Another happy BMR LCA user!
11/13/05 | 07:16 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Mach 1 Member
Joined: October 12, 2004
Posts: 881
Likes: 1
Installed my BMR lower control arms. Got the nonadjustable arms, with the poly bushings on both ends. $115 from MAK Performance on Ebay, free shipping. Install was *very* easy thanks to many tips from those who have posted here already.
Install
1. Emergency brake OFF;
2. Rear axle on jack stands;
3. Wheels off;
4. Use a screwdriver to pop the emergency brake cable off the caliper;
5. Pull the e-brake cable retaining clip off and pull the cable out of the stock lca;
6. Use a long breaker bar with an 18mm socket on the bolt head end (not the nut end) of the front bolt of the stock lca--switch over and finish with a ratchet;
7. Ditto on the rear;
8. Push the front of the new lca in place--I used a rubber mallet to persuade it into place since the new bushings are a tighter fit;
9. Put the stock bolt back through and tighten until snug;
10. Push the rear of the lca in place and bolt it up snug;
11. Now torque both ends to 75 ft./lbs.
12. Hook the e-brake back up;
13. Grease the bushings using the fittings on both ends;
14. Wheel back on;
15. Repeat for the other side! (only do one side at a time to prevent the axle from really shifting out of place)
I did the install by myself (wife ran out with the kids for two hours, so I had to work fast!) and the only hitch I ran into was on the passenger side--the axle must have shifted about 1/2" back after I unbolted the lca. I ended up using a ratchet strap that had hooks on both ends (the kind you see at Home Depot for a few bucks) to pull the axle forward the 1/2" necessary to align the bolt holes. Hooked one end behind the strut perch and the other end to to a hole in the frame under the door. Ratcheted it tight and then a few more ratchets and the bolt holes were lined up perfectly. Total install time was about an hour (the driver side only took about 10 minutes!).
Driving Impressions:
Wheel hop is gone. I didn't have a major wheelhop problem, since I'm more of a clutch slipper when I launch. Occasionally, though, I want to leave some patches of rubber! Went to the same spot where I've experienced wheel hop during a 3-4k clutch drop--this time, just some nice, smooth, smoky wheelspin before they hooked.
Another thing I've noticed is that the back end feels a bit "tighter" and doesn't waggle as much in hard cornering transitions. I figured the panhard did most of this duty, but I guess the lca's contribute some. This was a bonus for me, and a great surprise since I'm more interested in the twisties than the drag strip. Great mod to do!
Install
1. Emergency brake OFF;
2. Rear axle on jack stands;
3. Wheels off;
4. Use a screwdriver to pop the emergency brake cable off the caliper;
5. Pull the e-brake cable retaining clip off and pull the cable out of the stock lca;
6. Use a long breaker bar with an 18mm socket on the bolt head end (not the nut end) of the front bolt of the stock lca--switch over and finish with a ratchet;
7. Ditto on the rear;
8. Push the front of the new lca in place--I used a rubber mallet to persuade it into place since the new bushings are a tighter fit;
9. Put the stock bolt back through and tighten until snug;
10. Push the rear of the lca in place and bolt it up snug;
11. Now torque both ends to 75 ft./lbs.
12. Hook the e-brake back up;
13. Grease the bushings using the fittings on both ends;
14. Wheel back on;
15. Repeat for the other side! (only do one side at a time to prevent the axle from really shifting out of place)
I did the install by myself (wife ran out with the kids for two hours, so I had to work fast!) and the only hitch I ran into was on the passenger side--the axle must have shifted about 1/2" back after I unbolted the lca. I ended up using a ratchet strap that had hooks on both ends (the kind you see at Home Depot for a few bucks) to pull the axle forward the 1/2" necessary to align the bolt holes. Hooked one end behind the strut perch and the other end to to a hole in the frame under the door. Ratcheted it tight and then a few more ratchets and the bolt holes were lined up perfectly. Total install time was about an hour (the driver side only took about 10 minutes!).
Driving Impressions:
Wheel hop is gone. I didn't have a major wheelhop problem, since I'm more of a clutch slipper when I launch. Occasionally, though, I want to leave some patches of rubber! Went to the same spot where I've experienced wheel hop during a 3-4k clutch drop--this time, just some nice, smooth, smoky wheelspin before they hooked.
Another thing I've noticed is that the back end feels a bit "tighter" and doesn't waggle as much in hard cornering transitions. I figured the panhard did most of this duty, but I guess the lca's contribute some. This was a bonus for me, and a great surprise since I'm more interested in the twisties than the drag strip. Great mod to do!
11/13/05 | 09:10 PM
#11
Cobra Member
Joined: February 20, 2005
Posts: 1,292
Likes: 0
Well, when I installed mine I jacked the rear end diff (pumkin) and set the tubes on stands.
Also, if anyone wishes to use the bearing ends just spray them with WD40 and the noises are gone. Mine dont peep anymore.
-Dan
Also, if anyone wishes to use the bearing ends just spray them with WD40 and the noises are gone. Mine dont peep anymore.
-Dan
11/13/05 | 11:03 PM
#13
11/14/05 | 12:13 AM
#18
V6 Member
Joined: July 1, 2005
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
I have the same non-adjustable arms with the poly bushings, and I agree, they are great. They have really reduced wheelhop (should be even better once I install the upper arm). I also found that they seemed to tighten up the rear some in general, but without making the ride any harsher. Also, I have not noticed any additional noises or vibrations as a result.
