The Bogart Racing wheels are on.
Darn rain! I can't wait to see how your car hooks up with those! I can't wait to get mine!EDIT: I didn't scroll over to see the whole pic. Looks great!
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Originally posted by Blazing Saddles@July 27, 2005, 5:18 PM
I also installed the line lock solenoids but didn't have time to wire them. Dang thunderstorms.
I also installed the line lock solenoids but didn't have time to wire them. Dang thunderstorms.
Very nice George!!! So, do you care to itemize everything you had to do to get them on? Inquiring minds want to know.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Originally posted by Black Magic@July 27, 2005, 5:43 PM
They look great. Are those D/R tires on the back and if so were they used to get your et's of 13.20 and 13.40's? Thanks.
They look great. Are those D/R tires on the back and if so were they used to get your et's of 13.20 and 13.40's? Thanks.
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Originally posted by don_w@July 27, 2005, 5:52 PM
Very nice George!!! So, do you care to itemize everything you had to do to get them on? Inquiring minds want to know.
Thanks.
Very nice George!!! So, do you care to itemize everything you had to do to get them on? Inquiring minds want to know.
Thanks.
The axle holes were .600 dia I had to open them up to .615 to use Moroso wheel studs #46180
The hub holes were .535 I had to open them up to .580 and use Moroso wheel studs #46185
I had to use these 1" slotted cloth discs in a 1/4" mandrel with a 22,000 RPM die grinder, and a pair of dial verniers to measure the holes.
I had to use flush mount valve stems in the front Mr. Gasket #5102
I used Centerline open ended wheel nuts #L5120-0
Thanks George!!
What kind of interference did you have from the rotors and calipers (if any)? And how did you get around that? Did you use wheel spacers... thus the need for the longer studs?
What kind of interference did you have from the rotors and calipers (if any)? And how did you get around that? Did you use wheel spacers... thus the need for the longer studs?
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Originally posted by Blazing Saddles@July 27, 2005, 10:40 PM
... You have to use 3" wheel studs to pass tech at the track.
...
... You have to use 3" wheel studs to pass tech at the track.
...
I have not run into this problem. Maybe I'm just too slow
What class or E/T break point requires 3" studs? Thanks,The Boss Hog
Great look, I am jealous. I am still stuck with the 4 pieces of ET prolonging heavy factory pieces of metal that take too much of my car's horsepower to initiate rolling! I am sure everyone in this forum knows the kind of cash or credit required to do this upgrade.
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Originally posted by Black Magic@July 27, 2005, 5:43 PM
They look great. Are those D/R tires on the back and if so were they used to get your et's of 13.20 and 13.40's? Thanks.
They look great. Are those D/R tires on the back and if so were they used to get your et's of 13.20 and 13.40's? Thanks.
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Originally posted by The Boss Hog@July 28, 2005, 5:47 AM
George,
I have not run into this problem. Maybe I'm just too slow What class or E/T break point requires 3" studs? Thanks,
The Boss Hog
George,
I have not run into this problem. Maybe I'm just too slow
What class or E/T break point requires 3" studs? Thanks,The Boss Hog
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Originally posted by dhof303@July 28, 2005, 8:42 AM
Great look, I am jealous. I am still stuck with the 4 pieces of ET prolonging heavy factory pieces of metal that take too much of my car's horsepower to initiate rolling! I am sure everyone in this forum knows the kind of cash or credit required to do this upgrade.
Great look, I am jealous. I am still stuck with the 4 pieces of ET prolonging heavy factory pieces of metal that take too much of my car's horsepower to initiate rolling! I am sure everyone in this forum knows the kind of cash or credit required to do this upgrade.
BTW I"m jealous of your timeslips. I hear you're in the 11's
George... What kind of interference did you have from the rotors and calipers (if any)? And how did you get around that?
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Originally posted by Blazing Saddles@July 28, 2005, 9:06 PM
With 1/2" dia studs its required to have 1/2" of thread enter the nut. The shank on the nut doesn't count. The shank length on the nut is 1 3/8 add the thicknesses of the axle flange and the brake rotor and the lead on the stud itself, I barely got 1/2" in the nut.
With 1/2" dia studs its required to have 1/2" of thread enter the nut. The shank on the nut doesn't count. The shank length on the nut is 1 3/8 add the thicknesses of the axle flange and the brake rotor and the lead on the stud itself, I barely got 1/2" in the nut.
OK, got it. Thanks for the reply. BTW, the wheels look great
The Boss Hog
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Originally posted by don_w@July 28, 2005, 11:25 PM
George... What kind of interference did you have from the rotors and calipers (if any)? And how did you get around that?
George... What kind of interference did you have from the rotors and calipers (if any)? And how did you get around that?
Thanks, George.
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