What's the story on mounting these? Do the spindle mounting holes in the struts need to be enlarged/elongated by drilling to accomodate the extra negative camber settings?

http://www.steeda.com/products/steed..._adjusters.php

Shelby offers a similar set as well but I can't find ordering information anywhere online yet.

Has anyone installed these or a similar set yet and have experience/pics of the install to share?

I'm looking to put an extra -1.5 degrees of camber on the front wheels on-demand for when running R-compounds on the track.


Finally, are the spindle mounting bolts re-usable, or do they require replacement every time they are torqued or at some other interval?

Thanks

 

Bueller? Bueller?

23 views & no knowledgeable replies??? :-/

Does anyone have the installation instructions for those plates?

 

Nevermind, I found the install instructions on Steeda's website. They require an alignment each time the plates are changed, so I don't think these would be ideal for quick-changes of camber for a street/track car.

 

Sorry man, first even of the season is tomorrow and I've been scrambling to get the little things I've put off all winter done (new gauges, fixing exhaust rattle, etc...).

I ran the Steeda billet plates all last year to run -2.3 degrees (car is pretty much a weekend driver). This was my compromise for track, autocross and street use. They are a great product--wide range of adjustment and no chance of slipping like eccentric camber bolts. But...you are right, they are not a quick-change solution.

My setup now combines the Steeda plates with the Maximum Motorsports camber plates. What I did was install the MM plates full outboard (i.e. least amount of negative camber). Then I used the Steeda plates to dial in -1.5 degrees (started with -1.25, but decided on a hair more). That is my street setting.

For the track, I just dump the MM plates full inboard. They have 1.6 degrees of travel, which gives me a track camber of a hair over -3 degrees. This accomplishes two things--easy adjustment from street to track setting, and also better suspension geometry (as I understand it--this gets a bit deeper into suspension setup theory and I'm just starting to piece it all together). Basically, instead of getting all my negative camber at either the strut top or the hub, it splits the difference.

I'll see how it all works tomorrow. If I need less negative camber, it an easy adjustment w/ the MM plates. If I need more, I'll just swap the Steeda shims to get a higher baseline of negative camber (which will force me to run more negative on the street).

Hope this helps your decision.

 

Appreciate the input man!
That about doubles the cost of what I was considering doing, though hahaha...going to have to think a little harder on that now.

Let me know how you like the combined setup, sounds like it would be good for dual-purpose...

What are the torque specs on that stuff? Also, are there any one-time-use fasteners?

 

No problem. Heh, heh, yeah it does add to the cost. After today, I'd say it is absolutely worth it. Got to the track this morning, put the front end in the air, and 5 minutes later I'm at my track setting. -3.1 worked beautifully once I got my tire pressures dialed in.

I like the MM plates, but seeing as we really don't need any extra caster, the J&M camber plates are another option for about $100 less. Also, check Ebay for the Steeda billet adjusters--I lucked out and got mine for $150 from someone who decided not to install them.

 

Cool--I might end up doing that in the long run! Thanks for the advice.

 

Slaya:

The nuts on the MM Adjustable plates use Nylock Nuts. How often do you replace these? (if at all?)

FYI I've decided to duplicate your setup

 

You know, I hadn't thought about that. I figure I'll replace them when they start feeling a little loose. Probably will take a few years...

You'll love the setup. My brother (GTO) was just shaking his head at the track as he watched me adjust everything in a minute. Meanwhile, he can barely get beyond positive camber in his car!

 

Sweet! Just built some $6 miniramps out of 2x6s to help with jacking at the track.




The reason I ask about the nylocks is because they have nylocks on the swaybar endlinks, and mine weren't replaced when my FRPP kit was installed--they worked themselves loose enough to make the dreaded "front end clunk" after about 2500 miles. Got them replaced w/ new nylocks, and they've been tight and clunk-free for over 24,000 miles.

 

Is this what you wanted to see?

Sorry it is sideways. I can't edit Photobucket at work. I'll fix it later but you get the idea.

 

Fastduo--thanks for the follow-up, I got a good idea of what was required for the plates when I managed to find the instructions for the kit.

Ran slicks for the first time at the last track day, still need to clean them up and examine the wear pattern (no pyrometer yet) before I decide whether or not I want to spend $600 for the right camber plate setup (Steeda + MM).

Thanks to all for you continued advice in this forum--I hope this stuff will continue to circulate as other forum members start tracking their cars.

 

I ended up getting a set of Roush camber plates from their Track Pak suspension kit, buddy of mine ditched his for the Maximum Motorsports plates. I bought them off him for $50. These have only camber adjustment, not caster like the MM plates.

I installed the plates to the tops of my struts and adjusted them (eyeballed) to the center of the strut hole. At the alignment shop, my eyeball was good for -1.1* camber when the strut was "centered". Caster was found to be 0.7* which was right on-spec.
When we adjusted the Roush plates, we were able to achieve -2.0* camber without rubbing the strut tower edge. If we chose to contact the strut tower edge w/ the strut upper nut, we could probably get -2.2 on each side.

In the end, for primarily a daily-driver, this is good enough for me. I use the -1.0/-1.1 eyeball setting for the street, then eyeball to the -2.0 range for the track when I put on the R-Comps.

Edit: I am not using any of the clamp-style spindle-bolt adjusters.

 

God, I really hate you... I just finished the LAST event of the season yesterday...

06GT: A hot tip for you would be to call Maximum Motorsports and order one of their camber gauges... Piece of cake to measure camber (and caster), and the gauge is deadly accurate. It's also cheap.

 

Good call, I'll probably get one next season.