Undercarriage Rust
#22
Originally posted by 70MACH1OWNER+March 31, 2005, 10:57 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(70MACH1OWNER @ March 31, 2005, 10:57 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-02gtstangvert@March 30, 2005, 8:36 PM
When I bought my convertible, I was offered to have my car rust-proofed, thinking it might have been a good idea now, still might do it. Has anyone had this offered to you, or what is it that they do??
When I bought my convertible, I was offered to have my car rust-proofed, thinking it might have been a good idea now, still might do it. Has anyone had this offered to you, or what is it that they do??
02gtstangvert,
I also have a 05 Vert I got on 3/18/05. I had my car Ziebarted. They are a nationwide chain. I believe it is important to rustproof a Vert. Most Verts will rust more easily than a coupe because of the way water can run down your top and entire the back half of the car. It is not cheap. The cost was $699.00 for undercoating, soundproofing and apply paint protection. Might see if there is one in your area.
70Mach1Owner
[/b][/quote]
thanks for the help, found a store about 20 miles away, gonna have to check it out
ALSO, has anyone else had their car rust-proofed from Ziebart, and are you happy with it???
#23
I've used rustolem before going back to my new 76 Granada. I put it on the day the car arrived in my driveway. The underneath looked good til the day I sold it. Just hit it with the hose and it shines like new. As far as rustproofing the underneath, it is typically a sticky substance that does dry but it won't look like rustolium. It is not a paint but rather a coating and you really are just doing it for looks. Never heard of an axle rusting through and I promise the floor boards won't for more than 5 years and Ford warrenties that too. The way todays cars are built it would be years. So since its being done for looks I will go with rustolium.
#24
Guys,
IMHO it is an appearance issue only. The surface rust on the undercarriage will stop after a few months. If you are showing your car and using mirrors to display the undercarriage, that is one thing but if you are the only one that knows, don't bother. Correctly removing the rust, sealing the metal, and making it pretty is a lot of work and requires specialized products. My '67 is rust free and I show it. My '05 is not worth the trouble. Just spraying some paint on the parts will only result in a poor job of covering rust.
IMHO it is an appearance issue only. The surface rust on the undercarriage will stop after a few months. If you are showing your car and using mirrors to display the undercarriage, that is one thing but if you are the only one that knows, don't bother. Correctly removing the rust, sealing the metal, and making it pretty is a lot of work and requires specialized products. My '67 is rust free and I show it. My '05 is not worth the trouble. Just spraying some paint on the parts will only result in a poor job of covering rust.
#25
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Its actually not a bad idea to do this. It can help prevent a few things that can cause grief down the road. We've all heard the stones/rocks hitting the undercarriage, they can chip or scratch leaving bare metal....soon long term rust WILL set in. PPG has a very good chasis paint that we use on tractors and tractor trailers. It will stick to anything and is very durable. I've sprayed it on everything from tankers to cement trucks and it works great. I would consider this a must do for preventitive maintenance...its something you can do yourself,and is fairly cheap. Plus it looks great when its done....so really why not???
#28
Whomever asked about the Zeibart I can tell you I have had a few vehicles with it. It was great. I dont know if it is the same as back then...had it on vehicles in the 80's...but it was worth the $$. We had them and Rusty Jones up here in Maine years ago but I dont know if we have either now. I m going to look into it when my car arrives. I wont be driving her in the snow but our roads still get heavily salted and sanded so it takes well into summer to get em clean.
#29
Originally posted by BEACHBOY@April 2, 2005, 9:36 AM
I went with the Rustolium application because, I don't like the rust when I look under the car. Rustolium is not expensive and it takes car of my issue, for me.
I went with the Rustolium application because, I don't like the rust when I look under the car. Rustolium is not expensive and it takes car of my issue, for me.
#32
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Ford offers Undercoating in spray can form! I can get a Part# if needed.
kc
http://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/supplier/
Here is a link to the Motorcraft Chemical Catalog! The undercoating may or may not be in here but there is a lot of cool stuff in here!
enjoy!
http://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/...20Body%20Repair
This stuff looks interesting!
kc
http://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/supplier/
Here is a link to the Motorcraft Chemical Catalog! The undercoating may or may not be in here but there is a lot of cool stuff in here!
enjoy!
http://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/...20Body%20Repair
This stuff looks interesting!
#33
Yeah KC, the low temp stuff does look interesting. What is the cost? Can it be sprayed? Does it harden or stay oily? Will water wash it away after it is applied, it does say water based...Thanks Kev,
Dave
Dave
#34
Legacy TMS Member
PM-12-A is the 16 oz low-temp stuff, while the PM-13-A is the high-temp stuff.
The Motorcraft page claims it can be brushed or rolled on, as well as sprayed on. I'm not sure what type of finish it has, but it is stated to be 2.5 mil thick or should be 2.5 mil thick so it sounds like a paint-style finish. It isn't cheap and is priced about the same as POR-15.
Has anyone had experience with the PM-12 or PM-13 on NEW/FRESH metal surfaces?
I've been looking high and low for PROVEN TO WORK and DURABLE rustproofing to add extra protection on new/fresh metal surfaces. People have been saying the factory rustproofing, phosphate hot dip, and galvanized materials are "adequate" for the past 25 years. However I've seen my share of rusted out cars in this time period and I've seen how "well" galvanized steel withstands corrosion.
Has anyone else tried the Eastwood Heavy-Duty Anti-Rust (waxy film)?
The Motorcraft page claims it can be brushed or rolled on, as well as sprayed on. I'm not sure what type of finish it has, but it is stated to be 2.5 mil thick or should be 2.5 mil thick so it sounds like a paint-style finish. It isn't cheap and is priced about the same as POR-15.
Has anyone had experience with the PM-12 or PM-13 on NEW/FRESH metal surfaces?
I've been looking high and low for PROVEN TO WORK and DURABLE rustproofing to add extra protection on new/fresh metal surfaces. People have been saying the factory rustproofing, phosphate hot dip, and galvanized materials are "adequate" for the past 25 years. However I've seen my share of rusted out cars in this time period and I've seen how "well" galvanized steel withstands corrosion.
Has anyone else tried the Eastwood Heavy-Duty Anti-Rust (waxy film)?
#35
Team Mustang Source
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Well it's been almost 2 years since that original post, now here is the end result:
#36
Legacy TMS Member
The 07s have a black differential cover. My Vic came with an aluminum cover though.
The GT's exhaust manifolds start off bright silver but start to rust almost immediately, along with the steering pump.
The GT's exhaust manifolds start off bright silver but start to rust almost immediately, along with the steering pump.
#38