Auto Meter Cobalt Gauges
#22
Join Date: February 2, 2006
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So Rob, is the install happening Saturday or what?
#24
Join Date: February 2, 2006
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I'll be busy and f*ing cold doing another 3v cam install tomorrow night, but hopefully we'll have it done and possibly do my blower install Saturday, who knows.
#25
Team Mustang Source
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Join Date: August 3, 2005
Location: Mustang/Tuttle, Oklahoma
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Cool, let me know. I just found out last night that my install may be a while. Possibly 3-4 weeks! It's no big deal, I just want it done by the show in April. I'm not in any hurry, but I have a guy who wants my polished C&L and I don't know how long he is willing to wait.
#26
Join Date: February 2, 2006
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Likewise, I've got a guy waiting on my JLT and steeda underdrive pulleys.
#27
Dude
I hate to break it to you but your factory gauges don't tell you squat.
The PCM just gives them an output to show that things are normal. The gauges really only have two positions... Normal and "oh Shhyit" There is no point in tapping into factory. Not to mention it would be more complicated than hooking up aftermarket. (in most cases)
#29
For those that have installed the Cobalts, where do you tap to get power for the gauge? What I mean is, you need power to power the gauage but you also need an electrical source like the headlights to turn them blue at night when you turn on the headlights. Do you just run the power to the headlight switch or do you need a constant 12V source and your gauage is always lit? How do you wire these things for power?
#30
Legacy TMS Member
Its been a couple weeks since I put mine in, but if I remember right-
For the electric fuel gauge, you need 12v switched power (ignition), 12v illumination (at the headlight switch), and ground. For the mechanical vacuum, you will need only ground and illumination.
For the electric fuel gauge, you need 12v switched power (ignition), 12v illumination (at the headlight switch), and ground. For the mechanical vacuum, you will need only ground and illumination.
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