Any Auto's in the 12's?
4/23/05, 08:36 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
:scratch: Anybody got an AUTOMATIC..that runs 12's with a Diablosport Tune? What mods do you have? Which tune works best? Looking for a proven recipe here! Thank you! 
4/23/05, 09:56 PM
#2
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Heres a link to get you started on your 05 auto.
Alternative Auto has an 05 GT automatic they do R&D on and has also ran high 12's..
http://www.alternativeauto.com/misc/r-and-d-gt.html
More info on right hand side of website.
http://www.alternativeauto.com/index.html
Alternative Auto has an 05 GT automatic they do R&D on and has also ran high 12's..
http://www.alternativeauto.com/misc/r-and-d-gt.html
More info on right hand side of website.
http://www.alternativeauto.com/index.html
4/24/05, 03:31 PM
#3
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Stangers@April 23, 2005, 10:59 PM
Heres a link to get you started on your 05 auto.
Alternative Auto has an 05 GT automatic they do R&D on and has also ran high 12's..
http://www.alternativeauto.com/misc/r-and-d-gt.html
More info on right hand side of website.
http://www.alternativeauto.com/index.html
Heres a link to get you started on your 05 auto.
Alternative Auto has an 05 GT automatic they do R&D on and has also ran high 12's..
http://www.alternativeauto.com/misc/r-and-d-gt.html
More info on right hand side of website.
http://www.alternativeauto.com/index.html
4/24/05, 07:25 PM
#4
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I run their tune and it is worth it. They are the only ones that I know of that actually bought a auto to have as their test car, so they should have the most knowledge on them. I too thought about the Predator at first, but I didn't see the minimal adjustments important especially if it's just guessing( unless you are on a dyno or have test equipment). I took knowledge over adjustability.
On subject they are the only one's in the 12's that I know of. This car needs a higher stall convertor to get there and at this time it has not been released. Once it is I think you will see more 12 second slips.
Thanks Mike
On subject they are the only one's in the 12's that I know of. This car needs a higher stall convertor to get there and at this time it has not been released. Once it is I think you will see more 12 second slips.
Thanks Mike
4/24/05, 09:14 PM
#6
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Thread Starter
Originally posted by JST4FN@April 24, 2005, 8:28 PM
I run their tune and it is worth it. They are the only ones that I know of that actually bought a auto to have as their test car, so they should have the most knowledge on them. I too thought about the Predator at first, but I didn't see the minimal adjustments important especially if it's just guessing( unless you are on a dyno or have test equipment). I took knowledge over adjustability.
On subject they are the only one's in the 12's that I know of. This car needs a higher stall convertor to get there and at this time it has not been released. Once it is I think you will see more 12 second slips.
Thanks Mike
I run their tune and it is worth it. They are the only ones that I know of that actually bought a auto to have as their test car, so they should have the most knowledge on them. I too thought about the Predator at first, but I didn't see the minimal adjustments important especially if it's just guessing( unless you are on a dyno or have test equipment). I took knowledge over adjustability.
On subject they are the only one's in the 12's that I know of. This car needs a higher stall convertor to get there and at this time it has not been released. Once it is I think you will see more 12 second slips.
Thanks Mike
4/25/05, 12:03 AM
#7
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I would like for someone to do head to head testing with the SCT and the predator. I know only one of them car read the trouble codes.
I would like to see all three fuels testad. These tunes should be available to everyone at a fair price. Take a GT to SCT and do the tunes.
Then take the car with factory tune to someone available to all of us and have them come up with their very best tune and document.
Return car to factory tune and give the car to the other tuner and see
what he can do with it. Document here also
I would like to see all three fuels testad. These tunes should be available to everyone at a fair price. Take a GT to SCT and do the tunes.
Then take the car with factory tune to someone available to all of us and have them come up with their very best tune and document.
Return car to factory tune and give the car to the other tuner and see
what he can do with it. Document here also
4/25/05, 07:29 PM
#9
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Blazing Saddles+April 25, 2005, 8:08 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Blazing Saddles @ April 25, 2005, 8:08 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-Mongoose@April 25, 2005, 12:06 AM
I would like for someone to do head to head testing with the SCT and the predator. I know only one of them car read the trouble codes.
