went to American Racing Headers today to get the headers with an H pipe installed. i was the first H pipe made as well for these headers which was cool. Nick, Jose, and the guys at American Racing are AWESOME to say the least, and Nick even offered to buy me lunch.

The header install went smooth as silk and the clearance is amazing, even with the CHE K member brace with torque limiters. Nick also threw in my Prothane motor mounts for me as well.

The H pipe sounds just like an H pipe should, Deep, Growls, rumbles. Everything i wanted in my mid pipe. The headers are made with amazing quality and care too. i witnessed tons of sets of headers being made from straight pipe, to bending, welding and all. it is truly an amazing process.

well here are the pics:

 

Looks killer....... got clips??

 

nice setup. I really want to get a set of headers on my stang

 

It sure is awesome. I can't wait to hear clips. I am sure it will sound amazing.

 

Now I REALLY can't wait for CR to give me a call. . I have a question. In the pics, it looks like you only have one side of the o2 sensors hooked up? Just wondered about that.

BTW, make sure you change your sig to H pipe instead of X . Thanks for the pics.

 

Like he said...
"Got clips??"

 

Those are nice. Hope I can get a set on mine one of these days.

 

Awe ****......I'm so glad I'm getting in on this group buy Now I can't wait to here the clips.

 

i dont have the rear o2s hooked up because i have no cats. the one you see is my wideband gague. the rear o2's are turned off in the tune. the other bung is capped off.


i wasnt part of the group buy but i was the R&D for this little adventure haha. i have no sound clips yet but i can garun-****-tee its worth waiting for

 

Those are beautiful....I'm officially jealous now.

 

Dang it! Why are all the cool shops always on one of the coasts? Why doesn't anyone ever work out of, oh, lets say, ARKANSAS (no jokes, I don't want to hear it!)!! We don't have crap around here!!

Love the headers man, definately the one's I'm going to go with because of the H, as soon as budget permits.

 

That was exactly as I imagined. I'm glad they worked out for you! I can't wait to get some of them down here to install! Come on UPS man!!!

CR

 

hes still gotta make em mine was the prototype. we have to have the drivers side rear bung moved as it interferes with the transmission crossmember as it is. i jsut capped it and installed my wideband on the pass side. no worries though we got it all worked out

 

Yeah, he told me you were coming down for it, I just been so busy I never got around to asking him if you made it today.

The bung is a minor setback. If that's the worst thing that happened, then **** we're in good shape!

 

How many hoops did you have to jump through to get these installed? I've heard horror stories about dropping the motor to get headers on.

 

for other brands maybe. these headers fit like a glove. the ONLY thing that needs to be disconnected is the steering shaft. 1 minor little thing and your all set.

 

Awww-yeah...that's what I wanted to hear!

I plan on doing this myself in the garage, so that is sweet music to my ears. CR, I'm calling you TODAY for my little package deal I keep PM-ing you about.

 

No starter removal? No engine jacking? How much space is needed under the car to get the headers up and in? I am also planning on installing in my garage.

 

Errr... not exactly.

I've just finished a major mod-installation, during which I removed and replaced the entire exhaust system.

I have American Racing headers, catted X-pipe and SLP loudmouths.

The trouble I found with the ARH header is that they are TOO well made! Specifically, the holes for the mounting bolts. The OEM shorty's are mounted with studs and have larger holes than the ARH headers which use bolts. No matter how hard I tried, I couldn't get the drivers side header on as there wasn't enough tolerance in the fit to get the 8th bolt in!

I widened the outermost 4 holes (the slotted ones) with a stepped drill and it went straight on. That was after an hour of cursing trying to fit them!

The only other hassle I had is that they interefered with the torque limiters - that said, this could be because of my new BMR K-Member which drops the engine some.

They do sound fanstastic though. I did a baseline dyno run and am due to do another on the 12th May for comparison.

Pretty much the entire suspension system was replaced on the car and the results are amazing - it's literally a different car to drive.

The mod list reads as follows:

Main spec
2007 Black GT/CS
California Special
Black/Dove Leather Interior
Interior Upgrade
Comfort Pack
GT Appearance Pack

Interior mods
Billet cup holder
Billet door pins
Carbon Fibre Dash kit

[Exterior mods
10” Satin black Shelby stripes (1-1/2” gap)
Billet fuel door
Light smoke front window tint
Limo tint rear quartelight and rear window tint
Moleskins
Hood gas struts
Carbon fibre mirror covers

Intake
C&L Racer CAI
Diablosport Predator
Steeda Billet CMCV Delete Plates

Engine/trans
Steeda UPDs
Steeda Tri-Ax shifter

Exhaust
American Racing 1-3/4” Stainless Steel Headers with Catted X-pipe
SLP Loudmouths

Suspension
Tokico D-spec dampers
Roush front/rear springs
Roush front/rear anti roll bars
[BMR K-Member
BMR A-arms
BMR Adjustable Upper Control Arm
BMR control arm mounting bracket
BMR adjustable Lower Control Arms
BMR Lower Control Arm lowering brackets
BMR adjustable panhard rod
BMR panhard rod brace
BMR strut brace
BMR Front/Rear Driveshaft safety loops
BMR Chassis stiffener
CHE 4-point K-member brace with torque limiters

Brakes
GT500 Brembo 14” brake upgrade
Goodridge stainless steel braided brake lines
Ferodo pads

Wheels/tyres
18” Bullitt polished alloys
1" Driftworks spacers

Video of the 'before' here: http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/during13.jpg


And the 'after' : http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t...tcs-modded.flv

Even better in the 'shop: http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t...ddedindoor.flv

 

Well, can't speak for 94Tbird but I had to remove the starter and both engine mounts, not only to get the ARH headers in, but to get the shorty's out!

Unless you have VERY thin arms, I can't see how you'd do it without jacking the engine either

Getting the old studs off and the new bolts in is TOUGH!