calpate

I have $2,000 to spend on mods for an upcomong HPDE at Talladega Gran Prix on June 5 and need suggestions on the best way to spend the cash. Currently I have the following performance related mods on my 2008 GT:

Kenne Bell 2.6 (467 rwhp)
Roush Stage 3 suspension
Brembo Gran Turismo upgrade (4 piston with 14" slotted rotors)
Shelby 20" Razors with Nitto Invos

I was thinking of some 18" wheels with Kumho V710s but wasn't sure if that was my best bang for the buck or if I would be better off with some chassis upgrades. I am also still using the stock seat so wasn't sure about thoughts on that. Your suggestions are VERY much appreciated.

Glenn

long tube Headers?

The Reverend

I would suggest more HDPE. Instruction and experience are the best modifications. But if you have to tinker with the car I would say weight reduction. A nice set of 17 lbs or less 18" wheels with Hoosier R6 tires. Also consider a roll bar/harness setup.

SONICBOOST

Longtubes and cams

Americanboy86

I know longtubes are expensive, but I would say longtubes as well. They have a ridiculously awesome sound, they clean up your engine bay and look great, and they may or may not give you some extra power (I've read stuff that says both things for FI cars).

jlmounce

How experienced are you on track? If this is your first outing, I wouldn't do anything additional period. Save for some maintenance items like fresh brake pads, fresh fluid, top off oils etc.

Reason being is that if you're not experienced on track, your car might end up being a bit of a handful. Adding go fast parts here and there tend to either create problems at the limit, or mask poor driving habits. The R compounds really tend to do that.

Remember a slow car with a great driver will lap faster than a fast car with a poor driver. You see it all the time. Yuppies in high dollar near exotic cars finding themselves being past by a miata with 120hp.

My guess based on your post is that this might be your first track outing or if not, one of your first.

There's a few tricks here and there you can do with the car without spending money to have a better driving experience and go faster.

In regards to the seat. Here's a nice little trick. Climb in and move your seat as far back as it'll go. Put your seat belt on and get it as tight as possible. Then yank hard and fast on the belt to get it to lock. With the belt locked and you holding it in the locked state, move your seat up to your normal driving position. The tension will keep the belt locked and also you in place...regardless of your seats.

The overhead cam modulars keep a lot of oil in the heads. Before you go on track add a quart of oil. Make sure you bring tools to bleed and maintain your brake system. You'll end up bleeding your brakes at the very least once per day (assuming multi-day track event). I tend to bleed them about every other session as I do a lot of trail braking which heats them up considerably.

This of course means bringing additional fluid. I like the ATE Super Blue and Type 200. Others like Motul or the Castrol stuff. DON'T use anything DOT5.

Bring at least 1 extra rotor for front and rear incase you crack one.

The absolute best thing you can do to make yourself quicker is set your car up so that you don't worry about it. That way you can focus on driving and build your situational awareness.

A note on your quarter window louvers. If you can, you might consider taking them off for the event. The more visibility you have the better. Especially if you haven't built a lot of situational awareness yet.

Lastly, regardless of who he/she is or what he/she drives or how he/she teaches LISTEN to your instructor. They'll help you go faster and conquer any fears or frustrations you have on the day. And yes, you'll have some fear.

Going 135-150mph is one thing. Going 135-150mph knowing you have a sharp decreasing radius turn ahead with a car in front of you and two cars behind you is a little different. So, keep an open mind, listen to your instructor and drink LOTS of water!

Good luck!!

stupidgenius36

If you do decide on smaller wheels and tires, make sure they'll clear your brakes first.

calpate

Thanks for all of the advice. As for my personal experience, I have run this car in different configurations about 10 times. I have also completed the 3 day Gran Prix Road Racing Course at Bob Bondurant.

I feel as if I have plenty of power at this point and I have what I consider a pretty good feel for the car. Not saying I am a pro by any stretch of the imagination and I welcome the opportunity to learn more each time out. I'm not one of those that thinks he knows everything and goes out there and endangers others (we have enough of those).

As I talk to vendors I am hearing trailing arms, upper 3rd link, panhard bar/brace, tires/wheels, watts link, etc. My understanding of the geometry of the S197 suspension leaves a lot to be desired so what are your thoughts on these things?

Jl thanks for the advice on the seatbelt. I will definitely use that!

calpate

Brake ducts?

Stinger1982

you need upgraded brake pads. keep the street tires (best to learn on, r comp and slicks cover up driving mistakes)

a Hawk HPS is a good pad for a track day on street tires.

You need to do a lot more HPDE's before you start spending $2,000 on the car to prepare.
There is a car local to me here (2005 GT) thats has $20,000 in mods done to (very similar to your car) and I was 7 seconds a lap faster with a STOCK GT/CS with only hawk race brakes and Hoosier R6's.

You need to go learn the car. You need to go learn yourself. Listen to your instructors. Take it from someone who started out just like you and is now going to be competing for the NASA national title in TT-A.

If you would like to discuss with me on the subject send me a PM I would be happy to give you my phone # and we can chat

Ministang

You definitely don't need more power mods for an HPDE. Seeing you have upgraded your brakes and suspension to some degree, I'd focus on safety modifications and a better wheel/tire combo. While the grip of R-comps like Hoosiers or Kumho V710's can be a lot of fun at an HPDE, it is kind of a waste IMHO since it isn't any kind of timed competition. If you step up to time-trialing, then R-comps might be a good addition. My first HPDE was on Kumho R-comps, but I already had them for autocrossing. I'd suggest an 18" wheel/tire combination with one of the top street tires like the Dunlop Star Spec, Kumho XS, Bridgestone RE-11, etc.

If you are planning on doing a lot of HPDE's with the car in the future, I'd think you'll eventually want to add at least a 4-point rollbar, better seat, and harness for safety.

foolio2k4

assuming you have the usual: pads and fluid. I dont know what Roush stage 3 comes with but if you already have dampers/springs/sway bars then ok. Watts Link would help but I dont know what kind i would suggest since I havent tried any of them. Wheels/Tires are an important combo than can shave seconds off your time. Other goals would be in terms of weight reduction. I swapped out my driver seat for some recaro profi SPG and love them. No movement at all.

70MACH1OWNER

Yeah I agree with others the last thing you need is more horsepower. You need to control what you have. I think the watts link and better tires is what you need. Not really bigger tires.

Antigini-GT/CS

Pads, awesome tires and go from there. Perhaps some weight loss?

calpate

Thanks so much for all of the advice.