Can anything cause this other then a bad regulator? For example could the push pin connector (not the battery wire) have anything to do with it if it was not making good contact?

Thanks

 

i thought you said you had constant 13v in your other thread and now you have 22v.......

how are you testing your alternator?

 

That was the old alternator. This was the replacement. I put my tester on the battery and it was 18v and none of my electrical accessories worked. I disconnected the lead to the alt and ran the car on the battery alone and my accessories came back and the output on the alt was 22v. From other things I have read it's the regulator. Guess I am just having bad luck.

 

where did you get the new one from? How much did it cost?

 

New? I but a used one with 90 day warranty for $100. New is $226 which is my next step if I have issues with the replacement.

 

Hey, you might want to consider upgrading beyond the regular capacity alternator. A stock mustang alternator will already have trouble keeping up with the power demands of headlights + defrost + air fans + radio at the same time, at idle. I see you have UDP's, which will even further reduce the speed at which your alternator is turning at idle. This will cause your devices to try to pull more power than your alternator can provide, draining your battery, and then taxing your alternator heavily as it tries to recharge your battery when you're moving again.

Especially w/ UDP's, I think getting an upgraded alternator that outputs more than the factory version would last alot longer.

I think Doug on this forum (forgot his forum-name, might just be "Doug") went through 2-3 factory alternators, before finally spending $350 on a PA Performance 200A alternator - he also had UDP's if I recall correctly.