Another Tokico D-Spec/HP Question
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V6 Member
Joined: April 30, 2008
Posts: 94
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From: Kansas
Another Tokico D-Spec/HP Question
I was wondering if anyone has either Tokico D-Specs or HPs paired with stock springs. most of the streets where I live are rather bumpy and I wouldn't mind a smoother ride around town. also, I know you get the best results when you lower your car, but the geniuses who designed the roads where I live must have though everyone drives lifted trucks (I scrape my front bumper all the time). the most lowering i would consider would be putting roush rear springs on. so, for those of you who would know, would it be worth my money to upgrade to one tokico kit over the other? personally, I like the fact that I can change the ride quality with the d-specs, but is it noticable with stock springs? Thanks
Mach 1 Member
Joined: April 16, 2006
Posts: 912
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From: Colorado
You can adjust the D-Specs and notice a difference through the range regardless of the spring.
The real issue is going to be the nature of the stock spring. Since the stock spring has a relatively low "K" value (lb force per inch compressed) you will still have the nose dive and weight transfer on braking and take off.
What you want to do is match your spring to your need:
The Eibach springs are progressive rate, which means they allow for subtle bumps and expansion joints to move the beginning of the spring travel easily. Once you put the car into a turn, they will lean a couple of degrees and progressively tighten.
The Steeda springs are linear rate, so basically the first inch of compression is at a "K" rate equal to the last inch. You will find that although most Steeda springs drop the car 3/4" to 1 1/4", the effective drop is compensated by a stiffer spring. During braking, the front of the car will not drop below the level the stock car achieves. I have a CDC aggressive chin and no issues with ride height on Steeda springs.
For your purposes, I would suggest a progressive rate spring with minimal drop and the D-Specs. With the D-specs on full "soft" and a nice Eibach spring, you will be amazed at how plush your daily drive will become. Then, if you want to do some carving, set them to full stiff and once you start to push the car, the springs and struts will allow for aggressive driving. Mind you, this is a compromise and you will not achieve race-car like handling. You will however have a DD that is adjustable and will handle like any great street car.
The real issue is going to be the nature of the stock spring. Since the stock spring has a relatively low "K" value (lb force per inch compressed) you will still have the nose dive and weight transfer on braking and take off.
What you want to do is match your spring to your need:
The Eibach springs are progressive rate, which means they allow for subtle bumps and expansion joints to move the beginning of the spring travel easily. Once you put the car into a turn, they will lean a couple of degrees and progressively tighten.
The Steeda springs are linear rate, so basically the first inch of compression is at a "K" rate equal to the last inch. You will find that although most Steeda springs drop the car 3/4" to 1 1/4", the effective drop is compensated by a stiffer spring. During braking, the front of the car will not drop below the level the stock car achieves. I have a CDC aggressive chin and no issues with ride height on Steeda springs.
For your purposes, I would suggest a progressive rate spring with minimal drop and the D-Specs. With the D-specs on full "soft" and a nice Eibach spring, you will be amazed at how plush your daily drive will become. Then, if you want to do some carving, set them to full stiff and once you start to push the car, the springs and struts will allow for aggressive driving. Mind you, this is a compromise and you will not achieve race-car like handling. You will however have a DD that is adjustable and will handle like any great street car.
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V6 Member
Joined: April 30, 2008
Posts: 94
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From: Kansas
Ok, that makes sense. I have been looking for a while, but does anyone know if there are aftermarket, progressive rate springs which give you stock ride height (particularly in the front) while having aspects similar to Eibach springs? I know 3/4 inch is not a lot, but I have measured the bottom of my front bumper to a curb I frequently go over and I barely clear 1/2 - 3/4 inch 
Theoretically, if I were to install Roush rear springs, how much of a drop is it (I was thinking 3/4 inch), also what kind of 'rate' are they? If it does drop that much, would that drop cause my front end to rise (I remember reading in a thread where after they dropped the rear they had to lower the beam of their headlights). And, is it 'healthy' for your car to have two different springs.
I never really have had much problem handling-wise with my front end. I have noticed a difference, though, when there is less weight in the rear of the car (low fuel for example); my car rides better with more weight. Would lowering the rear essentially give me the same effect as having more weight in the back?
Sorry for rambling.
Theoretically, if I were to install Roush rear springs, how much of a drop is it (I was thinking 3/4 inch), also what kind of 'rate' are they? If it does drop that much, would that drop cause my front end to rise (I remember reading in a thread where after they dropped the rear they had to lower the beam of their headlights). And, is it 'healthy' for your car to have two different springs.
I never really have had much problem handling-wise with my front end. I have noticed a difference, though, when there is less weight in the rear of the car (low fuel for example); my car rides better with more weight. Would lowering the rear essentially give me the same effect as having more weight in the back?
Sorry for rambling.
Cobra Member
Joined: August 16, 2005
Posts: 1,079
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From: Central Coast, CA
I have the D specs with stock springs and am quite happy. I did not experiment with the softer settings as a soft ride was not my goal. I was looking for better bump control on the harsher roads.
Stiffer springs are stiffer ride, no bones about. If you are lowered you need a stiffer spring to compensate for less bump travel. Also with a stiffer spring you need more dampimg to control it. More damping means a firmer ride.
Dive and squat are just as much (if not more so) influenced by chassis geometry as spring rates.
Here in Houston TX the roads are in perpetual reconstruction (mainly adding lanes be it freeway or side streets). The car handles the rough temporary sections very well.
To get drop in springs that are stiffer, would require getting someone to custom make you stiffer coils ($$$), though that is not the secret to smoother ride. There is also a little risk in getting the ride height to come out exactly right when building a one off set.
