champion spark plugs run like crap
I know there are two plugs that brisk makes but I think they are 1 and 2 steps colder. I could be wrong though.
Also could frequently removing the welded plugs eventually weaken the weld and cause the problem?
I guess at 15K you'd only remove them like 4-6 times anyway. But just seems like it would create extra wear on the plugs and coils.
Also could frequently removing the welded plugs eventually weaken the weld and cause the problem?
I guess at 15K you'd only remove them like 4-6 times anyway. But just seems like it would create extra wear on the plugs and coils.
Last edited by randy_tho; Jun 25, 2008 at 08:17 PM.
Plugs
I know there are two plugs that brisk makes but I think they are 1 and 2 steps colder. I could be wrong though.
Also could frequently removing the welded plugs eventually weaken the weld and cause the problem?
I guess at 15K you'd only remove them like 4-6 times anyway. But just seems like it would create extra wear on the plugs and coils.
Also could frequently removing the welded plugs eventually weaken the weld and cause the problem?
I guess at 15K you'd only remove them like 4-6 times anyway. But just seems like it would create extra wear on the plugs and coils.
I have read that repeated removal and installation of the OE type 2 piece plugs can cause a mis-fire condition. These plugs are pretty fragile and will not take much in the way of abuse. Just something to think about.
True. I have read that too about the brisk being a "silver" plug.
Is the misfire a dropped coil or the plug?
Is the misfire a dropped coil or the plug?
A couple things here. I contacted the Brisk people before I bought my Champions. They told me their plugs were more made for racing applications and would have a short life compared to a platinum plug which is more recommended for a DD. Their words.
I have read that repeated removal and installation of the OE type 2 piece plugs can cause a mis-fire condition. These plugs are pretty fragile and will not take much in the way of abuse. Just something to think about.
I have read that repeated removal and installation of the OE type 2 piece plugs can cause a mis-fire condition. These plugs are pretty fragile and will not take much in the way of abuse. Just something to think about.

Ok so my plugs started getting REALLY bad last week. my car was sputtering at any rpm below 3500. I broke down and ordered a factory set of plugs for $60. I swapped the plugs out today and put the factory ones in per the TSB and the car fires right up. No more sputtering.
It has been confirmed, the champion plugs ARE CRAP
It has been confirmed, the champion plugs ARE CRAP
"It takes a big man to cry, but it takes a bigger man to laugh at that man" Jack Handy
Thanks for posting that, I always felt that way about Champion plugs, but started to consider them with the one piece design. I gooped up my factory ones a few months ago and no problems so far. Live and learn.
Thanks for posting that, I always felt that way about Champion plugs, but started to consider them with the one piece design. I gooped up my factory ones a few months ago and no problems so far. Live and learn.
Champion Plugs
I've got at least 5,000 miles on my champions and they couldn't be any better. If Motorcraft ever comes out with a 1 piece plug I MIGHT go back, but until then, I'm happy with my Champions.
FWIW, in many years of wrenching cars I've found that most "bad" plugs are the result of the person installing them putting some sideways torque on the socket as they tighten it and they crack the porcelain causing the problem. It's easier than you think to crack a plug when putting them in. In fact I've never seen a factory defective plug that caused a miss, they've always been wrenching "operator error" .
Yikes. Doesn't seem like they would crack with just like what 25 ft/lbs? Not doubting you but fragile stuff. I've only changed plugs a few times in my life but all but once have used a torque wrench and haven't had a problem.
Read my post #36 again. They don't crack from the torque of installing them correctly, in fact there is no force applied to the porcelain when done right. It is the lateral (sideways) torque that cracks them. This happens when your socket gets sideways as you attempt to tighten it down. This will break ANY plug and is a common mistake some people make.
Also, check the depth of your spark plug socket, it may be too shallow. To check, put a spark plug in the socket and see if the top of the plug comes up into the drive portion where the extension goes. If it does then when you are tightening the plug down you are putting direct pressure on the entire body of the plug and not on the 5/8" hex (Champion) or 9/16" hex (OEM Motorcrafts). This will also break a plug.
I've been turning wrenches on cars since the 60's and have seen and experienced a few things in that time.
Last edited by cave diver; Jul 31, 2008 at 06:52 AM.
FWIW, in many years of wrenching cars I've found that most "bad" plugs are the result of the person installing them putting some sideways torque on the socket as they tighten it and they crack the porcelain causing the problem. It's easier than you think to crack a plug when putting them in. In fact I've never seen a factory defective plug that caused a miss, they've always been wrenching "operator error" .



