Looking for advice on leather treatment
Looking for advice on leather treatment
My 2012 has the Charcoal black seats with the red lava inserts. The inserts are looking kinda faded and uneven in color. They are also kinda drying out and i can feel areas that are starting to crack. I'm going to be picking up some car care stuff today and wanted some advice on how to combat the above mentioned issues. To date I have never used any products on the interior except for windex on the glass. Thanks in advance.
I've used Lexol Leather Cleaner with the Lexol Leather conditioner on my seats with no issues. I have the 2010 saddle interior. Usually treat it twice a year with the conditioner.
Last edited by Turn3; Jun 27, 2013 at 10:33 AM.
The kind that sprays on?
This is your one-stop shop for car care stuff. Great products!
http://www.adamspolishes.com/
-I also love Zaino's Leather in a Bottle (works well without being slippery and makes your car smell brand new).
http://www.adamspolishes.com/
-I also love Zaino's Leather in a Bottle (works well without being slippery and makes your car smell brand new).
The kind that sprays on?
Lexol 1115 Leather pH Cleaner Spray 16.9 oz. (500mL) : Amazon.com : Automotive
Lexol 1115 Leather pH Cleaner Spray 16.9 oz. (500mL) : Amazon.com : Automotive
Yes thats it. You apply it to a rag or sponge and wipe it on.
My 2012 has the Charcoal black seats with the red lava inserts. The inserts are looking kinda faded and uneven in color. They are also kinda drying out and i can feel areas that are starting to crack. I'm going to be picking up some car care stuff today and wanted some advice on how to combat the above mentioned issues. To date I have never used any products on the interior except for windex on the glass. Thanks in advance.
Also, what kind of UV protection do you have on the glass? I put 3m Crystalline tint on ALL my windows (including the front windshield - 70% - can't even tell it's there). The reason I went with the 3m Crystalline is because of the high level of UV AND IR protection it offers. It's the only auto tint recommended by the Skin Cancer Foundation for it's protection against UV-A and UV-B rays (which will damage your leather).
I took deliver back in Feb 2012 and the car now only has 7800 miles. Not a lot of use for a car this old. I was more concerned with the color fade than the drying out. Its mostly the lava inserts that need attention. And its not cracking yet but I can get a feel for whats happening to its over all condition when I touch it. Its not as pliable and soft as when it was new. In New Jersey window tint is only legal on the rear side and back windows only. I'm not sure about the front windshield tinting laws. But I will look into that. Thanks for the advice. I ordered the Lexol and it should be here on Monday. I will let you guys know how it turns out along with before and after shots.
I took deliver back in Feb 2012 and the car now only has 7800 miles. Not a lot of use for a car this old. I was more concerned with the color fade than the drying out. Its mostly the lava inserts that need attention. And its not cracking yet but I can get a feel for whats happening to its over all condition when I touch it. Its not as pliable and soft as when it was new. In New Jersey window tint is only legal on the rear side and back windows only. I'm not sure about the front windshield tinting laws. But I will look into that. Thanks for the advice. I ordered the Lexol and it should be here on Monday. I will let you guys know how it turns out along with before and after shots.
As for the Lexol, please read the thread I linked (at least the few posts specific to Lexol. I was going to use that until I read the info, then changed my mind right quick:
Lexol is designed for aniline or semi-aniline leather without a urethane coating. This will cause further and faster deterioration of your leather seats let alone might have negative affects on the vinyl sections of your seat.
Unless you're talking about what to use in your previous generation King Ranch F-series truck with its uncoated leather, stick to a water-based sacrificial barrier for your leather which is not only breathable, but will actually help your leather last longer.
Leather Master Protection Cream is what I recommend and is the only thing I use. http://www.detailersdomain.com/Leath...eam_p_144.html
Unless you're talking about what to use in your previous generation King Ranch F-series truck with its uncoated leather, stick to a water-based sacrificial barrier for your leather which is not only breathable, but will actually help your leather last longer.
Leather Master Protection Cream is what I recommend and is the only thing I use. http://www.detailersdomain.com/Leath...eam_p_144.html
Last edited by ColSaulTigh; Jun 28, 2013 at 08:57 AM.
I did read the thread. I ordered the Lexol before your post.
Even if it not right for my car I guess I can still use it on my wife Honda mini van - also known as the juice box grave yard
What product did you go with?
Even if it not right for my car I guess I can still use it on my wife Honda mini van - also known as the juice box grave yard

What product did you go with?
I did see the post Saul (love the handle BTW Col Tigh!) referenced, but if you google the same "debate" there are those that contradict that point.
I'm trying to take a side in saying who is right or wrong, but my experience with Lexol has been a good one for the 3 years I've had my car.
I was at a car show a couple weeks ago and noticed some of the fairly new mustangs that had white leather stripes on the seats and they were already showing to be yellowed a bit or dirty. My car has not arrived yet and i can see that the white stripe may require extra attention to keep new looking. Any tips particurlary for the white leather to start me off right?
