'06 GT Mustang Resurrection
8/31/07, 08:42 PM
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'06 GT Mustang Resurrection
Okay everyone, I’m within a week away from making some forward progress. I believe my car is repairable and will not be totaled. In the event it can be fixed I have several pieces of homework to do and need some help. Also, this is going to be a daily driver.
If I am going to have my car fixed I intend to use the funds to choose the parts I want and possible pay anything additional while the labor is being done. Here are the few things that will need to be changed for certain:
Engine: I know that there are tons of companies that do this kind of stuff, so maybe some recommendations would be good. But what are my options in terms of engines? Are there other options that will still be smog legal so that I don’t have to go with a replacement stock motor? Can I get a more powerful and stronger engine in it for under $7500 (the estimated cost of a replacement engine)?
I plan to go with a turbo or s/c in the near future so I was told I should, at a minimum get forged pistons during this process. I like the idea of the remote mounted turbo. Any other suggestions? Which companies are the best in terms of providing me with this information? (I’ve seen the ads in the magazines and will be calling a few of them as well).
Transmission: I was told that I could swap in a stronger 5-speed transmission that is comparable in price to a stock unit. So this is certainly one thing I’d like to upgrade while I’m at it.
Flywheel/Clutch: I’m thinking of going with a Fidanza aluminum flywheel and most likely a clutch while I’m at it to handle higher horsepower amounts.
Exhaust Pipes: since they’re replacing them I figured I’d go with a Bassani X-pipe for example.
Driveshaft: Although I do have the stock unit I wonder if the cost of a new one will be included since the one on the car destroyed itself. If it is replaced I have a hard time considering another 1-piece. I’ve read lately of the problems with a batch of them from a recent group buy. I’m thinking using the stock one would be safest….. does anyone feel confident that a one-piece (i.e. aluminum one) could safely be used w/o any vibrations? I dunno…. I’m scared on this one….
Rearend: I have 3.73 gears sitting in my garage since I decided against them and instead installed the 4.10 gear. If I am going to turbo or s/c should I have the 3.73s put in at this point?
Anyways, this is my starting point and now that I am closer to getting to the repair process I want to begin the necessary research and be prepared as best possible. Thanks for all of the previous support (http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=60950) it has been a crazy ride these last several months!
If I am going to have my car fixed I intend to use the funds to choose the parts I want and possible pay anything additional while the labor is being done. Here are the few things that will need to be changed for certain:
- Engine (the block cracked in a complete circle where it meets up with the transmission).
- Transmission (the output shaft is bent and the case is cracked in many many pieces)
- Flywheel (some of the teeth have been ground away against the teeth from the starter)
- Exhaust pipes in the center of the car (the mufflers should be fine)
- Driveshaft will most likely be replaced (the aftermarket one blew apart)
- Starter (this cracked off as well)
- The rear end may be fine, I just had 4.10 gears installed.
Engine: I know that there are tons of companies that do this kind of stuff, so maybe some recommendations would be good. But what are my options in terms of engines? Are there other options that will still be smog legal so that I don’t have to go with a replacement stock motor? Can I get a more powerful and stronger engine in it for under $7500 (the estimated cost of a replacement engine)?
I plan to go with a turbo or s/c in the near future so I was told I should, at a minimum get forged pistons during this process. I like the idea of the remote mounted turbo. Any other suggestions? Which companies are the best in terms of providing me with this information? (I’ve seen the ads in the magazines and will be calling a few of them as well).
Transmission: I was told that I could swap in a stronger 5-speed transmission that is comparable in price to a stock unit. So this is certainly one thing I’d like to upgrade while I’m at it.
Flywheel/Clutch: I’m thinking of going with a Fidanza aluminum flywheel and most likely a clutch while I’m at it to handle higher horsepower amounts.
Exhaust Pipes: since they’re replacing them I figured I’d go with a Bassani X-pipe for example.
Driveshaft: Although I do have the stock unit I wonder if the cost of a new one will be included since the one on the car destroyed itself. If it is replaced I have a hard time considering another 1-piece. I’ve read lately of the problems with a batch of them from a recent group buy. I’m thinking using the stock one would be safest….. does anyone feel confident that a one-piece (i.e. aluminum one) could safely be used w/o any vibrations? I dunno…. I’m scared on this one….
Rearend: I have 3.73 gears sitting in my garage since I decided against them and instead installed the 4.10 gear. If I am going to turbo or s/c should I have the 3.73s put in at this point?
