Anyone try these Rotors?
Thread Starter
Mach 1 Member
Joined: October 13, 2004
Posts: 985
Likes: 6
Anyone try these Rotors?
I'm looking for a mild upgrade so I am thinking new rotors, Hawk HPS pads and Goodridge lines. Wondering if anyone has tried these rotors and if so how have they held up?
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...ar=&perfCode=A
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...ar=&perfCode=A
Team Mustang Source
Joined: December 12, 2004
Posts: 5,801
Likes: 5
From: NorCal
Since you are not going with drilled, slotted or drilled and slotted the stockers are fine. The others are more eye candy than function. You will benefit much more with the ss lines and Hawk pads. I just went down this road recently. JMO~
Mach 1 Member
Joined: September 22, 2009
Posts: 527
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What do you do with your car? If you truly need better stopping distances, a set of upgraded pads, then stickier tires.
New rotors that aren't oversized or thickened any won't provide better stopping distance. A thicker and larger rotor benefits from having the ability to sink more heat which helps with fade, but doesn't specifically do anything for stopping distance.
If you're a street car that wants a bit less stopping distance and better feel here is my recommendation.
Factory rotors and calipers
Carbotech "Bobcat" compound brake pads
Braided steel soft lines
A quality high temp DOT 4 fluid (ATE Super Blu, Motul 600 etc)
Summer compound tires
The carbotech pads offer great initial bite and a little bit more heat tolerance while being nearly completely dust free under those conditions. Adding the braided lines and new fluid will also firm up the pedal a bit more which doesn't necessarily translate to better braking, but you will have more confidence with the pedal.
Finally the stickier tires is what is doing the job to haul you down faster. I'm a huge believer in having two sets of tires if you're daily driving your car. A set of dedicated summer performance tires (I like the new nitto NT05 or the Falken Azenzi RT615) and a set of dedicated winter tires. Blizzak's performance snow tire is good for a performance car that sees snow.
You'll have dramatically better feel and improved stopping distances at the lowest cost possible.
A note on cross-drilled and slotted rotors. They had a purpose at one time. However, today's pad technologies have rendered them more of a "look at me" statement than one of function. If you want the look, go for it, but you won't see a performance improvement with them. They also tend to be a liability on track where severe heat and pressure is applied. Especially the cross-drilled rotors have a tendency to crack under stress and heat.
Finally, don't neglect your brake system, specifically the fluid. the quality fluids I listed above have better hydroscopic attributes, but brake fluid still absorbs moisture and as it does the ability to transfer pressure to the caliper lessons. Resulting in a spongy pedal or one with abnormally long travel. Under normal driving conditions, brake fluid should be flushed at least once a year. If you're an aggressive driver that sees canyon carving, spirited driving, or especially track time you may need to flush your system at regular intervals.
I hope that's helpful for you. Good luck with the upgrades!
New rotors that aren't oversized or thickened any won't provide better stopping distance. A thicker and larger rotor benefits from having the ability to sink more heat which helps with fade, but doesn't specifically do anything for stopping distance.
If you're a street car that wants a bit less stopping distance and better feel here is my recommendation.
Factory rotors and calipers
Carbotech "Bobcat" compound brake pads
Braided steel soft lines
A quality high temp DOT 4 fluid (ATE Super Blu, Motul 600 etc)
Summer compound tires
The carbotech pads offer great initial bite and a little bit more heat tolerance while being nearly completely dust free under those conditions. Adding the braided lines and new fluid will also firm up the pedal a bit more which doesn't necessarily translate to better braking, but you will have more confidence with the pedal.
Finally the stickier tires is what is doing the job to haul you down faster. I'm a huge believer in having two sets of tires if you're daily driving your car. A set of dedicated summer performance tires (I like the new nitto NT05 or the Falken Azenzi RT615) and a set of dedicated winter tires. Blizzak's performance snow tire is good for a performance car that sees snow.
You'll have dramatically better feel and improved stopping distances at the lowest cost possible.
A note on cross-drilled and slotted rotors. They had a purpose at one time. However, today's pad technologies have rendered them more of a "look at me" statement than one of function. If you want the look, go for it, but you won't see a performance improvement with them. They also tend to be a liability on track where severe heat and pressure is applied. Especially the cross-drilled rotors have a tendency to crack under stress and heat.
Finally, don't neglect your brake system, specifically the fluid. the quality fluids I listed above have better hydroscopic attributes, but brake fluid still absorbs moisture and as it does the ability to transfer pressure to the caliper lessons. Resulting in a spongy pedal or one with abnormally long travel. Under normal driving conditions, brake fluid should be flushed at least once a year. If you're an aggressive driver that sees canyon carving, spirited driving, or especially track time you may need to flush your system at regular intervals.
I hope that's helpful for you. Good luck with the upgrades!
Thread Starter
Mach 1 Member
Joined: October 13, 2004
Posts: 985
Likes: 6
What do you do with your car? If you truly need better stopping distances, a set of upgraded pads, then stickier tires.
New rotors that aren't oversized or thickened any won't provide better stopping distance. A thicker and larger rotor benefits from having the ability to sink more heat which helps with fade, but doesn't specifically do anything for stopping distance.
