General Mustang Chat Not Model Year Specific

Ponies on The Run!

Old Sep 15, 2008 | 02:30 PM
  #23501  
Robbieg's Avatar
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From: Central FL
Originally Posted by TacoBill
No offense to the rusty manifold guys, right?
Ha, I was so affended I was just trying to figure out a way to paint mine GO

For you guys with aftermarket exhaust I have a question. I've had a Pypes O/R h pipe with factory mufflers for a while now ( both before and after the S/C ) and I just installed Pypes Violators last week and now it feels like I lost some torque/power. Is it just my imagination or is it possible that the loss in back pressure is magnified with the S/C and I am actually losing performance?
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 02:32 PM
  #23502  
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From: Medina county, OH
A loss in back pressure on a supercharged application is not a bad thing. Plus, just changing your mufflers isn't going to cause any loss anyway. That's my experience anyway.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 02:48 PM
  #23503  
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From: Central FL
Originally Posted by tom281
A loss in back pressure on a supercharged application is not a bad thing. Plus, just changing your mufflers isn't going to cause any loss anyway. That's my experience anyway.
Must just be my imagination then, that makes me happy cause I really didnt want to change them again.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 02:50 PM
  #23504  
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From: SoCal
Sorry Robbie I can't answer your question. If anything my exhaust sounds less aggressive after the blower install, why I dunno


Leo, $$130. Considering I got a couple different quotes all over 200 and up to 250.... it's a bargain.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 03:43 PM
  #23505  
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From: San Diego
Originally Posted by habu
Sorry Robbie I can't answer your question. If anything my exhaust sounds less aggressive after the blower install, why I dunno


Leo, $$130. Considering I got a couple different quotes all over 200 and up to 250.... it's a bargain.
Hmmm... I wonder why the $10 price increase. He did mine for $120. Maybe he realized it was more work than he'd thought. Either way that's a good deal to not have to mess with bleeding the brakes or electrical stuff that you seem to hate.

Robbie-Did you get your Langka kit yet?

Last edited by LEO_06GT; Sep 15, 2008 at 03:45 PM.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 03:51 PM
  #23506  
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From: Central FL
Originally Posted by LEO_06GT
Robbie-Did you get your Langka kit yet?
Yeah, it came on friday but the touch up paint just showed up this afternoon so I am playing with it now. The scratch was so deep I am on my 4th coat of paint now to try and even up the scratch with the surface. As the paint dries it kind of shrinks into the scratch so you have to keep building it up.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 03:58 PM
  #23507  
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From: San Diego
Originally Posted by Robbieg
Yeah, it came on friday but the touch up paint just showed up this afternoon so I am playing with it now. The scratch was so deep I am on my 4th coat of paint now to try and even up the scratch with the surface. As the paint dries it kind of shrinks into the scratch so you have to keep building it up.
Are you using the pen or the brush? Make sure to take a post a pic of the final outcome.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 04:12 PM
  #23508  
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From: SoCal
Price Increate Still it's 100 bucks cheaper than the nearest shop and it's less I have to worry about so I'm good.

Originally Posted by LEO_06GT
Are you using the pen or the brush? Make sure to take a post a pic of the final outcome.
definitely. I need to do a touch up too and would like to see how they turn out.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 04:22 PM
  #23509  
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From: That town you drive through to get to Myrtle Beach
ive heard that the langka is pretty good, so im interested to see the outcome

this is going to be a completely noob question, but how do you bleed the brakes?
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 04:25 PM
  #23510  
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From: Central FL
Originally Posted by LEO_06GT
Are you using the pen or the brush? Make sure to take a post a pic of the final outcome.
I actually thought I was getting the bottle & brush like you would get at the dealer but I ordered pen and didn't realize it. As it turns out the pen seams to work pretty good so I'm glad I'm an idiot and ordered the wrong one. It has a wide tip like a highlighter not like a ball point pen. I got it from expresspaint.com. I got spray paint from them before and was very happy with the match and the pen seems to be just as good a match. I'll post pics as soon s I'm done.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 04:26 PM
  #23511  
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From: Central FL
Originally Posted by StangMahn
this is going to be a completely noob question, but how do you bleed the brakes?
Very carfully, make sure you have plenty of banaids on hand
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 04:31 PM
  #23512  
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by tom281
Plus, just changing your mufflers isn't going to cause any loss anyway. That's my experience anyway.
Louder = more power
Everyone knows that!