Anyways, this is my starting point and now that I am closer to getting to the repair process I want to begin the necessary research and be prepared as best possible. Thanks for all of the previous support (http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=60950) it has been a crazy ride these last several months!
9/1/07, 07:24 AM
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Engine: I know that there are tons of companies that do this kind of stuff, so maybe some recommendations would be good. But what are my options in terms of engines? Are there other options that will still be smog legal so that I don’t have to go with a replacement stock motor? Can I get a more powerful and stronger engine in it for under $7500 (the estimated cost of a replacement engine)?
I plan to go with a turbo or s/c in the near future so I was told I should, at a minimum get forged pistons during this process. I like the idea of the remote mounted turbo. Any other suggestions? Which companies are the best in terms of providing me with this information? (I’ve seen the ads in the magazines and will be calling a few of them as well).
Transmission: I was told that I could swap in a stronger 5-speed transmission that is comparable in price to a stock unit. So this is certainly one thing I’d like to upgrade while I’m at it.
Flywheel/Clutch: I’m thinking of going with a Fidanza aluminum flywheel and most likely a clutch while I’m at it to handle higher horsepower amounts.
Exhaust Pipes: since they’re replacing them I figured I’d go with a Bassani X-pipe for example.
Driveshaft: Although I do have the stock unit I wonder if the cost of a new one will be included since the one on the car destroyed itself. If it is replaced I have a hard time considering another 1-piece. I’ve read lately of the problems with a batch of them from a recent group buy. I’m thinking using the stock one would be safest….. does anyone feel confident that a one-piece (i.e. aluminum one) could safely be used w/o any vibrations? I dunno…. I’m scared on this one….
Rearend: I have 3.73 gears sitting in my garage since I decided against them and instead installed the 4.10 gear. If I am going to turbo or s/c should I have the 3.73s put in at this point?
Anyways, this is my starting point and now that I am closer to getting to the repair process I want to begin the necessary research and be prepared as best possible. Thanks for all of the previous support (http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=60950) it has been a crazy ride these last several months!
I plan to go with a turbo or s/c in the near future so I was told I should, at a minimum get forged pistons during this process. I like the idea of the remote mounted turbo. Any other suggestions? Which companies are the best in terms of providing me with this information? (I’ve seen the ads in the magazines and will be calling a few of them as well).
Transmission: I was told that I could swap in a stronger 5-speed transmission that is comparable in price to a stock unit. So this is certainly one thing I’d like to upgrade while I’m at it.
Flywheel/Clutch: I’m thinking of going with a Fidanza aluminum flywheel and most likely a clutch while I’m at it to handle higher horsepower amounts.
Exhaust Pipes: since they’re replacing them I figured I’d go with a Bassani X-pipe for example.
Driveshaft: Although I do have the stock unit I wonder if the cost of a new one will be included since the one on the car destroyed itself. If it is replaced I have a hard time considering another 1-piece. I’ve read lately of the problems with a batch of them from a recent group buy. I’m thinking using the stock one would be safest….. does anyone feel confident that a one-piece (i.e. aluminum one) could safely be used w/o any vibrations? I dunno…. I’m scared on this one….
Rearend: I have 3.73 gears sitting in my garage since I decided against them and instead installed the 4.10 gear. If I am going to turbo or s/c should I have the 3.73s put in at this point?
Anyways, this is my starting point and now that I am closer to getting to the repair process I want to begin the necessary research and be prepared as best possible. Thanks for all of the previous support (http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=60950) it has been a crazy ride these last several months!
What the hell did you do to that car????? haha ok nevermind now i rememebr seeing the old thread
Anyway Talk to Larry_H. He can build you a shortblock for aprox 3500. you can reuse your heads and cams if you want to keep the cost down, or go with soemthing like the Livernois or Fox LAke heads. Anything but JDM Heads. Im not sure if he is a member of these forums but his email address is lhays1953@yahoo.com
As for the clutch, id recommend a spec Stage 3+. bee running mine with my KB for almsot a year now with no issues.
For the tranny, Look into the GT500 Tranny. Steeda has em for aproximately 3000 shipped. not sure what a 5 speed costs but the 6 speed is nice and is what i am using for my new motor.
