Could someone explain, after installing Adjustable LCAs, how and why you "adjust" them. iF the stock ones are a certain legnth/degree, why would you need to adjust them?

:scratch: sorry if this sounds dumb, but I know little about suspension parts.

 

I was wondering the same thing

 

Pinion angle. This is being touched on in another thread somewhere in here. Basically, if you radically lower (or raise) your stock suspension, having adjustable arms allows you to get your pinion angle back to the stock angle.

Not sure if this is necessary on the minor drops most people are doing (e.g. the Steeda kit or the Eiback Pro kit). I'd guess it probably isn't. However, if you are planning on radically lowering, then they may be worth the extra coin. Also, if you are a serious weekend warrior at the drag strip, you may want to adjust the pinion angle to whatever is optimal for your setup to reduce stress on the driveline.

I plan on getting the Steeda springs or Eibach Pro kit (or cutting the stockers) and getting the BMR nonadjustable arms, and I won't be worrying about it. I will probably call or email Steeda to ask about this issue at some point in time, since they do sell a drop kit and nonadjustable LCA's.

 

awesome, exactly what I was looking for. thanks man!

 

There are 2 other threads regarding this pinion issue. I emailed BMR tonight and asked if I had to go with adjustable LCR's when installing the Eibach Pro Kit which will only lower the car approximately 1.25 in the rear.

 

When I get my LCA's, I will just be getting the non-adjustable. Most likely from MMR. It's simpler and cheaper. If you don't need it, why get it?

 

Just some info on the subject.

Pinion angle

 

thanks Mark

 

Gus from Steeda answered all my questions. All I can say to that is I am *very* impressed with their customer service. Prompt responses and great answers to my questions!

I'll paste in what he said so I don't butcher it:

"Adjustable lower control arms can be used for pinion angle adjustment.
They can also be used to square up the rear end in relation to the front
for fine tuning front/rear alignement in a road race application. You
could also take this a step further with our adjustable panhard rod and
use this to center the rear end (the rear end from the factory is
actually offset slightly to one side and our adjustment on the rod is
lengthwise) to find tune front rear alignment and improve lateral
stability over the factory panhard rod.

But there is an old saying that says 'keep it simple, stupid'. Sometimes
you give someone enough rope to hang themselves from, and they will.

Ideally, the average enthusiast (probably 90% of our customers) doesn't
need all this adjustment. Especially when all they are looking to do is
hook better. We have had many customers report 2 to 3 tenths improvement
in their 60ft times with just our billet lower control arms alone as
well as elimination of wheel hop. You can make further improvement with
our adjustable upper link that is coming up soon. That’s really all the
average customer should need."

Thanks again, Gus at Steeda!