outdoorstom

Does anybody have any idea what I should try next to get rid of my wheel hop? I'm disappointed after reading a lot of threads about the lca's curing the problem. Has anyone else still had the problem after installing these? Thanks in advance.....

MaverickMLFD371

Upper Control arm

You may also want to check to see the way the arms are. They should be at an upward angle towards the front of the car, if they are not at an upward angle, you should invest in the LCA Relocation Brackets. A lot of cars are different.

Machine

I did a lot of research about this prior to purchasing mine...

I had the same reservations about wheel hop and found that some folks still had it after installing the LCA's. Many folks who ordered the relocation brackets no longer experienced the wheel hop, due to the change in angle of the arm. some did.

I dont think I recall any person installing a new UCA and having wheelhop AT ALL.

just my .02

PS - I'm running BMR non-adjustables and reloaction brackets. No issues thus far.

traffic142

mine was lowered (springs) and with the lowering brackets, no more problems. I did not try mine with the LCA's only. I know the angle of the old LCA's were almost level with the ground.

169stang

My LCA's remove all the wheel hop when I ran at my track. I did see a little wheel hop at other tracks though. The relocation brackets and UCA got rid of the remainder of the wheel hop.

emperorjordan

dangit, I was hoping if i get the LCAs it will completely cure it. Do you think the UCA should be gotten first, or still try LCAs first?

300HPGT

Well I would do all 3 with the relocation brackets for lowered cars. I have yet to get the money to be able to do that.

emperorjordan

well i dont have the money for all at the moment, which would you suggest first? upper or lower?

300HPGT

Well I would be different and try the upper. I havent seen anyone change that first. Plus its cheaper than doing lowers and you have heard that doing lowers dosnt 100% cure the problems so why not try doing the upper first.

Fazm

i have the LCAs and the UCA, and experience no more wheel hop. No relocation brackets.

outdoorstom

I appreciate everyone's feedback. My car is not lowered, so I'm still not sure if I should do the upper control arms and the relocation brackets, or try one at a time. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/dunno.gif[/img]

Clem

Tom,

2 weeks ago I installed the BMR LCAs (non adjusting w/ poly bushings) and while I was at it I cut one coil out of my rear springs. I was getting wicked wheel hop before and now it does not hop at all. Our performance mods are very similar so maybe by lowering mine slightly with the spring cut, that made a difference. My car sits about 3/4" lower now and I love the result. Hope you work it out.

300HPGT

when you launch the axle wants to rotate upwards and this puts a lot of pressure on the uppper control arm. If there is enough slop in the stock rubber bushings and the car starts to grab for traction sometimes it will violently rap up and down which is wheel hop that we experience. Yes I do have wheel hop too. I am going to buy the upper control arm and also the upper control arm bracket from BMR. I will keep you guys posted on the outcome. Plus I need new rear tires too. I have 1/64th of an inch or tread left. so if this dosnt fix the problem then I know that I need to get lowers too.

outdoorstom

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Clem @ April 30, 2006, 8:32 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Tom,

2 weeks ago I installed the BMR LCAs (non adjusting w/ poly bushings) and while I was at it I cut one coil out of my rear springs. I was getting wicked wheel hop before and now it does not hop at all. Our performance mods are very similar so maybe by lowering mine slightly with the spring cut, that made a difference. My car sits about 3/4" lower now and I love the result. Hope you work it out.
[/b][/quote]


Thanks for the input. No negatives from cutting, rather than replacing the springs? I've read a lot of posts where guys have done it with good results. Then, there are the naysayers who swear it's not safe. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/dunno.gif[/img]

cobalt

Who makes rear lower control arm re-location brackets that will be compatable with my steeda non adjustable billitt lower control arms? I also have the Steeda adustable upper 3rd link.
I talked to Gus at Steeda, and they claim they are releasing a rear lower control arm relocation bracket in a month or so that will be compatable with the non adjustable lower conrol arms most people have. Who is making these currently? I couldn't find a BMR version of this, where should I look? Thanks, Erik

outdoorstom

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(erik42 @ May 5, 2006, 8:10 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Who makes rear lower control arm re-location brackets that will be compatable with my steeda non adjustable billitt lower control arms? I also have the Steeda adustable upper 3rd link.
I talked to Gus at Steeda, and they claim they are releasing a rear lower control arm relocation bracket in a month or so that will be compatable with the non adjustable lower conrol arms most people have. Who is making these currently? I couldn't find a BMR version of this, where should I look? Thanks, Erik
[/b][/quote]


I spoke with BMR tech and they recommend using these. Here's a link, Erik. http://www.bmrfabrication.com/05Mustang/CAB005.jpg

traffic142

That is what I installed. Works good. no wheel hop. it will sit and spin all day If I let it (not at 400.00 bucks a pair though).

[attachmentid=48405]


BTW no clearance issues (speed bumps or such)

cobalt

Thak you very much Tom, I just talked to Lee at BMR and got a lot of good info. Awsome! Erik

Thank you very much Tom, I just talked to Lee at BMR and got a lot of good info. Awsome! Erik

Nice! Is there an echo in here.

jp's performance

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(300HPGT @ April 29, 2006, 6:25 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Well I would do all 3 with the relocation brackets for lowered cars. I have yet to get the money to be able to do that.
[/b][/quote]i have the bmr non adj lowers i get wheel hop bad when powershifting put in a set of 87-93 strange adj shocks problem solved. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/icon_mrgreen.gif[/img]

Clem

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(outdoorstom @ April 30, 2006, 12:54 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Thanks for the input. No negatives from cutting, rather than replacing the springs? I've read a lot of posts where guys have done it with good results. Then, there are the naysayers who swear it's not safe. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/dunno.gif[/img]
[/b][/quote]

Tom,

The worst thing about cutting my springs is that I had to adjust the mirrors slightly. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/04.gif[/img]

I cut them in less than a minute each with a tungstun blade on my sawzall and they never got hot enough to be a concern. What's not safe? I just can't see them breaking because of this. Worst case, you buy new springs. They're relatively cheap.

The car now sits level which is how is should have been from the factory. It seems a smidge firmer in the back, but that may be my imagination. Whatever, I like it! It cost me zero and looks so much better. Well, OK, the wear and tear on my sawzall and blade.

The BMR LCA's are great. I was expecting a bunch more noise to come through, but the increase is minimal. My 4.10's do throw a bit of whine from 48-52 mph and that is a bit louder now. But I'm not in that range for long and it does not bother me.

The spring cut + LCA's = an excellent low $, easy to do mod in my opinion. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img]