The problem with the stock driveshaft is when you start making power with your turbo or SC. i would not be caught dead with a 2 piece at high pwoer levels. Get a Powerhouse shaft and be done with it. get a driveshaft loop to protect the car in case of failure (which none of the powerhouses have failed to date) and your set
I run my 4.10s with my KB and i love it
9/1/07, 03:08 PM
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Look into a crate motor from Ford Racing. They offer some bada$$ setups for comparitively little $$. I personally like the 460 with 550HP for $6,700. Not only is that thing a beast, but you won't need to go FI to put up some major numbers. No replacement for Displacement baby!!
9/1/07, 03:19 PM
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Look into a crate motor from Ford Racing. They offer some bada$$ setups for comparitively little $$. I personally like the 460 with 550HP for $6,700. Not only is that thing a beast, but you won't need to go FI to put up some major numbers. No replacement for Displacement baby!!
9/1/07, 09:03 PM
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If you have a local Mustang tuner or performance center you can get a lot of good info from them. I`ve got Delk Performance close to me so I know I can get just about anything done.
I`ve been looking around and like what DSS is doing with the 4.6. They offer short and long blocks for any power level. They also have some very nice looking 3v CNC ported heads for less than $2K. New FRPP castings with a full on CNC port job, larger valves, high lift springs and retainers.
If I were you, I would take the opportunity to do a stroker motor. The extra displacement will cost you more up front, but when you add a turbo or SC you will get way more torque at reasonable boost levels. A basic stroker build with forged pistons and rods and a Scat crank shouldn`t be too pricey. Add the CNC ported heads and maybe look at what Comp Cams has available in camshafts for the 3v. Then stick an intercooled Whipple on top and you should be looking at about 500 rwhp and 500 rwt. Or there about.
Tranny wise I would keep it simple. Check out the TKO 500 and 600 kits that D&D has. The trannies themselves are both under $2K and are strong 5-speeds.
Driveshaft wise I recommend going with the Spydershaft(www.leonardracing.com). Built with Ford parts for your car. I`ve heard nothing but good from the Spydershaft users and the price is right.
I like Spec`s clutches and flywheels. I know a bunch of 5.0 guys that run nothing but Spec stuff and swear by it. Their alum. flywheel is about $350.00 and their Stage 2+ clutch kit is about $399.99 and is rated to 620 ft/lbs with a factory like pedal feel. Great for a daily driver with a power adder.
If you are definitaly going to go turbo or SC I would beef up the rear end a little. Change it over to a 31 spline set up. Moser has axles for $240.00 a set. Perfect time to upgrade the differential too. I`ve been looking hard at the Auburn Ected unit. I like this unit because it acts as a normal limited slip until you flip the switch and lock it. So you never have less than LS traction. Also uses a regular clutch pack instead of the cone clutches. Making it cheaper to rebuild. And it`s not expensive.
I would leave your 4.10 gears in until you get to the point of having traction/launch issues. Then you could step down to your 3.73`s. If you can hook up then more gear is always better.
It`s good to see you getting to the point that you can start making plans for the rebuild and improvements. Keep it up and good luck bro.
Eric
I`ve been looking around and like what DSS is doing with the 4.6. They offer short and long blocks for any power level. They also have some very nice looking 3v CNC ported heads for less than $2K. New FRPP castings with a full on CNC port job, larger valves, high lift springs and retainers.
If I were you, I would take the opportunity to do a stroker motor. The extra displacement will cost you more up front, but when you add a turbo or SC you will get way more torque at reasonable boost levels. A basic stroker build with forged pistons and rods and a Scat crank shouldn`t be too pricey. Add the CNC ported heads and maybe look at what Comp Cams has available in camshafts for the 3v. Then stick an intercooled Whipple on top and you should be looking at about 500 rwhp and 500 rwt. Or there about.
Tranny wise I would keep it simple. Check out the TKO 500 and 600 kits that D&D has. The trannies themselves are both under $2K and are strong 5-speeds.
Driveshaft wise I recommend going with the Spydershaft(www.leonardracing.com). Built with Ford parts for your car. I`ve heard nothing but good from the Spydershaft users and the price is right.
I like Spec`s clutches and flywheels. I know a bunch of 5.0 guys that run nothing but Spec stuff and swear by it. Their alum. flywheel is about $350.00 and their Stage 2+ clutch kit is about $399.99 and is rated to 620 ft/lbs with a factory like pedal feel. Great for a daily driver with a power adder.
