Any How-To on Installing SS Brake Lines ?
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Any How-To on Installing SS Brake Lines ?
I have puchased some Earl's SS Brake Lines for my 05 GT as I do some track days now and then. I haven't received them yet but I was wondering if anybody had some tips on installing them.
Are these products necessary/recommended when installing them or just some marketing crap:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...4846476+400041
Is there any instructions on replacing brake lines in the Ford manuals. If so, does anybody have a pdf copy ?
Thanks in advance for your help !
Are these products necessary/recommended when installing them or just some marketing crap:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...4846476+400041
Is there any instructions on replacing brake lines in the Ford manuals. If so, does anybody have a pdf copy ?
Thanks in advance for your help !
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You do not need any of those products. Those products are for making your own An Fitting Stainless Braided hoses for fluid transfer. The brake lines are complete and ready to install.
Richard
Richard
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Just a quick note on the lines. I just installed them about 3 weeks ago, no problems but the lines were marked wrong. Lefts were rights and rights were lefts. Just look at them before installing. All hardware came with them as well.
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Mine were marked incorrectly as well. It's an easy job. Make sure to have a buddy on hand in order to bleed the brakes. I just did mine and used Valvoline Synthetic fluid. The OEM fluid came out pretty nasty looking
#5
I'm purchasing these as well--does anyone have an EDU on the installation?
#6
Procedure? Pics?
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I've never bled brakes or played w/ the lines at all...although I have replaced rotors and pads myself before.
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Good luck !
#8
Line wrenches, eh?
I don't have any of those
Where can I get them, and what sizes are needed?
Also, since you are track crew:
1--What brake fluid are you running?
2--How difficult is it to flush the brake fluid, and not screw up the ABS box? Procedure?
I don't have any of those
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Also, since you are track crew:
1--What brake fluid are you running?
2--How difficult is it to flush the brake fluid, and not screw up the ABS box? Procedure?
#9
For the brake stuff, I use Motul RBF600 DOT4 fluid, and doing a flush is simplicity itself. First, buy 2 sets of Earls Solo Bleeders and a bleeder buddy, they make this absolutely painless. The Solo Bleeders are replacement bleeder screws with a spring-loaded seat that acts as a one-way check valve. The bleeder buddy is just a small plastic bottle whose cap has a magnetic holder and a small tube that plugs into the bleeder screw.
Once you have all the parts installed, start bleeding at the RR caliper. If you're changing fluid, cycle the pedal SLOWLY seven times, and check the fluid level in the bottle, emptying as it starts to get full. Keep an eye on the master cylinder reservoir but don't do anything other than take the cap off until the fluid level gets to the point where the reservoir is getting REALLY low, but don't let it run dry! Add fluid, and keep going on the RR caliper. Once the color of the fluid in the hose of the bleeder buddy changes to a nice, clean golden color, close off the bleeder screw, top off the master cylinder reservoir, and test your pedal. It should be nice and firm. Then bleed the other three calipers in order: LR, RF, LF. Top off the reservoir frequently, and close off the bleeder and test your pedal when the fluid in the tube changes to the nice clean gold. Once you have done all four corners, double-check your pedal feel, do a visual inspection all the way around for leaks, top off your fluid level, and take it for a test drive. The whole thing, lines, solo bleeders, and the flush, will take you around 1.5hrs, including jacking time, by yourself. Less if you jack one corner at a time. No buddy is required.
#10
Line wrenches are readily available from any tool outlet, Snap-On, Mac, Matco, Craftsman, et al... I would buy a small set, ranging from 8mm up to 15mm, and also buy a set of crowsfoot sockets while you're at it (essentially the line wrench end, with a 3/8" drive hole in it in place of the handle) in the same sizes, plus 18mm. You'll really appreciate it when doing suspension work and installing a one-piece driveshaft.
For the brake stuff, I use Motul RBF600 DOT4 fluid, and doing a flush is simplicity itself. First, buy 2 sets of Earls Solo Bleeders and a bleeder buddy, they make this absolutely painless. The Solo Bleeders are replacement bleeder screws with a spring-loaded seat that acts as a one-way check valve. The bleeder buddy is just a small plastic bottle whose cap has a magnetic holder and a small tube that plugs into the bleeder screw.