I would like to see all three fuels testad. These tunes should be available to everyone at a fair price. Take a GT to SCT and do the tunes.
Then take the car with factory tune to someone available to all of us and have them come up with their very best tune and document.
Return car to factory tune and give the car to the other tuner and see
what he can do with it. Document here also
I would like for someone to do head to head testing with the SCT and the predator. I know only one of them car read the trouble codes.
I would like to see all three fuels testad. These tunes should be available to everyone at a fair price. Take a GT to SCT and do the tunes.
Then take the car with factory tune to someone available to all of us and have them come up with their very best tune and document.
Return car to factory tune and give the car to the other tuner and see
what he can do with it. Document here also
Where did you buy your wide band a/f meter? What brand?How much? what's involved? Thanks!
[/b][/quote]
4/25/05, 09:58 PM
#11
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Blazing Saddles@April 25, 2005, 10:04 PM
I bought thr AEM wideband A/F guage from RPM Outlet. At the time it was on sale for $369.00 now it's $419.00. I disconnected the battery on the negative side. I mounted the guage in an Autometer A-pillar guage pod and then cut the cable that goes to the O2 sensor about 8" from the plug. Next I put the car up on jack stands and unbolted the H pipe at the exhaust manifolds. Unplugged the factory O2 sensors and then put a jack stand under the tranny and unbolted the tranny brace. I marked the spot on the drivers side pipe just above the cat. There's not much room to work with so you need to get the position of the weld in bung very close. I stuffed a wet rag into the pipe to collect any debris from making the hole in the pipe. I took a right angle die grinder with a 7/8 dia stone and ground the hole in the pipe. I then took the bung and attached it to the pipe with a hose clamp and tack welded it in place, then removed the hose clamp and finished welding it. I removed the wet rag from the pipe. I then put the O2 sensor in the bung, put a jack under the H-pipe and attached it back to the exhaust manifolds, and then put the tranny brace back on and re-attached the factory O2 sensors. I then cut about 4 feet from the cable that runs to the wideband sensor and spliced and soldered the wires back together useing heat shrink tubeing on each wire and a larger piece to cover the outside of the cable. I plugged in the wideband sensor and used nylon ties to attach the cable to the car. I put the negative cable back on the battery, took my multi meter and found a switched power source under the dash for the positive wire and grounded the black wire. The whole job only took me 8 hours.
Thanks for the info and the great detail!
I bought thr AEM wideband A/F guage from RPM Outlet. At the time it was on sale for $369.00 now it's $419.00. I disconnected the battery on the negative side. I mounted the guage in an Autometer A-pillar guage pod and then cut the cable that goes to the O2 sensor about 8" from the plug. Next I put the car up on jack stands and unbolted the H pipe at the exhaust manifolds. Unplugged the factory O2 sensors and then put a jack stand under the tranny and unbolted the tranny brace. I marked the spot on the drivers side pipe just above the cat. There's not much room to work with so you need to get the position of the weld in bung very close. I stuffed a wet rag into the pipe to collect any debris from making the hole in the pipe. I took a right angle die grinder with a 7/8 dia stone and ground the hole in the pipe. I then took the bung and attached it to the pipe with a hose clamp and tack welded it in place, then removed the hose clamp and finished welding it. I removed the wet rag from the pipe. I then put the O2 sensor in the bung, put a jack under the H-pipe and attached it back to the exhaust manifolds, and then put the tranny brace back on and re-attached the factory O2 sensors. I then cut about 4 feet from the cable that runs to the wideband sensor and spliced and soldered the wires back together useing heat shrink tubeing on each wire and a larger piece to cover the outside of the cable. I plugged in the wideband sensor and used nylon ties to attach the cable to the car. I put the negative cable back on the battery, took my multi meter and found a switched power source under the dash for the positive wire and grounded the black wire. The whole job only took me 8 hours.
Thanks for the info and the great detail!