Just installed lca relocation brackets, rear shock strut/brace. Went for test drive, seem to have snap oversteer mid corner, maybe suspension binding somewhere?

 

Not quite on point, but what made you want to do relocation for the suspension components?

 

to correct lca position after being lowered, it cured my infrequent wheel hop. Chassis mount point is above suspension point, even during accel

 

I think I just need to to torque everything down to correct spec vs impact wrench :-)

 

Snap oversteer if you lift throttle? Mid corner seems weird to have that as the car is weighted by that point and is steady state cornering. I could see it rotating quickly with a change in throttle though.

I've never had snap oversteer problems unless the tires are ice cold. Even then it is throttle related typically. I have a roll cage so the rear of the car is quite stiff as well

 

Hi dmichaels, thanks for explanation, I realize my definition of snap oversteer was wrong. It was definitely (on)throttle related, corner exit :-)


I softened the rear shocks and I'm waiting for my hotchkis k-member brace to arrive, I'm thinking it'll stiffen the front/slow the rear rotation. Do you think front or rear or both adjustable sway bars would improve steering response? I currently have 2011 mustang brembo package (supposedly stiffer front/rear sway bars (off gt500 I think)). I've read your other track related posts and value your "experienced" opinion.


Thanks again
Steven

 

I think you're heading in the right direction. Softer setting in the rear will make things less stiff, and on our SRA cars this should help put power down at corner exit and lessen on-throttle oversteer by more/quicker weight transfer to the outside rear tire. This of course is a function of the roll amount (sway bars), roll rate (springs + shocks) and the amount of available grip (tire).

I'm curious how you like the front sway bar. I saw in the other thread you got the Steeda competition piece. I was seriously considering going that direction myself, but after some research and advice from dmichaels I decided against it for now. I recently purchased Steeda Sport springs, adjustable HD Camber plates, and I'll be getting adjustable shocks/struts as well. I decided if I throw an adjustable front stay in the mix too there will be too many variables all at once. I want to dial in the camber settings the figure out where I want the compression/rebound to be first. I'm concerned about turn in with aggressive negative camber settings + oversteer prone behavior mid corner (which I plan to balance with throttle as much as possible), and this is where I think the front sway may help, but I can always add it later on once I get used to the handling with all the suspension mods.

Either way, I'm curious to hear what your noticed with the front sway, and how you like the handling.

 

Hey 5.0 monster, in interested to hear what dmicheals advised. What characteristic about the mustang since he tracks his cars?

 

Hey SGwick, here is a thread where he explains his experiences so far. Bottom of first page, but the whole thread has good discussion:

https://themustangsource.com/forums/...y-bars-538351/

 

Thanks boss, I'm leaving the rear sway for now then :-) pads/fluid/trans fluid & maybe ss lines if I have money left after registering :-)

 

That's the same conclusion I arrived at as well.

The SS lines you can get for ~$130 and that's good mod to firm up the pedal. And proper track pads on all 4 corners make a huge difference. I am able to catch much lighter cars in brake zones with my current setup.

I have springs, panhard, CC plates, SS clutch line and dampers waiting for install.

I'm a bit worried about losing turn-in urgency with a lot of negative camber, but we'll wait and see. I can stiffen or soften the front dampers, and if I'm still not happy go for Steeda competition adjustable front sway.

 

Just ordered motul 660s and RP synchromax :-) pads next month. Also registered today for April trackday :-)))))))

 

Niiiice. What pads are you going to go with?

 

Dtc60s fronts only, just cause I have hawks hps in front/rears already (save money short term:-))

I was dead set on carbotechs but maybe after I save and able to buy front and rear x12/x8 together.

Exciting times for sure and it's slightly warmer :-)

 

Those carbotechs are expensive . . . . and the big benefit of them is to get a set for the street plus a set for the track which adds up to somewhere north of $500

It's supposed to be in the 50's here in Mass. next week . . . . but the two local tracks are still closed!

 

I hear you guys. CT pads are pricey. I'll be dropping ~$220 on a new front set of XP10s soon. I think they are worth the money though. The first set of XP10s lasted me 5 track days, 2 of which I had stock rear pads. I like the bite (not too strong which helps prevent premature lockup before the weight transfers) very good grip once warmed up, and very good fade resistance and they don't chew up rotors. I'm yet to experience them fade. With my current brake setup I'm able to out-brake lighters cars, which feels awesome!

Been pondering going to XP12 up front, but after some discussions with Chad at Amped and the people at Carbotech as well I'm going to stay with XP10s. 12s have more initial bite which will likely overpower street tires before weight transfers, thus extending braking distances. With R compound or slicks XP12s or 20 are recommended.

 

**** you 5.0monster for making sense. I gotta rethink my future X12 vs X10s :-)

 

Haha, sorry. That would be a ~$240 mistake I wouldn't want to make and I'm sure you wouldn't either.

I am geeked for this season. 2 of the 4 days I had in mind are a bust already, but I;m focused in getting at least 4 track days this year though!

 

5.monster when you're not running xp10s up front what do your run for daily use? Any bed in problems?

 

Hey SGWick, good question. I opted for the simplest solution, and I just swap my street pads (OE pads made by Ferrodo).

It would be ideal to swap rotor and pad sets, but I'm too lazy, lol.

I've been going back and forth between XP10s and Ferrodo pads with no issues for the last 7 track days. Never had issues with vibration or uneven wear or too deep grooving of the rotors.

Going from XP10 to street pads is no big deal. The street pads scrub off the deposits in a few days usually.

Going from street pads to XP10s I re-perform the bed in procedure, which basically means a 5 or 6 0.4g stops (near stops to be exact) followed by 5-7 threshold braking stops from 60 to 5mph in rapid succession. You know you did it right when you hear hissing noises and see smoke coming from the brakes. Then I let it sit for 30min and that's it!

And as always remember to NOT set the parking brake.