Wanted to post pics and share my install experience with the latest mod... I highly recommend. Primary reason for install was to protect front-end from rock/debris paint damage. In just a few months after Pony purchase, I already had 3 hood paint chips (down to the aluminum).... so I turned to X-Pel and their 3M film. I have to tell you, this is NOT a 'do it yourself' install. You must find a professional installer. I turned to my graphics installer (Emil, Just Tint), who is an authorized X-Pel installer... A+ work . This .008 mil clear Urethane plastic is tricky stuff to work with (and I was just watching!). The X-Pel kit comes in pieces.. I ordered the "Hood, Fender, Mirror Kit", "Front Bumper Kit", and "Headlamp, Signal Lamp, and Fog Lamp Kit". My installer custom made the chin spoiler piece. Check the pics... hard to even tell it's on there... (mirrors, headlamps, foglamps, signals, bumper, chin spoiler, and even door handle cups installed).

 

One of the first things I did. Worth every penny.

 

Thats awsome...Cant even see...I am Worried about that happening to my lower chin on my GT/CS. How long did it take to install? And you dont think a car owner could install the 3M film?

 

The Chin spoiler will take the most abuse. I'd say it took approximately 6-8 hrs to do the complete install. Keep in mind, this included the time it took my installer to custom make the chin spoiler piece (layup template, cut pattern, install). If I had to put pieces in order (easiest to hardest), it would be:

1) headlamps, foglamps, signal lamps
2) mirrors
3) door handle cups
4) hood and fender
5) chin spoiler
6) front bumper (without a doubt, the toughest. Many angles/challenging surfaces to adhere).

IMO, you could probably do #1 - 3 yourself. #4-6 requires stretching, spraying, squeegee'ng all at the same time... timing and adhesion are critical. I'm convinced you'd be best served if you contracted with a certified installer for these (as the pieces are not cheap). If you plan on keeping your 'stang for 5+ years, this is a great investment and a mod you can't do without.

 

I have had my film on ever since I bought mine in 2004. I highly recommend it as well, and I also agree with DoctorQ. DO NOT DO THIS YOURSELF.

The process for me was, film was cut for the mustang
pattern. The installer cleans the area, and then has to stretch the film to fit, and remove air and stretch more and adjust here and there. It is tedious.

After almost 3 years with the stuff, I can say, all you need to do is wax it, and that keeps the film looking new and almost invisible.

Here's the thing though, you need to get this stuff when you first get your car!!!!

 

Around how much does this protective film cost? How much did it also cost to install on top of the price of the Film?

 

Is there any lasting effect on the paint? Like if you strip it off two years later, will you see a difference in the paint like with vinyl stripes?

 

The film is UV neutral so it shouldn't leave any trace of it's presence when it comes off. For my install (I had a pro do it too before I took delivery) was about $800cdn and that was everything but the lights and the side mirrors. I have it running down the rockers and on the splash areas of the front and rear bumpers (recommend this if you have to drive on an alley or anywhere that gravel is used for sanding roads.

 

I have used the Xpel clear bra on my last several cars without any problem and it was replaced easily when needed. The following is a list of vehicles.
2001 Saab - 5 NE winters
2002 Lexus - 3 NE winters (traded in)
2003 Thunderbird - not driven in winter
2005 Thunderbird - not driven in winter
2006 Lexus - 2 NE winters
2007 Saleen / PJ 302 not driven in winter

I have never had a paint problem with any color. The stuff is great and protects the front-end, outside mirrors, on the wheelwells behind the tires. On the Birds it protects the sail area when the hardtop is on from rubbing. It nice to have invisible protection.

 

Bruce, any problems driving those cars outside RI. Like on a long drive

 

Nope, drove the Inca Bird to the Ford Nationals in Carlsile, PA last June (about 900 miles round trip). I wouldn't go anywhere without my clear bra on the cars---- Oh wait I can't anyway.

..........and some of them are daily drivers which travel all winter up to Maine, etc. without issues.

 

I have been kicking this around for some time. I have a few small chips in my hood that I am getting taken care of soon. After that has been done, and the paint has had time to adhere, I may opt for this treatment. The chin spoiler is the one item I have that is driving me to drink (and I don't even drink). It gets chipped up so easily. Have been using the cheap Painters Tape method (and it works well), but after my body shop touches up the spots I need done, I may invest in this stuff for the hood, bumper and get a piece for the chin spoiler made up. My only problem is that there is no place around me that is listed as a "good" installer on X-Pel's website.

DocQ, one question if I may ask? How long after you had the chips on your hood fixed and painted, did you wait to have the X-Pel installed? I know you should wait some time for the paint to properly adhere. Just wanted to get an idea.

 

Question-- how far up the hood and fenders does the film cover?

 

I fixed (relative term) the chips myself using a paint pen and a clear-coat pen (these are great touch-up tools). The chips were down to the aluminum, so I had to put multi-layers of paint on (let each one dry ~ 3 days). Until the chip was just about even with the rest of the surface. Then used the clearcoat pen. I should have let the paint cure longer (more than 3 days) between final coat and clearcoat.. but it turned out OK. I then let the clearcoat cure for about 30 days before applying clear bra.

 

There are a few vendors out there (X-Pel, InvisibleMask, etc). My Kit cost (Hood/Fender/Mirror; Bumper; Headlamps/Foglamps/Signal Lamps/Door cups) $589. Since I bought this through my installer, he installed it for basically $0 additional (since he got a price break on the kits). My "out-the-door" price was $600. Keep in mind this included him custom-making a piece for my chin spoiler out of raw 3M film he had. Anyone in NorCal, I HIGHLY recommend Emil @ JustTint. He also installed my BSM dual 10" stripes w/ 1/2" pinstripes.. bumper to bumper.. and custom rocker panel decal for only $150.

 

At the center point of hood, it covers 18" (and also covers the front of hood where it turns down @ 90 degrees). At the start of fender (next to hood), it covers 9". If you look closely at the last pic at the start of this thread, you can barely make out the line.

 

how do these work with waxing the car and keeping them clean?

 

The clear bra is the first mod for my mustang as soon as I took it off the dealers lot. It took the tech about 5 hours to do the hood, front fender, fender sides, headlights and signal lights. Kit covers the first 18 inches on the hood. There is a slight line left on the hood where the film stops but if you apply a few applications of Meguair's Tech Wax the line is barely noticeable unless you point it out to someone. The use of a Meguair's Microfiber cloth ensures that there is no wax residue buildup behind the film line. As mentioned by everyone else this was a good investment to protect the paint.

 

My installer recommended Aerospace 303 for the vinyl stripes... and Meguiar's "Tech Wax" for the for clear bra (as well as the painted surfaces). The Tech Wax (which I think is called "NXT") helps created a tough polymer bond for xtreme UV protection... so just wax your clear bra as you would for your paint. For darker colored cars, you may get a visible wax buildup on the clear bra edges... simply put a cotton T-shirt over a finger, and rub down the edge to remove.

 

DoctorQ, I would think it's a bit hard to detect anything on your baby from that range...take some photos at 4-5 feet away and post them...I know that I that the protective film Nissan puts on their 350Zs from the factory are very noticeable (even at 10 feet)...