Originally Posted by Stig

Well, can't speak for 94Tbird but I had to remove the starter and both engine mounts, not only to get the ARH headers in, but to get the shorty's out!

Unless you have VERY thin arms, I can't see how you'd do it without jacking the engine either

Getting the old studs off and the new bolts in is TOUGH!

Originally Posted by SP_51-F1

Seems everyone else already has a tubular K-member. Did you, or were you trying to work around the stock piece?

I'm really excited that the H-pipes are coming out now. I'd like to get in on the group buy, but $1k does not fit into the current mod budget. Espcially since I feel it would be best to install a new K-member at the same time. Oh well, there is always next month, LOL.

Thanks to 94tbird for the testing.

Originally Posted by Stig

When I fitted them, I had the stock K-member in place - No question that it would be easier with a tubular version!

Originally Posted by Faber

OMG

I love how that sounds!

Originally Posted by Stig

Errr... not exactly.

I've just finished a major mod-installation, during which I removed and replaced the entire exhaust system.

I have American Racing headers, catted X-pipe and SLP loudmouths.

The trouble I found with the ARH header is that they are TOO well made! Specifically, the holes for the mounting bolts. The OEM shorty's are mounted with studs and have larger holes than the ARH headers which use bolts. No matter how hard I tried, I couldn't get the drivers side header on as there wasn't enough tolerance in the fit to get the 8th bolt in!

I widened the outermost 4 holes (the slotted ones) with a stepped drill and it went straight on. That was after an hour of cursing trying to fit them!

The only other hassle I had is that they interefered with the torque limiters - that said, this could be because of my new BMR K-Member which drops the engine some.

They do sound fanstastic though. I did a baseline dyno run and am due to do another on the 12th May for comparison.

Pretty much the entire suspension system was replaced on the car and the results are amazing - it's literally a different car to drive.

The mod list reads as follows:

Main spec
2007 Black GT/CS
California Special
Black/Dove Leather Interior
Interior Upgrade
Comfort Pack
GT Appearance Pack

Interior mods
Billet cup holder
Billet door pins
Carbon Fibre Dash kit

[Exterior mods
10� Satin black Shelby stripes (1-1/2� gap)
Billet fuel door
Light smoke front window tint
Limo tint rear quartelight and rear window tint
Moleskins
Hood gas struts
Carbon fibre mirror covers

Intake
C&L Racer CAI
Diablosport Predator
Steeda Billet CMCV Delete Plates

Engine/trans
Steeda UPDs
Steeda Tri-Ax shifter

Exhaust
American Racing 1-3/4� Stainless Steel Headers with Catted X-pipe
SLP Loudmouths

Suspension
Tokico D-spec dampers
Roush front/rear springs
Roush front/rear anti roll bars
[BMR K-Member
BMR A-arms
BMR Adjustable Upper Control Arm
BMR control arm mounting bracket
BMR adjustable Lower Control Arms
BMR Lower Control Arm lowering brackets
BMR adjustable panhard rod
BMR panhard rod brace
BMR strut brace
BMR Front/Rear Driveshaft safety loops
BMR Chassis stiffener
CHE 4-point K-member brace with torque limiters

Brakes
GT500 Brembo 14� brake upgrade
Goodridge stainless steel braided brake lines
Ferodo pads

Wheels/tyres
18� Bullitt polished alloys
1" Driftworks spacers

Video of the 'before' here: http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/during13.jpg


And the 'after' : http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t...tcs-modded.flv

Even better in the 'shop: http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t...ddedindoor.flv

Originally Posted by Stig

Unless you have VERY thin arms, I can't see how you'd do it without jacking the engine either

Getting the old studs off and the new bolts in is TOUGH!

Originally Posted by SixtySix

In a backyard, it's a tough one. On a lift, it's easy...especially if you drop the crossmember.