Keep having to get car jumped???
10/24/19, 02:41 PM
#1
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Join Date: October 24, 2019
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Keep having to get car jumped???
So was told to replace my fuel rail sensor, did that and 2 days later had to start jumping again. Then took it to a shop and he told me to clean the ERG sensor and tube. Can't get the **** bolts off the tube? Any recommendations? Tried soaking in bolt remover and nothing
10/25/19, 12:54 AM
#2
Legacy TMS Member
Year, make, model, submodel of car please?
But beyond that, if you just want something to remove that bolt... Go get thee some Liquid Wrench Penetrant. Blast that on them bolts, wait an hour, blast it again, wait an hour, blast it again, wait overnight, bust it off.
Worked for me on the ONE DANG EXHAUST NUT what was stopping me from getting my clutch done. Everything, and I mean everything, short of flames didn't work. BIG dang breaker and a cheater... nope. PB Blaster... nuh uh. Hammer time while blastered... nosir. I even bought a *hell* of an impact and it didn't work either... until AFTER I did the Liquid Wrench Penetrant. Zipped right the HECK off after I let THAT soak overnight. Believer. Didn't even pause when doing the 24 year old exhaust bolts on my motorcycle. Applied LWP, waited overnight, next morning, all of them come of with handtools. So proud of that stuff. I hope it works for you in this case.
If that doesn't work, you'll need a torch to heat the bolts up a little and then hit them.
If THAT doesn't work... drill press. Well, ok, not drill press, but for sure you're going to have to get creative if not even heat from a torch will get them out. You may need to grind/cut off the bolt heads and drill/extract the bolts out...
...or maybe there's another solution where the year, make, model, submodel would come in and help us out...
Hope that helps, let us know, and welcome to the forums!
/Not a sponsor, but I'm open to the idea, LW...
But beyond that, if you just want something to remove that bolt... Go get thee some Liquid Wrench Penetrant. Blast that on them bolts, wait an hour, blast it again, wait an hour, blast it again, wait overnight, bust it off.
Worked for me on the ONE DANG EXHAUST NUT what was stopping me from getting my clutch done. Everything, and I mean everything, short of flames didn't work. BIG dang breaker and a cheater... nope. PB Blaster... nuh uh. Hammer time while blastered... nosir. I even bought a *hell* of an impact and it didn't work either... until AFTER I did the Liquid Wrench Penetrant. Zipped right the HECK off after I let THAT soak overnight. Believer. Didn't even pause when doing the 24 year old exhaust bolts on my motorcycle. Applied LWP, waited overnight, next morning, all of them come of with handtools. So proud of that stuff. I hope it works for you in this case.
If that doesn't work, you'll need a torch to heat the bolts up a little and then hit them.
If THAT doesn't work... drill press. Well, ok, not drill press, but for sure you're going to have to get creative if not even heat from a torch will get them out. You may need to grind/cut off the bolt heads and drill/extract the bolts out...
...or maybe there's another solution where the year, make, model, submodel would come in and help us out...
Hope that helps, let us know, and welcome to the forums!
/Not a sponsor, but I'm open to the idea, LW...
Last edited by houtex; 10/25/19 at 12:56 AM.
11/3/19, 09:18 AM
#4
Member
It would definitely be great for this site to add a Signature feature that allows each member to post the year,make and model of their vehicle plus any modifications it has done. It would be even better if a signature was made a requirement,like your screenname and password is,in order for you to register & become a member.That way,you'd have to do it automatically if you want to become a member and start threads & post. Every members signature thats being automatically listed at the bottom of their thread/post,would prevent other members from having to ask or guess which vehicle is being discussed and seeing as how some members will oftentimes post a thread then not return back for several days,means it will take even longer for the member needing help to actually get that help,especially if
were posting answers for the wrong vehicle or not posting any answers at all because of us waiting for a vehicle info response.On some sites that do have the Signature feature, some members still fail to create one & on the sites that do not have the feature in place,some members still fail to list their info in the subject box or at the beginning of their post.This wouldn't happen if a signature was required rite off the bat.I oftentimes find myself having to run through that members profile page or threads and posts they've added,trying to locate their vehicle info so I can give them an accurate answer.
So if a site has a Signature feature,it
should be mandatory that every member has to add a signature to their profile & if a site doesn't have a Signature feature,it should be mandatory for every member thats starting a thread or posting in a thread,to add their info in the subject box or at the very beginning of their thread or post.
Now on to the problems at hand,which I'll begin in my next post.
Thanks for reading.
were posting answers for the wrong vehicle or not posting any answers at all because of us waiting for a vehicle info response.On some sites that do have the Signature feature, some members still fail to create one & on the sites that do not have the feature in place,some members still fail to list their info in the subject box or at the beginning of their post.This wouldn't happen if a signature was required rite off the bat.I oftentimes find myself having to run through that members profile page or threads and posts they've added,trying to locate their vehicle info so I can give them an accurate answer.
So if a site has a Signature feature,it
should be mandatory that every member has to add a signature to their profile & if a site doesn't have a Signature feature,it should be mandatory for every member thats starting a thread or posting in a thread,to add their info in the subject box or at the very beginning of their thread or post.
