 

For my money, they wern't worth anything. The self reving (goosing the throttle) is very annoying. The Steeda instructions say that once you remove the stock plates, they cannot be re-installed.

 

Which magazine did this? For those looking on the steeda site check out some other site you can still get them for cheap on those.

 

I do not remember which magazine as it has been many months ago maybe even last year. Sorry

 

:scratch: Thanx for the info guys. I at least (somewhat ) know what they're about now. I don't think I'll be getting the deletes right now, but wiring the OE ones open sounds interesting. If anyone does this, please post the results.

 

It was MMFF and it was done on an engine dyno using the FAST fuel management system. They also bypassed the drive by wire.

 

Not quite sure what they do, but I've got a '97 f150 with a 4.2L V6 that blew a head gasket. While I was tearing it down I noticed two vacuum actuated solenoids on the rear of the intake manifold. On the inside of the intake there were six butterflys. I decided that they couldn't possibly do anything(since I had never seen them on anything else), so I removed them and filled the holes where the shaft passed through the intake. When I put the engine back together and took it for a test drive I quickly noticed that I had a considerable loss in low-end torque. On the upside, after about 3,000 rpms it woke up like two-stroke dirtbike. Since it's not an apples to apples comparison I can't say that it's a bad idea, but I didn't like the results on my truck.