Hey All,
I have a question that has plagued me for years! How the heck do you get the wax (that has been inadvertantly applied) off of the ruberized components used on a lot of the external body componets of today's cars? I'm talking about the same material that's used on the 05+ mustang side mirrors. Anyone know? I've tried dish soap...no luck.

 

Mother's "Back To black"

 

Back to Black works for me too.
Attachment 15069

 

Thanks for the reply guys. Does Back to Black actually remove the wax or does it just cover it? I've ran into the issue where I've used other products like Armor All and STP where it looks good for a few days, but once worn off, the wax appears again.

 

Here's another alternative.....

 

You can scrub gently with a warm car wash solution and a toothbrush.

Best thing is to not get them in the first place... I use Back-to-Black on all of the trim before I clay or polish/wax.

 

Use a standard pencil eraser. It is an abrasive so go gentle or you'll leave marks. Then use the back to black or like product. I've been doing it that way for years with great results.

 

Black to Black has worked for me as well. It may take several applications, but it'll work

 

Thanks for the replies everyone. I bought some Back to Black last night. I tried it on a plastic guitar case that appears to be the same material. (It's too freakin' cold in Minnesota right now to go outside and do it). I only used one application, and it appears it's going to need at least two. But it DOES work so I'm pleased!

 

Personally, I would avoid any product which has any silicon in it. Check the ingredients and see if it has silicone in it. Do not use it if it does.

Instead of a standard eraser, the best solution is a pink eraser...comes right off...

 

There's nothing bad in Back-to-Black, so don't worry about that. Sometimes two coats is necessary, but you'll want to buff lightly after the last application with a cotton terry or microfiber towel.

As for the eraser trick, that's not necessarily a good idea for all surfaces, though it does work on many... problem is some surfaces can be marred by the eraser, or the finish can be worn even more (especially on some neglected or textured surfaces) so be sure or test in an inconspicuous area.

 

PEANUT BUTTER

 

B2B only hides the problem. PB will help break it up as well.........Whatever the case a little agitation will be necessary.....

 

Lighthandedness with the eraser is the key. As well as finishing with a gentle wash to the area with a mild solution of Meguiars or other popular car wash.

 

I want to know about this product. Anyone?

 

3M makes a good Wax & Adhesive Remover, but it's a tad pricey. Never heard of Wax Eraser.

Back-to-Black does the job for me, and I always have it around as my '98 SVT has some trim that's seen better days and using this once in a while helps it look pretty good.

 

WD-40 or Goo Gone.

 

heh,back to black did'nt really work for me,but it is a nice thing to put on after getting the wax off.Believe it or not,a rag wetted with windshield wiper fluid worked fine.lol,i am tired of buying stuff,so i tried it..

 

I use 303 Aerospace Protectant on black plastic parts or Klasse AIO. Either work very well to "richen" the shine and keep it black.

 

I use the Turtle Wax ICE liquid wax that I bought a few months ago. It isn't worth a @!#$ for waxing the car, but it works very nicely on the black plastic moldings and black mirror covers, so thats all I use it for. It also disolves the leftover wax spots I missed when I use the Meguiars for the paint.