MrClean

BTW, I'm gonna remove & clean my TB...is there any truth ot the "you should not move the butterfly or you'll mess the mechanism up" thread? On the S197 forum, the good tech's said you just remove the TB and clean, and you can even remove the motor mechanism to get at the hinge points...appreaciate any pointers before I start this...

don_w

When I cleaned mine, I moved the butterfly to make sure I got it nice and clean throughout. But I didn't diassemble it at all... just took it off the car.

MrClean

Hey buddy! You're ubiquitous....

Ok will do. It looks real simple. BTW, I drained that Moroso can last night....6-8 ounces had accumulated in 1500 miles....how's your purchase/install going? Still further down on the to do/to buy list?

don_w

I gotta go look that up...


I haven't done anything about it yet... and I'm still not sure if the larger Moroso can will fit in my car. I'll get around to it eventually... probably... hopefully. hehe

G.T

this is the 3rd time i clean my TB..
and everytime i take off the motor.. and move the butterflies wide open.. clean them thoroughly.. clean around them, etc.. then reassemble everything.

however, i haven't had ANY throttle body related problems as a result!
once i reset my PCM and let it relearn the idle trims.. she idles at 740 RPM with and without the AC

max2000jp

I've got a Vortech HO that's doing the same thing. I am going to clean my tb and add a oil separator.

MrClean

Ok so can you go into detail with the spring on the motor thing please? All I need is for a 45 minute job to turn into a "I canb't to dtive to work the next day cause i screwed up my throttle" job.

MrClean

from Merriam- Webster:
: existing or being everywhere at the same time : constantly encountered :
— ubiq·ui·tous·ly adverb
— ubiq·ui·tous·ness noun

If the Moroso/Stef can is too large, I have that Steeda sitting in the garage....

max2000jp

Mr. Clean,
Can you please post your pictures on this forum for the members? You cannot view them on the other forum.

Jason

MrClean

Sorry guys, sometimes the forum software allows me to upload pics, and sometimes it doesn't... here goes..oh and here is the list of parts, with links, the install pics, other parts needed, etc..

From Summit:
Moroso Air Oil Separator: MOR-84571 $97

Moroso Mounting Bracket: MOR-63401 $7

S&H: $11

From Earl's Fittings:
Earl's Part #9892120 AN-12 Female to AN-10 Male reducer (2x$15.35)
Earl's Part #700111 AN-10 to 5/8" straight push lock hose end ($5.88)
Earl's Part #712011 AN-10 to 5/8" 120º push lock hose end ($25.78) OUCH!
S&H $6

AutoZone: 4' of 5/8" PCV Hose: $9

$193...I shoulda listened to CALIHP originally...now I got the Steeda just sitting there...any takers at $40 plus shipping?

Additional parts needed:

• You will also need a couple of bolts/nuts/washers to attach the bracket to the CAI shroud...I'm assuming you have a CAI. I just went to Lowe's and looked for some that fit the hole in the bracket x 1" long...any longer and they'll stick out.
• 2 x stainless 1" to 1&1/4" hose clamps
• OEM Quick-Connect fittings (engine side of equation):
  If you don't want to hack your stock PCV hose (to get the quick connect/disconnect fittings), buy a replacement from the local Ford stealership for $25...they won't have it in stock, you'll have to pre-pay and have them order it in for you. Carefully remove the stock plastic tube from the fittings using an exacto knife, start at the fitting end, and as you get close to the tip (of what your see is a push-lock-type barb), there's a blue o-ring, so at this point I tore the hose off using needlenose pliers so as not to cut the o-ring, although it probably doesn't make a difference in performance of the fitting.

Steps:

1. Attach the AN-12 Female to AN-10 Male reducers to the Moroso unit. Tighten.
2. Cut a 2' piece of 5/8" hose to use as the downstream side (that goes to the intake), leaving the 3' x 5/8" piece as the upstream side (coming from the valve cover).
3. After applying 1 (that's ONE) drop of oil to the push-lock barb, insert the 120º pushlock hose end bartba into the 2' hose...DON'T FORGET TO LEAVE THE RED SLEEVE ON THE EARL HOSE END PRIOR TO INSERTING THE BARB INTO THE HOSE FOR THE MANUFACTURED-HOSE LOOK!! Attach this hose to the AN-12 fitting UNDER the Moroso unit.
   NOTE: Once you put the pushlock fitting on the hose...it ain't coming off!
4. Repeat step 3 with the straight hose end push lock and the 3' hose, and attach to the AN-12 fitting on the SIDE of the Moroso unit.
5. Remove the filter of the CAI...leave the shroud in place. This will give you room to work with.
6. Mock-place the separator on the CAI shorud, using a clamp or the handy-wife/girlfriend-who-doesn't-mind-helping, and make sure you cut the hoses the right length (i.e. cut off enough, but too much). I placed the quick-connect fittings on the engine so as to better judge where to cut the hose. I suggest printing out the pics and having them handy for reference as to how to route the hoses.
7. Assemble the OEM quick-connect fittings next (don't forget to slide on the hose clamps on the hose 1st so you can tighten them later).
8. Connect the quick connects to the engine, then play with where exactly to mount the bracket on the CAI shroud...mark it with a grease pencil, or whatever is handy.
9. THEN remove the CAI shroud from the car and drill the holes...if you do this step any earlier, you'll probably drill in the wrong spot and end up w/extra holes in the CAI. Note the bolt-head is inside the shroud, therefore the nut is on the separator side, so as not to interfere with the CAI filter. I also took advantage of the fact that I needed to remove the CAI shroud (to drill the bracket holes and attach the bracket), to clean underneath.

Billybix76

Clean your TB! Just did mine yesteday @ 36,450 miles. Wasn't too dirty to look at, but took it out and carefully swabbed it out with CRC electronics part cleaner and did the MAF sensor too. put it all back on and WOW i didnt know how much I was missing! the car jumps now like it did new. and no idle issues. Over time you get so used to the response slipping ever so slightly every day till you wonder if it was real when you could chirp third easily....or just a dream. This should be a sticky! thanks Doug!

07 HOSS Mustang

Hey Mark(Mr Clean) where do you access the drain and do you have a hose extension on it to get it under the car or something? It looks like it could make a mess...
07 Hoss

max2000jp

Is there a tq specification for the tb bolts?

Rash

How exactly do you clean the MAF sensor? You just spray it with the cleaner? I'm just a little worried I'll damage it.

y22kc

This really should be a sticky because I know a lot of people have this problem. I had the same issue until I came across this thread. After cleaning, it idled like brand new!

66COUP

It may not be such a great idea to use one of the mini inline filters for an air compressor. The 1/4" inlet/outlet might restrict the vacuum enough to where the hose may collapse at higher RPMs. IMO, it would be better to go with a 1/2" oil separator like this: http://www2.northerntool.com/product-1/200311655.htm

Billybix76

Yep, just spray it out with electric parts cleaner. there are just two ports to spray into from about 3 inches away, the front and top air vents. Then let it dry for a minute. you can do it without removing the MAF sensor from the inlet tube or CAI but since I have a C & L it was no problem removing two screws and repalcing after cleaning.

DoctorQ

Throttle Body Torque Specs: tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in). That's INCH pounds (not Ft Lbs)

max2000jp

That’s what I figured, but I wanted confirm. They are the same as the 10 bolts on the manifold.

MrClean

I didn't have the bennie of the above posts, when I did mine 2 days ago, so bfore taking the bolts out I "tested" how tight they were, then returned them to approx that tightness...all good here.

So on the MAF sensor cleaning, do you wipe it after spraying the stuff on it? or do you not touch it at all?