BassMoBill

Yesterday I went on the dyno to get my real results of my car after the mods installed, shown below in my signature.
The Result was 317 german DIN PS. Shouldn't it be more? I have the feeling the tune from steeda isn't as good as is should or could be.

What are your experiences after mods?

Flo

karman

Don't be surprised, but that is about right.
Think about how much power you are making at the crankshaft.
You have increased it way over the factory rating of about 305 DIN PS.
You are up to about 350 or more now.

BassMoBill

No..this is not right...There are 317 DIN PS at the crankshaft...at the wheel there were 245 PS DIN...245 RWHP. Thats my problem why I'm thinking there could be something wrong...

Dougxox

What kind of dyno and what were their CF and Smoothing settings?

karman

At what RPM? Was it in top gear? Was the overdrive off?
Was the traction control off?
How the heck do you measure the exact crankshaft output?
What was the stock power?
245 for a stock # is not far off for the autos.

BassMoBill

In D gear with overdrive off at 5140 RPM with 234 RWHP at 206 km/h; torque 4725RPM 450Nm.

Yes


Somekind of PC calculate thing I don't understand.


didn't measure the stock power

scramblr

You should do a search on dyno's and automatics. I can't remember it all, but I do remember that the car has to get locked in 4th gear or something like that. You can't just put an auto on a dyno, you will not get correct readings.

mvon919

It's correct. For that dyno. You need to remember that every dyno tells you different numbers.

G.T

just came back from a dyno run with JLT II and Bamachips 93 octane perf tune.
the dyno is an australian Dyno Dynamics
i got 302.4RWHP, and 1050 lb Tractive effort..
the darn thing didn't log my Torque or RPM.. so i don't even know how to calculate my Torque.

bottom line is.. Dynos are very different.

and most dynos would give you the horsepower reading at the wheel.. so i wonder why yours would give you crank HP!
can you post the sheet by any chance?
just curious what it looks like

BassMoBill

This is my run...any ideas?

G.T

seeing the lil' drop around 5k RPM i figured it had to be an auto.. then i saw it in your signature
dunno man.. i just find it hard to believe that ANY dyno would give BHP figures considering that it's measuring horsepower at the wheels anyway.

315RWHP is where i'd expect your car to be, considering mine put out 302RWHP with nothing but a JLT-II and a bamachips tune

can you verify this with the dyno?
can they provide you with other reference numbers from other vehicles to compare and see if all the results on this type of Dyno are a bit lower than usual

BassMoBill

We tested another car and there the results were ok...but it wasn't no auto...it was a manual trans.
But i try to get another test ride of a different dyno.

But nevertheless...is there really the possibility that maybe the tune isn't right? I had the tunes from Steeda (probably directly from sct)...now i bought a SCT refill from doug with 91 performance, torque and rac tune...with the perf tune i will test again the car...i can't belive the low results...even with an auto...there MUST be something wrong...

G.T

what were the numbers for the other car, and did you by any chance get an AFR reading for your dyno run?
it's possible you have a bad fuel pump, bad MAF sensor/intake or just a bad calibration

BassMoBill

What is a AFR reading?
I think its the bad calibration...I will tune today my bamachips tune and then try to get another dyno...
How could i check the fuel pump?
If a zylinder weren't working well or esp. the spark plugs...would this be heared?

G.T

AFR is AirFuel Ratio.. anything higher than around 12.5 means you're running lean (too much air, not enough fuel in the combination)
anything lower than 11.5 means you're running rich.. (too much fuel, not enough air in the combination)
either way, both are bad, and while running lean is pretty bad for your engine, they both cause you to lose power. and any decent dyno should be able to tell whether your AFR is alright.

as for the fuel pump, you will need to have the fuel pressure checked, to make sure the pumps are fully functional.

as for having a faulty cylinder or spark plug, first you would feel and hear it.. then it would easily show up on any scanner, along with a check engine light on your dash.

good luck.

BassMoBill

Ok...next time i will check the afr...but i hope the tune from doug will help a lot...the engine runs great...some strange sounds when it was cold and i fire it up...but after 20 sec everything is ok...this was after the steeda tune was installed...but very smooth run...great sound...good felt power...a little slow response by touching the gas pedal...but else...everything seems to be alright...so first i install the doug tune...then i will check the spark plugs and then i dyno again...with checking the afr rate...(how do i check this...via sct live logg?)
Thx.

How much gas you need for 100km?

After the mods and the tunes it decreased from 15 to 13.8 l / 100km....

G.T

all engines will make some strange noises and clank a bit while really cold, till the oil is circulated and warmed up, so this isn't worth worrying about.

you can't check your AFR with the SCT.. you will need a special sensor for it.. ask your Dyno.. if they dunno how to do it, or can't do it.. go somewhere else! plain and simple.

i'm pretty trigger happy and i drive pedal to the metal most of the time here in Dubai.. so my gas milage is not a good comparison
in any case, i do 280-320KM in a full tank.. that's 11mpg for ya

RadBOSS

What gear was your pull in? 4th?

deivered engine torque = tractive force x (tire dia / 2 / 12) / (diff gear ratio x trans gear ratio).

delivered engine torque = 1050 x (27.2 / 2 / 12) / (3.55 x 1) = 335 ft-lbs

tire rolling radius is slightly less than dia / 2 so that would pull that number down a little bit

RadBOSS

On the chassis dyno, it can not directly read crank horsepower. The crank horse power given is based on drive line efficency assumption. Looks like he is figuring about 23% driveline losses at max power. The bottom curve appears to be related to drag losses (mechanical?) and I am not sure how that is determined on the dyno, but like you said it may be a emperical PC calculation. Looks like you got 234 RW power, not 245?

G.T

hey that's pretty sweet. thanks for doing this to me RadBOSS

i found a few formulas but nothing as simple as this to be honest.
so 335ft/lb!
too bad i can't tell where the peak is though.

oh the run was on 3rd gear i think