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Today is the first time in Awesome's life she's ever been towed. Hadda haver her flatbedded to my shop. Yay. Been over 10 years since I've had to have a car towed...
Anyway, check it:
[What is it? (it's a..) WHAT is it?! (it's a...) WHAT IS IT?!?!! (...)]
This is the offending bit that caused Awesome to not work right anymore. Guess what it is and... well, you'll have guessed it correctly, and isn't that nifty?
Good luck to you all, may the odds ever be in your favor!
Don't know the real name of it, but I bet it's the end of the pushrod for the clutch master cylinder. I've heard of those being cheap plastic and breaking
Don't know the real name of it, but I bet it's the end of the pushrod for the clutch master cylinder. I've heard of those being cheap plastic and breaking
Originally Posted by adrenalin
Going with Cavero on this one. That looks too small to be a tie rod end.
I agree as well. Without a real scale it is hard to determine the size, but based on the grain of the concrete, I'd say it is too small to be a suspension part.
Don't know the real name of it, but I bet it's the end of the pushrod for the clutch master cylinder. I've heard of those being cheap plastic and breaking
Ding ding ding!
Yep, yesterday afternoon... *POW* clatter... "what the heck...? Hey... my clutch doesn't work..."
Look in my floorboard, and there they are, the two pieces. Aw. I knew what it was right away too... got out, peered under... yep. Dangit.
Awesome's first ever tow. Poor girl. Been something like 12 years since I had to have a car towed... last time was when the ball joint blew apart on the '97 HoopTBird. Not a bad record, I think.
She's in the shop, as I *could* do it... but I ain't gunna. There was also some weeping after the event inside, so I'm guessin' the master cylinder probably should be replaced anyway. Maybe they designed this clevis (or whatever you call it) to fail in plenty of time to get the thing replaced...
...nah.
Anyway, interesting event, for sure. She'll be back on the road Soon(tm).
The original clutch master cylinder had 137K on it. Now, for the past few weeks... maybe a couple of months... I've been noticing it's getting harder and harder to find gears.
Then this happens.
I get the car back today, and go for a test drive.
Wow. I thought the syncrhos were going out, but nope, it was this thing. Transmission is still a notchy as heck 3650, but at least I can get it in the gears now.
Before you ask, yes, I'd had the fluid swapped, and did the pumping, and all that. I'm just guessing this thing was gonna quit on me soon enough after 10 years/137K.
So if it feels like your synchros are going out, or the car is hard to get into gear (manual, of course), then maybe, just maybe, it's this dang thing.
The original clutch master cylinder had 137K on it. Now, for the past few weeks... maybe a couple of months... I've been noticing it's getting harder and harder to find gears.
Then this happens.
I get the car back today, and go for a test drive.
Wow. I thought the syncrhos were going out, but nope, it was this thing. Transmission is still a notchy as heck 3650, but at least I can get it in the gears now.
Before you ask, yes, I'd had the fluid swapped, and did the pumping, and all that. I'm just guessing this thing was gonna quit on me soon enough after 10 years/137K.
So if it feels like your synchros are going out, or the car is hard to get into gear (manual, of course), then maybe, just maybe, it's this dang thing.
Woulda never sold me on that.
Originally Posted by adrenalin
Good to know because lately I have been noticing that finding the gears is not as smooth as it use to be. Guess I'd better take a good look at mine.
Wow, I have been noticing the same exact thing with mine on shifting. Last time I was under there I even adjusted my shifter a little longer, and swapped out the bushings for the MGW Thinking that might help. Nope
Even was getting ready to see if a fluid swap would help.
I also get this weird buzzy/vibration/rattle from the trans area. Hard to explain
I am also to low to tow without screwing something up.
Houtex, when you get your invoice, toss us a part # of what they had to replace. Id like to do it now before its too late. And if anyone knows whats involved in replacing it.
Part number exactly is 9R3Z-7A543-A, for the Genuine Ford Motorcraft one, and it's about $100-$125. You can find cheaper knock offs, around 50 and up, but... that'd be your call. You can probably also get that 'real deal' one for cheaper, and I'll let ya in on a secret... working for a dealership, even one that's not Ford, is kinda nifty. shhhh...
Basically, and the mechanic who did the work verified it, there's 6 bolts/nuts to remove, and the entire brake/clutch pedal assembly gets to move about. No need to do the brakes, just need to be able to shove the thing about some. This is the best method because of the parametrics of the two pieces, the MC and the clutch pedal pin. It's near improbable to get the 'hoop' off and on the pedal pin otherwise, there's not enough play, and really, do you *want* to bend or tear up your new master cylinder? No? Then take the 6 nuts and bolts out and do it 'right.'
You remove the old one, stick the new one in, bolt it all back up and get the hoses done, and then pump the clutch about 50 times or so. The thing is supposedly 'self bleeding', so that's how you do it. Or so I'm told/been reading... I know others out there have their opinions on that being not quite right, but it seemed to work, I guess...
I guess they did the 50 times or until there was clutch, but when I first got in it, I did my own 50 pumps on the clutch pedal to be absolutely sure it was ready... and it's been fantastic since. The gears are easily found and selected, way better than grinding here and there and thinking 'dang syncrhos' when it wasn't...
That's perfect info! Thanks! So its the entire clutch master cylinder you actually have to replace for that little stupid part eh.
I have a dealer that is a supplier for us and can get them usually at or near dealer cost, so that's not an issue.
I have probably talked to your service advisors before, lol.
All data only calls for .9, not too bad. They add a step to take off 2 bolts holding the AC accumulator and move it aside. Looks like it makes it easier to get the the hydrolic line clip maybe.
Removal and Installation
Using a suitable suction gun, partially drain the brake and clutch reservoir. Drain it to just below the clutch reservoir nipple.
Disconnect the reservoir hose at the brake and clutch reservoir.
Plug the hose.
Remove the 2 suction accumulator bolts and position the suction accumulator aside.
Remove the clip and disconnect the hydraulic line.
Remove the retaining clip from the clutch pedal pin.
Remove the 2 clutch master cylinder bolts, then disconnect the clutch master cylinder from the clutch pedal.
To install, tighten to 10 Nm (7 ft. lbs.) .
Remove the clutch master cylinder from the vehicle.
Remove the reservoir hose from the clutch master cylinder.
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
Install new hose clamps on the reservoir hose.
Refill the brake and clutch reservoir with the specified fluid.
Bleed the clutch hydraulic system.
Ordered the replacement today. Did via Amazon as $101 was not a bad price for the OEM part. Coming from Tasca Ford, and they I think are a sponsor on one of the forums somewhere.
Got something for my 17 year old whose more limber than me to do next week, lol.
7/24/16 | 07:11 PM
She'll be back on the road Soon(tm).