Originally Posted by StangMahn
this is going to be a completely noob question, but how do you bleed the brakes?
By shooting it.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 04:59 PM
  #23513  
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From: SoCal
Looks like there is a bunch of smart-azzes on board today...

it's pretty simple and unless you use the earl's power bleeder or whatever it's called you need two people.
Person one is in the driver's seat(engine off) and pumps the brakes three times and HOLDS the brake pedal
1-2-3-HOLD
Starting at the farthest corner from the master cylinder, so passenger rear,

1) 1-2-3-HOLD the brake pedal
2) Crack open the bleeder valve and let the brake fluid come out(The pedal inside the car will drop to the floor, the person inside continues to HOLD the pedal).
3) Tighten the bleeder valve.
3a) Check brake fluid DO NOT let it empty, replace cap.
4) Once the bleeder valve is tightened the pedal can be released.
5) Repeat steps 1-4 until the fluid is consistently coming out with no air, you'll know it when you see it.
6) Move to the next wheel, Drivers side rear and repeat steps 1-5
7) Move to the passenger side front wheel repeat steps 1-5
8) Move to the driver side front wheel



It is critical that the person on the brakes DOES NOT LET UP ON THE BRAKE PEDAL until the bleeder valve is tightened. If it happens you introduce air into the system, which is what you're trying to get rid of and will double the work.

PITA but it's pretty simple.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 05:10 PM
  #23514  
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From: Torrance, CA
Goes a lot quicker than it sounds
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 05:25 PM
  #23515  
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by habu
it's pretty simple and unless you use the earl's power bleeder or whatever it's called you need two people.
Brian, back it up with some step-by-step tutorial photos and I'll make you famous.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 05:34 PM
  #23516  
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From: Central Florida
Originally Posted by TacoBill
No offense to the rusty manifold guys, right?
When you have a turbo or supercharger, people usually don't look past those!
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 05:42 PM
  #23517  
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From: Central FL
OK Leo and anyone else interested in the Langka scratch remover. I posted the results up on the original scratch thread. Take a look and see what you thing of my first try. I 'm pretty happy with the results considering how bad the scratch was.

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showth...54#post5634654
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 06:34 PM
  #23518  
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From: That town you drive through to get to Myrtle Beach
looks good
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 06:36 PM
  #23519  
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Hey David and POTR crew,

Getcha popcorn ready!!!!
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 07:04 PM
  #23520  
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From: Central FL
Originally Posted by StangMahn
this is going to be a completely noob question, but how do you bleed the brakes?
Originally Posted by habu
Looks like there is a bunch of smart-azzes on board today...

it's pretty simple and unless you use the earl's power bleeder or whatever it's called you need two people.
Person one is in the driver's seat(engine off) and pumps the brakes three times and HOLDS the brake pedal
1-2-3-HOLD
Starting at the farthest corner from the master cylinder, so passenger rear,

1) 1-2-3-HOLD the brake pedal
2) Crack open the bleeder valve and let the brake fluid come out(The pedal inside the car will drop to the floor, the person inside continues to HOLD the pedal).
3) Tighten the bleeder valve.
3a) Check brake fluid DO NOT let it empty, replace cap.
4) Once the bleeder valve is tightened the pedal can be released.
5) Repeat steps 1-4 until the fluid is consistently coming out with no air, you'll know it when you see it.
6) Move to the next wheel, Drivers side rear and repeat steps 1-5
7) Move to the passenger side front wheel repeat steps 1-5
8) Move to the driver side front wheel



It is critical that the person on the brakes DOES NOT LET UP ON THE BRAKE PEDAL until the bleeder valve is tightened. If it happens you introduce air into the system, which is what you're trying to get rid of and will double the work.

PITA but it's pretty simple.
I would add one thing to make it a little easier especially for your first time. Pick up some clear hose at your local store that fits on the bleeder nipple. Run the hose into a clear glass. Get enough hose so you can set the glass on the ground and not have to hold it. As your bleeding the brake fluid will go into the glass and with the hose in the fluid you will easily be able to see the air bubbles in the system. Use a wrench instead of a socket so you can just leave the hose on and turn the bleeder valve at the same time. When it stops bubbling you know your good!
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