Good advice from The Col and Marc. Nothing to add except to make sure you clean your leather frequently. I don't mean deep cleaning with heavy duty cleaners, I mean light maintenance done weekly. Light dirt will get ground into the leather's top coating from your body moving around, which will accelerate cracking. Oils from your skin will build up and create that greasy sheen that you don't want. Vacuum and lightly wipe your leather seats every week with something like Einszett Cockpit Premium or Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer and you can minimize the "deep cleaning" regimen too. And learn to ease in and out of the driver's seat, to minimize the cracking on side bolsters.
Some people refuse to learn.
Folks, there's a difference between "popular opinion" and "scientific fact" when it comes to the care and maintenance of your leather. While there are a LOT of people who say "Lexol is great!", that's because it's sold a Walmart, and lots of people buy it there. If you look at that leather in 5 years, you'll see that it hasn't held up as well as if it was treated with a proper leather care kit.
Leather is like your skin. It has to BREATHE. If you cover it in oil then expose it to UV rays and heat (think suntanning), guess what happens....it dries out. Ever see someone who tans too much (like the "Tanning Mom") and say "what is she thinking - she looks horrible!"? Well, that's what's happening to your leather interior. Skin care experts don't tell you to slather your skin in OIL (Lexol), the tell you to use Oil-Free MOISTURIZER. The main difference between your skin and leather is that your skin can repair itself because it's being replenished with nourishment by your body. Leather doesn't have that benefit - it's stuck where it is.
Here is a write up on the main types of different leathers used in upholstery (home furnishings, but the idea carries over). You'll note that NONE of the leather types mentioned call for using an oil-based product. In fact, they specifically state "Never use saddle soap, furniture polish, oil, varnish, ammonia, or cleaning solvents."
As Marc and Mike will tell you, I tend to research stuff to death before I make a decision. Why? Because I can. I have the entire Worlds resources at my fingertips. When I read citation after citation after citation saying that you should NOT use an oil-based product on leather, guess what...I'm not going to use an oil-based product on my leather. Modern automotive leather upholstery use a completely different tanning processes and finishing system, utilizing advanced polymers and chemicals (urethane doesn’t require conditioning,or rejuvenation) and as a consequence they do not need to be treated with aftercare products containing oils or proteins.
I could go on, but I think I've said enough. Choose to use what you want, however, do your homework first. I have. I invested more than $35,000 in my car, why would I not want to spend an hour or two researching the best product to use in it's care and maintenance? Same thing goes for gasoline, engine oil, audio equipment, etc. etc. etc.
If someone wants to provide scientific evidence to the contrary, please feel free. Otherwise - 'nuf said.
Folks, there's a difference between "popular opinion" and "scientific fact" when it comes to the care and maintenance of your leather. While there are a LOT of people who say "Lexol is great!", that's because it's sold a Walmart, and lots of people buy it there. If you look at that leather in 5 years, you'll see that it hasn't held up as well as if it was treated with a proper leather care kit.
Leather is like your skin. It has to BREATHE. If you cover it in oil then expose it to UV rays and heat (think suntanning), guess what happens....it dries out. Ever see someone who tans too much (like the "Tanning Mom") and say "what is she thinking - she looks horrible!"? Well, that's what's happening to your leather interior. Skin care experts don't tell you to slather your skin in OIL (Lexol), the tell you to use Oil-Free MOISTURIZER. The main difference between your skin and leather is that your skin can repair itself because it's being replenished with nourishment by your body. Leather doesn't have that benefit - it's stuck where it is.
Here is a write up on the main types of different leathers used in upholstery (home furnishings, but the idea carries over). You'll note that NONE of the leather types mentioned call for using an oil-based product. In fact, they specifically state "Never use saddle soap, furniture polish, oil, varnish, ammonia, or cleaning solvents."
As Marc and Mike will tell you, I tend to research stuff to death before I make a decision. Why? Because I can. I have the entire Worlds resources at my fingertips. When I read citation after citation after citation saying that you should NOT use an oil-based product on leather, guess what...I'm not going to use an oil-based product on my leather. Modern automotive leather upholstery use a completely different tanning processes and finishing system, utilizing advanced polymers and chemicals (urethane doesn’t require conditioning,or rejuvenation) and as a consequence they do not need to be treated with aftercare products containing oils or proteins.
I could go on, but I think I've said enough. Choose to use what you want, however, do your homework first. I have. I invested more than $35,000 in my car, why would I not want to spend an hour or two researching the best product to use in it's care and maintenance? Same thing goes for gasoline, engine oil, audio equipment, etc. etc. etc.
If someone wants to provide scientific evidence to the contrary, please feel free. Otherwise - 'nuf said.
Last edited by ColSaulTigh; Jul 4, 2013 at 06:46 AM.