Now on to the problems at hand,which I'll begin in my next post.
Thanks for reading.
Last edited by wbrockstar; 11/3/19 at 06:51 PM.
11/3/19, 10:42 AM
#5
Member
If the vehicle were discussing has a egr pipe,it would have to be either a 94-95 5.0 Mustang or a 94-98 3.8 Mustang,unless you (the OP) are referring to the crossover pipe thats bolted to the rear of both heads, which is not part of the egr system, but rather the thermactor (smog) system?? This pipe is on the 94-95,as well as the 86-93 models.
If the pipe is indeed an actual egr pipe & not a thermactor pipe,it being clogged has absolutely no affect on the battery getting drained.Your thread also makes it sound as if a battery drain issue was already present prior to the fuel rail sensor replacement & if so,you got the battery issue straightened out first,then the shop replaced the sensor,then two days later the battery issue popped back up again.Is that the jist of it or am I mistaken?? By fuel rail sensor,do you mean the fuel pressur regulator
If yes,was the fpr leaking & causing a hard start issue,which was then triggering you to constantly crank the engine over in an attempt to get it started and this condition was draining the battery dead from the constant need to turn the starter over?? If this was the case,and for future reference if it happens again, just floor the gas pedal during crank mode & after a few seconds,the excess fuel will be cleared out and the engine will begin to speed up indicating its trying to start,so when it does this just release the pedal while continuing to crank and the engine will usually fire up.If this wasnt what was causing your battery to get drained,what did you do the first go around to rid the battery drain issue??
Going back to the egr system.The only way the egr system could be involved with a battery drain issue would be if the evr solenoid or evp sensor wiring had somehow got damaged,causing a short to ground or power.
The evr has:
{1} 12v wire (key in run)
{1} ground wire (ecu controlled)
The evp has:
{1} 5v wire (supply)
{1} signal wire
{1} signal return wire (ground)
You could disconnect the harness from the ECU and the EVR and EVP sensor then use a multimeter & a wiring diagram for your vehicle to test each wire between the sensors harness plug and ecu harness plug.
With the meter scale on ohms,touch one meter lead to the wire at the evr harness plug & touch the other meter lead to the same wire at the ecu harness plug and take a reading
Any value above 1ohm indicates a possible open wire.Any value below 1ohm indicates a good wire.A value of 0 indicates a possible shorted wire.As far as getting the egr pipe nut loose,lots of Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster is in order.Some have had great success using a crows foot wrench while others had got it with a normal open end wrench with a pipe over the opposite end (for leverage) or a pipe wrench.If you can get the nut to move even the slightest bit,use the back n forth loosen-tighten-loosen approach, which can break the rust loose slowly until enough of it is clear,then the nut will usually free up then.
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/#Diagrams
If the pipe is indeed an actual egr pipe & not a thermactor pipe,it being clogged has absolutely no affect on the battery getting drained.Your thread also makes it sound as if a battery drain issue was already present prior to the fuel rail sensor replacement & if so,you got the battery issue straightened out first,then the shop replaced the sensor,then two days later the battery issue popped back up again.Is that the jist of it or am I mistaken?? By fuel rail sensor,do you mean the fuel pressur regulator
If yes,was the fpr leaking & causing a hard start issue,which was then triggering you to constantly crank the engine over in an attempt to get it started and this condition was draining the battery dead from the constant need to turn the starter over?? If this was the case,and for future reference if it happens again, just floor the gas pedal during crank mode & after a few seconds,the excess fuel will be cleared out and the engine will begin to speed up indicating its trying to start,so when it does this just release the pedal while continuing to crank and the engine will usually fire up.If this wasnt what was causing your battery to get drained,what did you do the first go around to rid the battery drain issue??
Going back to the egr system.The only way the egr system could be involved with a battery drain issue would be if the evr solenoid or evp sensor wiring had somehow got damaged,causing a short to ground or power.
The evr has:
{1} 12v wire (key in run)
{1} ground wire (ecu controlled)
The evp has:
{1} 5v wire (supply)
{1} signal wire
{1} signal return wire (ground)
You could disconnect the harness from the ECU and the EVR and EVP sensor then use a multimeter & a wiring diagram for your vehicle to test each wire between the sensors harness plug and ecu harness plug.
With the meter scale on ohms,touch one meter lead to the wire at the evr harness plug & touch the other meter lead to the same wire at the ecu harness plug and take a reading
Any value above 1ohm indicates a possible open wire.Any value below 1ohm indicates a good wire.A value of 0 indicates a possible shorted wire.As far as getting the egr pipe nut loose,lots of Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster is in order.Some have had great success using a crows foot wrench while others had got it with a normal open end wrench with a pipe over the opposite end (for leverage) or a pipe wrench.If you can get the nut to move even the slightest bit,use the back n forth loosen-tighten-loosen approach, which can break the rust loose slowly until enough of it is clear,then the nut will usually free up then.
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/#Diagrams
Last edited by wbrockstar; 11/3/19 at 07:16 PM.
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