I'd say try the Spec D's, play with the adjustments and see if you can find that sweet spot that gives you the ride you want.
The stock springs by the way are progressive rate.
Short of that, to get stiffer rate and adjustability to pick your own ride height take a look at http://www.ground-control-store.com/index.php
As for protecting that front apron may take some defensive driving tactics. Avoid steep drive ways, if unavoidable, don't take them straight on, etc.. You are not driving a F-150.
Stiffer springs are stiffer ride, no bones about. If you are lowered you need a stiffer spring to compensate for less bump travel. Also with a stiffer spring you need more dampimg to control it. More damping means a firmer ride.
Dive and squat are just as much (if not more so) influenced by chassis geometry as spring rates.
Here in Houston TX the roads are in perpetual reconstruction (mainly adding lanes be it freeway or side streets). The car handles the rough temporary sections very well.
To get drop in springs that are stiffer, would require getting someone to custom make you stiffer coils ($$$), though that is not the secret to smoother ride. There is also a little risk in getting the ride height to come out exactly right when building a one off set.
I'd say try the Spec D's, play with the adjustments and see if you can find that sweet spot that gives you the ride you want.
The stock springs by the way are progressive rate.
Short of that, to get stiffer rate and adjustability to pick your own ride height take a look at http://www.ground-control-store.com/index.php
As for protecting that front apron may take some defensive driving tactics. Avoid steep drive ways, if unavoidable, don't take them straight on, etc.. You are not driving a F-150.
Last edited by RadBOSS; Jun 22, 2008 at 10:14 AM.
Cobra Member
Joined: November 27, 2004
Posts: 1,303
Likes: 2
From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
If you really want to go with the Eibach springs while running the D-specs full soft (or mostly soft), I would definitely recommend the bump steer kit and a very good alignment.
Super Boss Lawman Member
Joined: January 17, 2006
Posts: 4,148
Likes: 3
From: Temecula,CA
You can adjust the D-Specs and notice a difference through the range regardless of the spring.
The real issue is going to be the nature of the stock spring. Since the stock spring has a relatively low "K" value (lb force per inch compressed) you will still have the nose dive and weight transfer on braking and take off.
What you want to do is match your spring to your need:
The Eibach springs are progressive rate, which means they allow for subtle bumps and expansion joints to move the beginning of the spring travel easily. Once you put the car into a turn, they will lean a couple of degrees and progressively tighten.
The Steeda springs are linear rate, so basically the first inch of compression is at a "K" rate equal to the last inch. You will find that although most Steeda springs drop the car 3/4" to 1 1/4", the effective drop is compensated by a stiffer spring. During braking, the front of the car will not drop below the level the stock car achieves. I have a CDC aggressive chin and no issues with ride height on Steeda springs.
For your purposes, I would suggest a progressive rate spring with minimal drop and the D-Specs. With the D-specs on full "soft" and a nice Eibach spring, you will be amazed at how plush your daily drive will become. Then, if you want to do some carving, set them to full stiff and once you start to push the car, the springs and struts will allow for aggressive driving. Mind you, this is a compromise and you will not achieve race-car like handling. You will however have a DD that is adjustable and will handle like any great street car.
The real issue is going to be the nature of the stock spring. Since the stock spring has a relatively low "K" value (lb force per inch compressed) you will still have the nose dive and weight transfer on braking and take off.
What you want to do is match your spring to your need:
The Eibach springs are progressive rate, which means they allow for subtle bumps and expansion joints to move the beginning of the spring travel easily. Once you put the car into a turn, they will lean a couple of degrees and progressively tighten.
The Steeda springs are linear rate, so basically the first inch of compression is at a "K" rate equal to the last inch. You will find that although most Steeda springs drop the car 3/4" to 1 1/4", the effective drop is compensated by a stiffer spring. During braking, the front of the car will not drop below the level the stock car achieves. I have a CDC aggressive chin and no issues with ride height on Steeda springs.
For your purposes, I would suggest a progressive rate spring with minimal drop and the D-Specs. With the D-specs on full "soft" and a nice Eibach spring, you will be amazed at how plush your daily drive will become. Then, if you want to do some carving, set them to full stiff and once you start to push the car, the springs and struts will allow for aggressive driving. Mind you, this is a compromise and you will not achieve race-car like handling. You will however have a DD that is adjustable and will handle like any great street car.
Well said... "plush"... I like that!
Bullitt Member
Joined: January 27, 2007
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Thread Starter
V6 Member
Joined: April 30, 2008
Posts: 94
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From: Kansas
For those with the rear shock adjustment extensions, do the come with the shocks or do you have to buy them separately? Also, how hard are the D-Specs to install; is it a DIY project, or should you have it done (I don't have access to a lift)
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Bullitt Member
Joined: January 27, 2007
Posts: 289
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For those with the rear shock adjustment extensions, do the come with the shocks or do you have to buy them separately? Also, how hard are the D-Specs to install; is it a DIY project, or should you have it done (I don't have access to a lift)
Huzzah!! I have reached my 50th post!
Huzzah!! I have reached my 50th post!
Cobra Member
Joined: August 16, 2005
Posts: 1,079
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From: Central Coast, CA
You need a spring compressor to do the struts (rent). If you are fairly mechanically skilled, have tools, etc., you can DIY. Check out one of Taco Bills article for install to see what you are getting into.
Thread Starter
V6 Member
Joined: April 30, 2008
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From: Kansas
I'll definately check out TacoBill's article (I've used some in the past and they have been very , very helpful). Unfortunately, I don't think I have most of the tools needed to intall them myself (I don't even know where I could rent a spring compressor around where I live); fortunately, my cousin has access to those types of tools, and he is an excellent mechanic.
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