Import-Slaya

My stock reservoir has been spitting coolant occasionally from day 1--not enough make me rush to the dealer for a replacement (it has a slight defect in the neck where the cap seals), but enough to start bugging me now that the hot weather is hitting again.

I've pretty much decided on the Canton replacement and have 2 questions:

1) What cap do you run on it? Do you stay with the 16 psi stock value, or go to the 18 psi version offered?

2) This might be a stupid one...how do you know the level of your coolant (other than opening when cool), or how much to fill it to?

It's also been pointed out that Moroso makes a similar tank that accepts the stock cap--anyone have one of these? Thoughts?

Five Oh Brian

I went with the Canton expansion tank on my 2003 Mach 1 when the factory plastic reservoir starting warping from the heat. Had to use an aftermarket cap (readily available at ANY auto parts store) and stepped up to an 18 psi cap which kept it from ever spewing. Canton makes an awesome tank that looks totally custom. Moroso makes fine stuff, I'm sure, but its only "advantage" may be retention of the factory cap. But, if you're installing a great looking aftermarket tank, why on Earth would you want to put the black plastic factory cap back on it? A chromed aftermarket cap looks much better.

SoundGuyDave

+1 on the aftermarket cap, and the quality of the tank... Simple swap, and allows you to run a catch can for overflow, which is not only tech-friendly, but a good idea to boot. Simple way to tell if you're boiling over on the track, and if so, by how much. I mounted a 1qt plastic Moroso bottle just inboard and below the passenger headlight bucket.

Oh, and they look pretty good, too...

Import-Slaya

Very interesting--didn't realize that was what the nub on the filler was for. That's great info, thanks.

SoundGuyDave

Yup, as the coolant system temprature increases, so does the pressure. If the temp increase is sufficient to exceed the rating of the cap (which prevents the "weak link" from failing catastrophically), then the spring loaded seal against the seat of the filler neck is overcome and the fluid exits, stage left... Right through the nub, and thence to the overflow bottle. 70's era cars just had a hose routed to the bottom of the car, and in the 80's, the hose went to a non-pressurized coolant reservoir that required a different style of water neck to allow for fluid transfer back and forth. That's why there are "full" marks on the older reservoirs despite having a vented cap. On the new generation, we're back to the sealed system, but using a de-gas bottle to allow gasses generated by localized boiling to collect in the high point of the circulation. Probably more than you wanted to know, though, right?

Import-Slaya

Not at all! I love the tech, and this gives me much better understanding of the system. So...what are your thoughts on the hot side vs. cold side thermostat location? It's been suggested to change over to the '07+ cooling system, which has the t-stat on the hot side. Given that the suggestion is from some of the Ford insiders, I want to start a "parts needed" list.

SoundGuyDave

My personal opinion, leaving aside the hot/cold side issues, is that given the kind of lateral and longitudinal G-forces that we're putting the cars through, not having a thermostat housing literally flopping around at the front of the motor is just a good thing... If you get a parts list together, let me know, I'd be into doing the same conversion myself!

Import-Slaya

Will do--I just need a chance to run by my local dealer and sit down with the parts guy to compare the parts diagrams of both years.