If you're a street car that wants a bit less stopping distance and better feel here is my recommendation.
Factory rotors and calipers
Carbotech "Bobcat" compound brake pads
Braided steel soft lines
A quality high temp DOT 4 fluid (ATE Super Blu, Motul 600 etc)
Summer compound tires
The carbotech pads offer great initial bite and a little bit more heat tolerance while being nearly completely dust free under those conditions. Adding the braided lines and new fluid will also firm up the pedal a bit more which doesn't necessarily translate to better braking, but you will have more confidence with the pedal.
Finally the stickier tires is what is doing the job to haul you down faster. I'm a huge believer in having two sets of tires if you're daily driving your car. A set of dedicated summer performance tires (I like the new nitto NT05 or the Falken Azenzi RT615) and a set of dedicated winter tires. Blizzak's performance snow tire is good for a performance car that sees snow.
You'll have dramatically better feel and improved stopping distances at the lowest cost possible.
A note on cross-drilled and slotted rotors. They had a purpose at one time. However, today's pad technologies have rendered them more of a "look at me" statement than one of function. If you want the look, go for it, but you won't see a performance improvement with them. They also tend to be a liability on track where severe heat and pressure is applied. Especially the cross-drilled rotors have a tendency to crack under stress and heat.
Finally, don't neglect your brake system, specifically the fluid. the quality fluids I listed above have better hydroscopic attributes, but brake fluid still absorbs moisture and as it does the ability to transfer pressure to the caliper lessons. Resulting in a spongy pedal or one with abnormally long travel. Under normal driving conditions, brake fluid should be flushed at least once a year. If you're an aggressive driver that sees canyon carving, spirited driving, or especially track time you may need to flush your system at regular intervals.
I hope that's helpful for you. Good luck with the upgrades!
New rotors that aren't oversized or thickened any won't provide better stopping distance. A thicker and larger rotor benefits from having the ability to sink more heat which helps with fade, but doesn't specifically do anything for stopping distance.
If you're a street car that wants a bit less stopping distance and better feel here is my recommendation.
Factory rotors and calipers
Carbotech "Bobcat" compound brake pads
Braided steel soft lines
A quality high temp DOT 4 fluid (ATE Super Blu, Motul 600 etc)
Summer compound tires
The carbotech pads offer great initial bite and a little bit more heat tolerance while being nearly completely dust free under those conditions. Adding the braided lines and new fluid will also firm up the pedal a bit more which doesn't necessarily translate to better braking, but you will have more confidence with the pedal.
Finally the stickier tires is what is doing the job to haul you down faster. I'm a huge believer in having two sets of tires if you're daily driving your car. A set of dedicated summer performance tires (I like the new nitto NT05 or the Falken Azenzi RT615) and a set of dedicated winter tires. Blizzak's performance snow tire is good for a performance car that sees snow.
You'll have dramatically better feel and improved stopping distances at the lowest cost possible.
A note on cross-drilled and slotted rotors. They had a purpose at one time. However, today's pad technologies have rendered them more of a "look at me" statement than one of function. If you want the look, go for it, but you won't see a performance improvement with them. They also tend to be a liability on track where severe heat and pressure is applied. Especially the cross-drilled rotors have a tendency to crack under stress and heat.
Finally, don't neglect your brake system, specifically the fluid. the quality fluids I listed above have better hydroscopic attributes, but brake fluid still absorbs moisture and as it does the ability to transfer pressure to the caliper lessons. Resulting in a spongy pedal or one with abnormally long travel. Under normal driving conditions, brake fluid should be flushed at least once a year. If you're an aggressive driver that sees canyon carving, spirited driving, or especially track time you may need to flush your system at regular intervals.
I hope that's helpful for you. Good luck with the upgrades!
Mach 1 Member
Joined: September 22, 2009
Posts: 527
Likes: 0
You have to go straight to Carbotech. their site is www.ctbrakes.com
It looks like they've renamed their pad compounds since the last time I purchased. However the compounds look to be the same. The "bobcat" compound is their 1521 series pad.
It looks like they've renamed their pad compounds since the last time I purchased. However the compounds look to be the same. The "bobcat" compound is their 1521 series pad.
Shelby GT500 Member
Joined: November 22, 2006
Posts: 2,932
Likes: 0
From: Planet Earth
Here's link that helps explain the science of rotors>
As GrayPny mention those look like a stock rotors. Centric is a common supplier of rotors and many third party companies buy these then they slot, drill or both and sell them for more. Hawk or EBC pads are a good upgrade, as with the upgrade to SS lines. Choose your pads wisely based on the driving you do, not all HP pads are equal and track brake pads are not a good choice if most of your driving is on the street. Track pads operate best in a heat range much higher then just casual street driving.
Jed
As GrayPny mention those look like a stock rotors. Centric is a common supplier of rotors and many third party companies buy these then they slot, drill or both and sell them for more. Hawk or EBC pads are a good upgrade, as with the upgrade to SS lines. Choose your pads wisely based on the driving you do, not all HP pads are equal and track brake pads are not a good choice if most of your driving is on the street. Track pads operate best in a heat range much higher then just casual street driving.
Jed
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