If you are definitaly going to go turbo or SC I would beef up the rear end a little. Change it over to a 31 spline set up. Moser has axles for $240.00 a set. Perfect time to upgrade the differential too. I`ve been looking hard at the Auburn Ected unit. I like this unit because it acts as a normal limited slip until you flip the switch and lock it. So you never have less than LS traction. Also uses a regular clutch pack instead of the cone clutches. Making it cheaper to rebuild. And it`s not expensive.
I would leave your 4.10 gears in until you get to the point of having traction/launch issues. Then you could step down to your 3.73`s. If you can hook up then more gear is always better.
It`s good to see you getting to the point that you can start making plans for the rebuild and improvements. Keep it up and good luck bro.
Eric
9/2/07, 06:05 PM
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I have seen some posts regarding wiring issues if I chose to go with an engine other than the 4.6, and some posts mentioning that it would be less expensive to simply build up the 4.6 engine and supercharge it rather than the more expensive turbocharging options. Thoughts on this? 
9/2/07, 09:39 PM
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What I would do is buy a s197 block, and swap over all salvagable existing parts. Swap out the pistons and rods for forged. That should not kill you cost wise at all.
I would not bother with the remote turbo, but thats me. If you are looking for a driver, go KB or whipple. I would not doubt that if you do a bit of the work or find a decent shop, you can get the shortblock rebuilt to forged specs and buy a whipple intercooled setup all for approx 7500.
I would stay with a stock drive shaft, no sense sticking the head into the guilitine twice imo.
If I were you I might be temped to go with a 8 bolt crank and a gt500 clutch and trans. But idk if it is worth the effort. A good clutch with a 5 speed would work
3.73's would be better with a DD blower, but that is jmho
I would not bother with the remote turbo, but thats me. If you are looking for a driver, go KB or whipple. I would not doubt that if you do a bit of the work or find a decent shop, you can get the shortblock rebuilt to forged specs and buy a whipple intercooled setup all for approx 7500.
I would stay with a stock drive shaft, no sense sticking the head into the guilitine twice imo.
If I were you I might be temped to go with a 8 bolt crank and a gt500 clutch and trans. But idk if it is worth the effort. A good clutch with a 5 speed would work
3.73's would be better with a DD blower, but that is jmho
9/3/07, 10:29 AM
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No offence to the above poster, but with a SC there is no way I would use a stock 2-piece drive shaft. They are a serious weak link when going with a power adder of any type.
Don`t be afraid to go with a good one piece aluminum drive shaft. When I say good, I mean from a very reputable supplier. I mentioned the spyder shaft above and believe it is a very solid piece. I`m putting one in my car. Check out their website and contact them if you want. Check around the forum for all the guys who are running spyder shafts. I don`t recall reading anything bad about them.
I do agree with classj about buying a new block and re-using what parts you can. Although I would still build a stroker. All the block would need is a .020 over bore and hone. The rotating assembly isn`t that much more expensive for a stroker over the stock type set up. A good set of forged pistons, forged rods and a cast 3.75" stroke crank will give you a 5.0 displacement with the .020 over bore. The rotating assembly should be about $1,500 to $2,200 depending on how fancy you want to get. With a forged crank it would be about $1K more.
I would stick with the factory tranny, but would probably source a new one just in case the old one has trouble down the road.
And I would still upgrade the rear end to 31 spline with new axles and differential. That would be bullet proof for a SC motor. The differential would be $400.00 to $500.00 and the axles shouldn`t cost more than $300.00 a pair.
Eric
Don`t be afraid to go with a good one piece aluminum drive shaft. When I say good, I mean from a very reputable supplier. I mentioned the spyder shaft above and believe it is a very solid piece. I`m putting one in my car. Check out their website and contact them if you want. Check around the forum for all the guys who are running spyder shafts. I don`t recall reading anything bad about them.
I do agree with classj about buying a new block and re-using what parts you can. Although I would still build a stroker. All the block would need is a .020 over bore and hone. The rotating assembly isn`t that much more expensive for a stroker over the stock type set up. A good set of forged pistons, forged rods and a cast 3.75" stroke crank will give you a 5.0 displacement with the .020 over bore. The rotating assembly should be about $1,500 to $2,200 depending on how fancy you want to get. With a forged crank it would be about $1K more.
I would stick with the factory tranny, but would probably source a new one just in case the old one has trouble down the road.
And I would still upgrade the rear end to 31 spline with new axles and differential. That would be bullet proof for a SC motor. The differential would be $400.00 to $500.00 and the axles shouldn`t cost more than $300.00 a pair.
Eric
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