Once you have all the parts installed, start bleeding at the RR caliper. If you're changing fluid, cycle the pedal SLOWLY seven times, and check the fluid level in the bottle, emptying as it starts to get full. Keep an eye on the master cylinder reservoir but don't do anything other than take the cap off until the fluid level gets to the point where the reservoir is getting REALLY low, but don't let it run dry! Add fluid, and keep going on the RR caliper. Once the color of the fluid in the hose of the bleeder buddy changes to a nice, clean golden color, close off the bleeder screw, top off the master cylinder reservoir, and test your pedal. It should be nice and firm. Then bleed the other three calipers in order: LR, RF, LF. Top off the reservoir frequently, and close off the bleeder and test your pedal when the fluid in the tube changes to the nice clean gold. Once you have done all four corners, double-check your pedal feel, do a visual inspection all the way around for leaks, top off your fluid level, and take it for a test drive. The whole thing, lines, solo bleeders, and the flush, will take you around 1.5hrs, including jacking time, by yourself. Less if you jack one corner at a time. No buddy is required.
For the brake stuff, I use Motul RBF600 DOT4 fluid, and doing a flush is simplicity itself. First, buy 2 sets of Earls Solo Bleeders and a bleeder buddy, they make this absolutely painless. The Solo Bleeders are replacement bleeder screws with a spring-loaded seat that acts as a one-way check valve. The bleeder buddy is just a small plastic bottle whose cap has a magnetic holder and a small tube that plugs into the bleeder screw.
Once you have all the parts installed, start bleeding at the RR caliper. If you're changing fluid, cycle the pedal SLOWLY seven times, and check the fluid level in the bottle, emptying as it starts to get full. Keep an eye on the master cylinder reservoir but don't do anything other than take the cap off until the fluid level gets to the point where the reservoir is getting REALLY low, but don't let it run dry! Add fluid, and keep going on the RR caliper. Once the color of the fluid in the hose of the bleeder buddy changes to a nice, clean golden color, close off the bleeder screw, top off the master cylinder reservoir, and test your pedal. It should be nice and firm. Then bleed the other three calipers in order: LR, RF, LF. Top off the reservoir frequently, and close off the bleeder and test your pedal when the fluid in the tube changes to the nice clean gold. Once you have done all four corners, double-check your pedal feel, do a visual inspection all the way around for leaks, top off your fluid level, and take it for a test drive. The whole thing, lines, solo bleeders, and the flush, will take you around 1.5hrs, including jacking time, by yourself. Less if you jack one corner at a time. No buddy is required.
For a guy with only 5 posts, you're pretty knowledgeable!
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Thanks!
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I also use Motul RBF600 as braking fluid. I do a lot of track and never had my brake fluid boil or pad fade. I must say that the tracks I run have enough straights to help cool down the brakes.
Apart from the looks, I do not get these people who put big brake kits on the 05+ Mustangs. Removing the brake shield, SS lines, good brake fluid and race pads are well enough for running the Stang on the track. Also, at $40 for 2 front disks (take-offs), it isn't even worth upgrading the front disks ... and the rear pads & disks barely wear !
#12
Thanks for the info, guys.
One other question--what are you doing about the caliper slide bolts?
The Ford manual says to discard and replace these with new units.
Are you reusing these, or getting the bolts from a Ford dealer or some other source?
Thanks,
One other question--what are you doing about the caliper slide bolts?
The Ford manual says to discard and replace these with new units.
Are you reusing these, or getting the bolts from a Ford dealer or some other source?
Thanks,
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Replace them ? I never replace them; I remove my calipers about 8 time a year ... no use replacing them unless they are damaged.
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I have seen this type of comment before and laugh evrytime. Just because someone hasnt posted 100million times does not mean they are new to cars or even new to these cars for that matter just means they havnt posted lol
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Richard
#16
#17
Sorry--usually guys that are on this board that have under 50 posts are posting things like "just got 05 GT, where can I find deep dish bullit wheels?/how do I drive manual transmission?/etc etc"
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Drew you have nothing to be sorry about man.
I know what your saying though. Although i have a decent amount of knowledge, I have owned and modded trucks most of my life so when we got the Stang I was one of those asking what CAI Suspension etc because I did not know much about Stangs.
Richard
I know what your saying though. Although i have a decent amount of knowledge, I have owned and modded trucks most of my life so when we got the Stang I was one of those asking what CAI Suspension etc because I did not know much about Stangs.
Richard
#19
Good luck with your brakes!
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yea didnt mean to bash you or anything just wanted to make a point is all. When it comes down to it there are WAY MORE knowledgable people in this forum(some with lower post counts) and most of what I know is due to these forums except the general know how I have picked up over the years. Jts dont base to much off of post numbers it can get you into real life trouble that you really dont want
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